brake issues vauxhall vectra

Thunderbird_2

in2deep wrote: »

This not an ABS/electrical issue, the brake is binding and wearing out the pads on one wheel (NSF)....Correct..???????

Correct, calm down :beer: We're all posting here trying to give our thoughts to help the OP solve their problem as cheap as possible :A

If you re-read my post above, you should notice I didn't dismiss the "Flexible pipes collapsing internally" theory at all,

I have strong doubts that it will be the ABS system is causing the problem. You mentioned that the noise can happen for 4/5 seconds and then nothing till 100 yards later when it happens again. When it happens again after 100 yeards, does it because you used the brakes, or just out of nothing?

If it happens after 100 yards after using the brakes, then the collapsing flexible brake hoses theory get stronger, but, if it happens out of nothing, then, the flexible hoses collapsing internally theory gets weeken alot!. The ABS sensor on that wheel or the other wheel should be suspected.

I am telling my thoughts on the matter so that the right conclusion is reached.

If the OP replies and says "Yes, I get the noise again after 100 yards when after braking" then, the collapsing brake pipes might be causing that wheel to slow down significantly more than the other three wheels to a degree that the ABS system tries to prevent this from happen, hence, the noise?!!!

But, if the OP repies by saying "No, I get the noise after a 100 yards without braking at all" Then, it is the ABS playing up, as you should expect the suspected collapsed pipes to be back to normal by then.

I had a car before when one wheel's brake pads ( yes, it was the NSF) were wearing out excessively and it turn out that ther was air on the other 3 wheels and bleeding the system solved the problem.

The OP needs to perform an" Emergency STOP " and see if that NSF wheel locks or the ABS kicks in or anything else, by the way, if you are going to do the emergency stop, please do it soon after using the brakes to see if the suspected collapsed pipes are holding the brake fluid from returning on that wheel. If they do, you should either have the wheel locked due to the harsh braking or you may feel the ABS kicking in or you may have a locked wheel with the same noise you hear on your ipod ( Yes please, have your ipod plugged in ) Or you might experience something different all together!

There is very unlikely scenario where the other three flexible pipes have collapsed internally in a way causing the braking efforts to be significantly more on the NSF pads resulting in them wearing out much quicker than the others! But it is UNLIKELY!


Another question to the OP, if brake up a traffic lights or something, do you feel the car locked in position as if you are touching the brake pedal, or does the car roll back or forward like nothing stoping the car from rolling forward or backwards?

Do the rear brake discs look rusty by the way? By visual inspection from looking underneath the car?

Please keep us updated about any progress in solving this issue.

P.S, In fairness, it might be cheaper (alot cheaper) to replace the flexible pipes first than any ABS component to be replaced) Plus, it will keep some happy in this forum! But investigating these things yourself ( I meant your lucky husband) should be easy and cheap enough to at least know the right direction to go.

geekgirl

Thunderbird wrote: »

Hi

I read through all your posts and the way you are describing that "noise" is suggesting the ABS sensor is not happy for some reason. To support this theory, you mentioned "crackling noise of the ipod" which you used to hear before they replaced the ABS sensor ( Second hand one) on that wheel, but, you didn't mention if you still hear the crackling now! Do you still hear it when the noise happen now? No I no longer get the ipod crackling noise.

I have strong doubts that it will be the ABS system is causing the problem. You mentioned that the noise can happen for 4/5 seconds and then nothing till 100 yards later when it happens again. When it happens again after 100 yards, does it happen because you used the brakes, or just out of nothing? Just by itself without pressing the brakes at all.

If it happens after 100 yards after using the brakes, then the collapsing flexible brake hoses theory gets stronger, but, if it happens out of nothing, then, the flexible hoses collapsing internally theory gets weeken alot!. The ABS sensor on that wheel or the other wheels should be suspected.

The ABS sensors are monitoring the rotational speed on each wheel by looking at/facing a a small disc with teeth on the back of the brake discs( The ABS rings).
These teeth might have some flakes of rust which can confuse the ABS sensors, resulting in erratic behaviour of the braking system.

Does the ABS light on the dashboard comes on when you switch the ignition on before you start the engine? Does the light go when you start the engine? No at no time has there been an ABS light.

I can't remember if they ( the ABS rings) are replaced with the brake discs or not, but, it is worth cleaning these.

If you still have a problem, ask your husband in this lovely weather to check the ABS sensor on each wheel by using a multimeter ( If he doesn't have one, he can buy one either from the RANGE shop for £3.99 or from BOYS if you have one close for £4.99 or your local ALDI if they have some left from previous offers) He must set the multimeter to read ohms. Removing one wheel at a time, unpluging the sensors cable and test its resistance. All the sensors need to give virtually the same reading. If one sensor is giving significant different reading, then it is faulty and need to be replace. Some sensors lose their original resistance to a certain degree that will cause problems with the brakes but not bad enough to cause the light on the dash to come on.

Don't forget to ask your husband to check for any loose wiring, insecure relays or fuses related to the ABS that might be causing the erratic noise of the brakes!

It is fairly common to have problems with the ABS sensors passenger side due to frequent holes and bumps on the road when you drive on the left hand lane. Just a theory!lol

If all fails, check http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/ for more help! Been to that website and posted for help. I have had a couple of replies but not as many or as in depth as here.

Good luck and keeps us updated!

Thanks lots for this in depth reply. I will get onto this as soon as OH has some free time.
Thanks again.

geekgirl

geekgirl wrote: »

The problem was now slightly worse in that I would brake and the pedal would go down but get slightly stuck half way down then I would have to press it harder to go the rest of the way.

OK I am going to try and explain this part of the problem in a little more depth as it may shed more light on the matter.

I press the brake pedal down and it goes a little way normally. Then it gives some resistance, I then press it down harder and it goes through the resistance.
It feels like it does when you are using a handdrill to drill through soft metal in that you press it down, it goes through with resistance then goes through quickly as it comes through the other side.

If that makes any sense at all then thanks, if not you may be better to ignore my rambling.

Just trying to make the problem more clear.

I really appreciate everyones time they are putting into this as no where else would I get this much expertice and time.

Thanks.

Thunderbird_2

geekgirl wrote: »

I press the brake pedal down and it goes a little way normally. Then it gives some resistance, I then press it down harder and it goes through the resistance.
It feels like it does when you are using a handdrill to drill through soft metal in that you press it down, it goes through with resistance then goes through quickly as it comes through the other side.

Short answer will be: Your ABS is playing up! You need to investigate this. It is very likely to be due to a faulty sensor.

Regarding the "no abs light" whatsoever, did you have an MOT done since you owned the car? Sometimes, the ABS light on the dashboard blew up and later, should a fault developes, you will have no idea about it! Do yo have a Haynes manual for your car? If not, it is worth investing in one of these. You get it either from ebay or halfords.

Did you buy the car recently? Sometimes, some people, take the ABS light off the dashborad when they want to sell the car or to try to pass an MOT test to hide a fault with the system.


Some questions are still waiting for an answer as you might have not noticed them in post#35 as the "Flexible brake pipes collapsing" theory might still be valid untill you check the things mentioned in post#35 or you replace them!lol

Keep us updated.

geekgirl

Thunderbird wrote: »

Hi

I read through all your posts and the way you are describing that "noise" is suggesting the ABS sensor is not happy for some reason. To support this theory, you mentioned "crackling noise of the ipod" which you used to hear before they replaced the ABS sensor ( Second hand one) on that wheel,

It wasn't just the sensor that got replaced on the wheel it was the abs unit.

Cheers.

geekgirl

Thunderbird wrote: »

Short answer will be: Your ABS is playing up! You need to investigate this. It is very likely to be due to a faulty sensor.

Regarding the "no abs light" whatsoever, did you have an MOT done since you owned the car? Sometimes, the ABS light on the dashboard blew up and later, should a fault developes, you will have no idea about it! Do yo have a Haynes manual for your car? If not, it is worth investing in one of these. You get it either from ebay or halfords. Yes we have had 2 MOT's since we have had the car and we have it serviced at the same time. I think what I meant to say is I haven't seen any unusual lights on the dash, various lights come on when I turn on the ignition, all lights go off when I start up. What does an abs light look like? Sorry you are dealing with a complete numpty here!

Did you buy the car recently? Sometimes, some people, take the ABS light off the dashboard when they want to sell the car or to try to pass an MOT test to hide a fault with the system. As Above


Some questions are still waiting for an answer as you might have not noticed them in post#35 as the "Flexible brake pipes collapsing" theory might still be valid untill you check the things mentioned in post#35 or you replace them!lol

Keep us updated.

OH is going to check out the sensors and see what they look like, he is going to get the multimeter you mentioned earlier. I will repost when I know more.

Cheers.

geekgirl

Thunderbird wrote: »

Correct, calm down :beer: We're all posting here trying to give our thoughts to help the OP solve their problem as cheap as possible :A Thanks.

Another question to the OP, if brake up a traffic lights or something, do you feel the car locked in position as if you are touching the brake pedal,No or does the car roll back or forward like nothing stoping the car from rolling forward or backwards? Yes if I didn't have the handbrake on or foot pedal the car would roll.

Do the rear brake discs look rusty by the way? By visual inspection from looking underneath the car? Still waiting for OH to have a look.

Sorry I missed out the above questions. Will update as soon as I know some answers.

Thunderbird_2

Hi again

I think you need to perform an" Emergency STOP " and see if that NSF wheel locks or the ABS kicks in or anything else, by the way, if you are going to do the emergency stop, please do it soon after using the brakes to see if the suspected collapsed pipes are holding the brake fluid from returning on that wheel. If they do, you should either have the wheel locked due to the harsh braking or you may feel the ABS kicking in or you may have a locked wheel with the same noise you hear on your ipod ( Yes please, have your ipod plugged in ) Or you might experience something different all together!

There is very unlikely scenario where the other three flexible pipes have collapsed internally in a way causing the braking efforts to be significantly more on the NSF pads resulting in them wearing out much quicker than the others! But it is UNLIKELY!

Trying to help, you might not have the answer to these now, but, we will be waiting to see the mysterious issue resolved!

You mentioned something interesting, they replace the ABS sensor on that wheel plus ABS main unit, how much did they charge for this?

The ABS dashboard light will usually be lit ABS letters or, sometimes, a skidding car, for example:





Edit: I have just seen your post above! I think we might be safe to dismiss the collapsing flexible brake pipes theory now! Or not?! I will leave this decision to in2deep to help me with.

Keep us updated!

geekgirl

Thunderbird wrote: »

Hi again

I think you need to perform an" Emergency STOP " and see if that NSF wheel locks or the ABS kicks in or anything else, by the way, if you are going to do the emergency stop, please do it soon after using the brakes to see if the suspected collapsed pipes are holding the brake fluid from returning on that wheel. If they do, you should either have the wheel locked due to the harsh braking or you may feel the ABS kicking in or you may have a locked wheel with the same noise you hear on your ipod ( Yes please, have your ipod plugged in ) Or you might experience something different all together!
I did a very weedy emergency stop. I think I should get OH to do a real impressive one! I was going about 15 miles an hour after using brakes to slow to that speed. Nothing happened at all apart from coming to a stop. I noticed nothing else.

There is very unlikely scenario where the other three flexible pipes have collapsed internally in a way causing the braking efforts to be significantly more on the NSF pads resulting in them wearing out much quicker than the others! But it is UNLIKELY!

Trying to help, you might not have the answer to these now, but, we will be waiting to see the mysterious issue resolved!

You mentioned something interesting, they replace the ABS sensor on that wheel plus ABS main unit, how much did they charge for this? They only replaced the ABS main unit not the sensors at all. I bought a guaranteed secondhand ABS main unit for £75 and the guy fitted it for £70 ish pounds. He then said because the problem hadn't gone away it must be a faulty part. But I think he just didn't know any more.

The ABS dashboard light will usually be lit ABS letters or, sometimes, a skidding car, for example: Yes I have a lovely little red ABS light that shows when I turn the ignition on and it goes off when I start the car up. Funny how I have taken no notice of these lights particularly. I just notice if they go whilst driving.





Edit: I have just seen your post above! I think we might be safe to dismiss the collapsing flexible brake pipes theory now! Or not?! I will leave this decision to in2deep to help me with.

Keep us updated!

Thanks again. All waiting on OH for other tests. He is back working now even though his finger isn't completely healed. Problem with being self employed you don't get sick pay! He probably won't be back from work till much later but he has said he will do these tests as soon as he has the time. Good man!

in2deep_2

(in a Lloyd grossman voice)

Lets look at the evidence.

New brake pads fitted,
pistons greased,
New ABS fitted,
plus all fluids,
new brake pads,
New caliper fitted,
new brake pads.

Two things are a little odd the 'crackling' and the hard spot when you press the brake.

To the OP did this just start all of a sudden especialy the hard/soft pedal.??
How did you first notice this problem.

Thunderbird i wasnt getting shirty,;)

I was in the trade many years and it annoys the hell out of me when garages always suspect the most expensive things first.(and change them)
As a rule in this situation i always use to change the cheapest things first and work up.Hence my dismay that 3 garages still dont seem to have looked into the flexi pipe issue.