Smart Meter HELP

MattMattMattUK

My gut feeling is the old meter was under-reporting and the new meter is likely closer to accurate. That combined with horrific heating using panel heaters likely explains things.

Netexporter

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81974263#Comment_81974263

Pretty much my thoughts, too.

I would add that, IMO, UW are more of a pyramid selling scheme than an energy supplier. You may get more help to find a more suitable tariff elsewhere. The resistive heating is going to be expensive, whatever, but perhaps a tariff like Octopus Cosy, which gives several cheaper periods, throughout the day, would cut your costs, in the shorter term.

Longer term, I'd be seriously looking at a heat pump, either A2W or A2A, to cut your energy consumption and stay warm.

victor2

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81974154#Comment_81974154

It sounds more like a "test" to convice a customer that there is nothing wrong with their meter - and tell them it's slightly under-reading to stop them harassing the supplier. A "make it look like you've done something meaningful" test.

Reed_Richards

It would only take a few seconds to Google the main oven power rating based on make/model…

That could be true if you could identify both. My oven is a built-in. It says Hotpoint on the front but there is nothing I can see to indicate the model. Then if it's a double oven, like mine is, will Google tell you how much power each of the two ovens draws?

MWT

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81974384#Comment_81974384

… actually, yes, the specs for most double ovens will give you separate ratings for each, and even on built-ins there is often a well hidden information plate on the edge of the frame or door.

Since the oven is usually on its own breaker it is a good choice for a quick test as you don't need to worry about other devices on the circuit.

MattMattMattUK

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81974344#Comment_81974344

I agree, if the house is as well insulated as the OP seems to believe then a heat pump would be ideal, though a shame it lacks plumbing as that means that A2W would be expensive and disruptive to install and A2A has it's own downsides.

With regards to testing the OP really needs to do what was recommended earlier in the thread and run their own tests of known vs recorded usage, a fan heater is usually best for that, with everything else turned off, a creep test and a background load test. I suspect that their background usage is higher than they realise as well, especially with heat recovery ventilation.

MWT

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81974404#Comment_81974404

With regards to testing the OP really needs to do what was recommended earlier in the thread and run their own tests of known vs recorded usage, a fan heater is usually best for that, with everything else turned off, a creep test and a background load test. I suspect that their background usage is higher than they realise as well, especially with heat recovery ventilation.

One clear advantage of doing the test that way is that in the process of unplugging everything else on the selected circuit they may find a rogue device that is causing the issues when they can't get down to zero use before testing with the fan-heater…

MattMattMattUK

Yep, or they unplug everything, but there is still a draw, because something is hard wired somewhere on an incorrect circuit, at which point they need to start flipping switches on their consumer unit until it drops to zero. If their house is the kind I suspect it might have been, it might have positive input ventilation, which in winter pre-heats the air, that can easily consume a good chunk as baseline power, that with heat recovery etc., a previous under reporting meter and having replaced storage heaters with panel heaters could easily explain their uncomfortably high usage.

Scot_39

The OP needs to as above do some investigative work - maybe now using current IHD power draw or gain access to his smart meter energy draw per 1/2 hr (do double for power) across a typical now spring / summers day with minimal and night when heating might still be needed at low levels and possible app data for historic winters day and night.

Does anyone know if UW have an app or high res portal charts ?

Some suppliers do, sone dont (EON next are selective about showing 1/2 hourly in tgeir app - they dont for me - iirc to those on half houtrly tariffs, not e7 e10 register billed etc)

In Feb OP was using

1049kWh/28 = 37kWh per day day rate

They run 5 of 6 panel rads - I suspect not all to 13C targets ? - that can range from 500W to 2kW - say 1250W ave for upto 6 hrs every evening - worst case 37.5kWh - but realistically with thermostat limiting suspect quite a bit less.

And

413 kWh/28 = 15kWh per day night rate

Not unbelievable for HW tank if feeds shower and say 1-1.5 hrs of their 5 live fed radiators.

it would be interesting to see the 1/2hrly energy data for a typical day then.

Given a gas tdcv of 11500kWh = 30kWh over 365 dsys - lkkely to bd dpkit more like 45-50kWh winter and 10-15kWh summer and that allows 2700kWh for electric = 7kWh per day on top. Their really not silly numbers for Feb for a standard hone - especially a bungalow - but maybe they are for what sounds like a sort of "passivehaus" variant construction design.

But surely then the home (or hot wster etc if immersion assuming no leaks underground rtc) would be very hot cf target if down to panel heaters.

As above other simple sanity checks - would be things like ihd base load checks dsy and night if possible (is something unexpected drawing energy almost continuously) and again vs the the timing of known high draw devices (panel ras, hw immersion, electric showers etc).

I run c20-25 W and my FF adds 70W when compressor cooling - others run 100s W day and night.

Things like old halogen night lights stuck on - we used to have two 500W pirs for garden / drive - now leds - or kit in garage or loft space etc etc.

Then can do things like approx known load tests (a3 kW kettle rated at 230V might draw 15% more power in a high voltage location at not atypical in some areas 245v plus) or circuit by circuit at CU or device by device at sockets or on off switches once identified an area of concern.

Matt99Islands

Thank you very much.

Apologies for being a bit dense here. Could someone respond with just the thread of tests people have suggested.

I will then respond with all the data etc. I have also found historical radiator kWh usage and it does seem like the old meter might have been under recording but really unsure if the kWh on the app for Elnur is correct / I am understanding it right.