Air Source Heat Pumps

samtheman1k

richardc1983 wrote: »

Samtheman what does it state exactly in your manual.

In my manual doesnt state anything about the outdoor unit being cleaned.

It actually says do not clean as you may get electrocuted! :rotfl:

samtheman1k

thechippy wrote: »

I advise 6 monthly intervals, as it’s just not worth paying £600+ for a compressor change for the sake of £60-80 per year.

If you think you can find someone in London to do two services a year for £80 then I'm calling you a liar! :rotfl:

samtheman1k

paceinternet wrote: »

Below is an extract from some Mitsubishi documentation which you may find helpfull:

1-4. PRECAUTIONS FOR SALT PROOF TYPE "-BS" MODEL
Although "-BS" model has been designed to be resistant to salt damage, observe the following precautions to maintain the
performance of the unit.
1. Avoid installing the uint in a location where it will be exposed directly to seawater or sea breeze.
2. If the cover panel may become covered with salt, be sure to install the unit in a location where the salt will be washed away by
rainwater. (If a sunshade is installed, rainwater may not clean the panel.)
3. To ensure that water does not collect in the base of the outdoor unit, make sure that the base is level, not at angle. Water
collecting in the base of the outdoor unit could cause rust.
4. If the unit is installed in a coastal area, clean the unit with water regularly to remove any salt build-up.
5. If the unit is damaged during installation or maintenance, be sure to repair it.
6. Be sure to check the condition of the unit regularly.
7. Be sure to install the unit in a location with good drainage.

There is nothing in there that can't be done by a competent DIYer, it is just keeping the unit clean and removing any build up of salt. That is a perfectly sensible 'servicing' routine that doesn't involve refrigerants, pressurising etc.

Kev_Dale

Oh knowledgable forum.......

VPA's? What are they? What's the benefit? And what's the alternative (buffer tanks?) and their disadvantages?

I ask as on comparing the NIBE system v's the Mitsi Ecodan, the Ecodan is under 50% of the price (installed) of the NIBE. One difference may be that the NIBE has a VPA where as the Ecodan has 'only' a buffer tank?
:beer: in advance.

Further reasearch has shown the VPA is a thermal store. so, thermal stores v buffer tanks anyone?

stevehead

I have previously touched upon this in earlier posts, but as this is the first full winter with my superb heat pumps it's becoming more of an issue.
The 2 mitsubishi's I have do a fine job of keeping the house warm, and by nature they do not produce condensation in themselves. I remember in the old days of open gas fires such as the lethal 'Superser' the condensation was produced by the fire itself. I thought those days were long gone.

GSH - It transpires that slapping a radiator under every window did a fine job of keeping the internal pane temperature ideally >16C. This eliminates downdraughts caused by falling cooled air and the associated condesation. I guess it did a fine job of warming the neighbourhood too with a bigger delta T on the pane.

The 30-odd year old aluminum DG in the north aspect of my house has GOT TO GO; now the radiators are off they're soaking daily, and there is a perceptable downdraught under the bay windows.

So yes, my heating bill is really very cheap, but it's exposed a problem with my windows that I'm gonna have to sort out.

richardc1983

stevehead wrote: »

there is a perceptable downdraught under the bay windows.
quote]

Steve

TO get rid of draughts as temp measure tuck the curtains behind the radiators or lift up onto the window sills.

Our double glazing is about 7yrs old and we have no condensation unless we have done loads of cooking/washing/drying.

richardc1983

samtheman1k wrote: »

If you think you can find someone in London to do two services a year for £80 then I'm calling you a liar! :rotfl:

Now now, you have to understand that prices in London (cost of living in general) is higher than up north.

So you would expect to pay more down in London and wouldnt think anything of it.

eugeneg

I have a recently installed 11KW NIBE Fighter 2005/VVM300 and am surprised to see them consuming three times the energy that my old gas boiler did. Is 100 KWhrs a day reasonable for a 3 bed detached house in South East England ?

richardc1983

Seems an awful lot to be using... is it an inverter or fixed speed?

Are you sure its not 10kwhrs?

eugeneg

Two speed fan in the Fighter 2005. Technical specs are at
http://www.nibe.co.uk/NIBE-Heat-Pumps/Airwater-heat-pumps/Air-to-Water-Heat-Pumps/FIGHTER-2005/
And the VVM 300 details are at
http://www.nibe.co.uk/NIBE-Heat-Pumps/Airwater-heat-pumps/Air-to-Water-Heat-Pumps/VVM-300/

Definitely averaging 108 KWhrs a day over the last 2 weeks. Largely due to both the 2KW and 4KW immersion heaters kicking in so frequently I think. That does include my lighting and fridge/freezer too, but still seems more than I was hoping for or expected.

The supplier tells me that this is normal and over a year the ambient temperature will see that I am spending less than I did before I received the beast, but that's an aweful lot to catch up in the Summer.