uPVC door lock mechanism broken!

cyclonebri1

The old ones are the best, but not 4 years old.:rotfl:

WoodySenior

The key jammed in the euro style lock last night too late to do anything about it. Took it all apart this morning and the other key works OK on the interior side but still cant get the original key out. Reassembled it back to front as the lock is a 40/40 and the top set of sliders work OK but the bottom set will not move. Is this something to do with the lock operating arm only operating the cam one way only? I live in France and the DIY shops either do not open on a Sunday or only for a few hours in the morning and are quite a distance away so it will have to wait till the morning before I can get a new lock. What is concerning me is that even with the new lock fitted the slider mechanism will still not work. Any ideas or comments as too what I may have done wrong. If the lock had been odd i.e. 35/40 and not a 40/40 then obviously it would only be able to assemble it one way. No marking on the lock, that I can see, to show the front or back face.

I am just about to go out and refit it the original way round to see if that gets the sliders to work.

katcris

When our front door is locked from the inside and the key is still in the lock we are able to unlock it from the outside. This happened before and we got the barrel changed. Do we need a new door or would changing the barrel again sort it? We have been told not to leave the key in the back as this damages the mechanism???

Myser

katcris wrote: »

When our front door is locked from the inside and the key is still in the lock we are able to unlock it from the outside. This happened before and we got the barrel changed. Do we need a new door or would changing the barrel again sort it? We have been told not to leave the key in the back as this damages the mechanism???

Could be a badly cut key or a faulty barrel. You do not need a new door!

MathewJ

WoodySenior wrote: »

The key jammed in the euro style lock last night too late to do anything about it. Took it all apart this morning and the other key works OK on the interior side but still cant get the original key out. Reassembled it back to front as the lock is a 40/40 and the top set of sliders work OK but the bottom set will not move. Is this something to do with the lock operating arm only operating the cam one way only? I live in France and the DIY shops either do not open on a Sunday or only for a few hours in the morning and are quite a distance away so it will have to wait till the morning before I can get a new lock. What is concerning me is that even with the new lock fitted the slider mechanism will still not work. Any ideas or comments as too what I may have done wrong. If the lock had been odd i.e. 35/40 and not a 40/40 then obviously it would only be able to assemble it one way. No marking on the lock, that I can see, to show the front or back face.

I am just about to go out and refit it the original way round to see if that gets the sliders to work.

Key retaining/cant get key out issues often mean the pins/lock are wearing out - or your key has been damaged.

There are only a few euro cylinders that have a 'twin cam' allowing both keys either side to be left in the lock and it will still work.
Cisa are the most common cylinder manufacturer to offer this 'works with key in other side' function. But that's not on all of their models.
If the key is fine and the cylinder is ok then the most common problem is the multipoint locking gearbox not reaching it's 'lock' position which allows you to then 'lock' the cylinder cam/throw the deadbolt.

Check if you can lock the system with the door open (not in the frame but with the door open) if it deadlocks locks correctly without it being in the frame then you just need to adjust the keeps, the top and bottom shoot bolts are the most common causes (uPVC doors warp and bend with sunlight and age - the keeps in the door frame no longer line up correctly and need adjusting, they prevent the gearbox allowing the cylinder to throw the bolt)
If it still refuses to throw the deadbolt then your gearbox might have failed. Swap the gearbox ASAP - if it fails when locked, it's a painful job/cost to fix. Gearboxes are available for approx 90% of the most common multipoint locking systems. Not a simple DIY job - so if you are unsure get a registered Master Locksmith to do this.
A 40/40 cylinder will NOT work a 35/45 door..... cylinder locks are available in lots of combinations, 80mm length can be 30/50, 35/45, 40/40 etc.

dvdrdl

just be careful choosing a locksmith, make sure you get a local one, my relative was recently shafted by a 'national' firm... Key*cough*tek
https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/4647067=

WoodySenior

Thank you Mathew for that info. but I had managed to sort it myself in the end. I removed the whole strip and what had happened was I had removed one of the sliding bolt fixing screws by mistake when first removing the actual lock and it had dropped down. I then slackened off the lock/handle assembly and pushed it back up into position and re-fixed the screw put the whole lot back with the new lock and voila we were back to normal. The new barell I purchased from the local hardware store (fork handle style shop) for 19€ the close by B & Q type store for the same thing 26€.

MathewJ

WoodySenior wrote: »

Thank you Mathew for that info. but I had managed to sort it myself in the end. I removed the whole strip and what had happened was I had removed one of the sliding bolt fixing screws by mistake when first removing the actual lock and it had dropped down. I then slackened off the lock/handle assembly and pushed it back up into position and re-fixed the screw put the whole lot back with the new lock and voila we were back to normal. The new barell I purchased from the local hardware store (fork handle style shop) for 19€ the close by B & Q type store for the same thing 26€.

No probs for advice - glad you got it sorted, just make sure your cylinder does not stick out by more than 5mm on the outside and you've got a proper anti snap cylinder.

They are the same price as most sheds (BandQ etc) but they exceed all current British Standard and insurance requirements. Look for TS007 ratings if you need more info!

Im not allowed to offer free Master Locksmith Assn, AA Approved Auto locksmith, Met police, Yale Support centre, Union Super Centre, Mul-TLock authorised, ABS Avocet Elite dealer, 35 years bricks and mortar locksmith advice.... because I don't know what the forum is for......

I'm sure the MSE pretend police will think this is spam... as they are experts on security, and have much more claim to fame, afterall 1000 posts mean they are experts on security and they are happy to take the blame if you get burgled... zzzzzzz Oh they have not replied.... Accountable, real, dependable = true value :A

hearts

Hi as with others here I tried my backdoor this morning and couldn't get it open.Key doesn't seem to move at all. Iv'e changed the barrels on other doors before and know it's simple. My problem is how do I get the door open to change them?.
I'm assuming I have to remove the door from the hinges but not sure what's involved in this.
The hinges are similar to these.
https://www.upvc-hardware.co.uk/hinges/flag-upvc-door-hinges


Are these easy to come off? Anything I should know before I start/try.
Thanks

meanbean

I seem to have a lock issue not yet mentioned, and would be grateful of any advice. My upvc window just does not lock. The key turns, the handle turns, it just doesn't lock. What can I do myself to fix this so I have a locking window? Tia