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How should I tackle this please
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billiepiper14 said:Oh thanks that’s made my day 😊
I was wondering about that, there’s definitely gaps under the tiles. I got out as much silicone as I could but it’s possible a tiny bit got pushed back into the voids. So I would pack the gaps with silicone first and when I can see they are loaded, start with the bead ?I don’t understand what you mean by choose your tool shape and bevel (utter novice sorry 😂) ive got the little square gadget someone recommended. Do you mean how much end i cut off the silicone tube ? Thanks in advanceDon't worry about bits of old sili sitting under that gap. The only old bits you need to worry about are any that might get pulled out during the job and mess it up!By 'tool' I mean the rubber 'Fugi'. Please do get one - it'll transform the job, both the ease and success.Ok, since there are wee gaps that i'd want to ensure are filled, I would do this job it two passes, but right away so they blend.First, I'd cut only the smallest amount off the nozzle, and at a 45o angle. This will give you a small bead. Start at one end, press the nozzle at - ooh - around 60+ degrees, almost right angle, so the sili is ejected firmly out into the corner. Press and push away from you, not pulling towards you like that guy has done. Squeeze slowly and in control, and judge the size of bead being issued - your aim here is to get a small bead, and it being pressed firmly into any gap.Then cut an inch off the nozzle to give a larger bead. Go over the original bead, and add this extra layer. After you've done a foot or so, test your Fugi and see that there's enough sili there. If there isn't, go back and add a tiny bit more, and then stick with that amount as you do the rest. The more upright you hold the gun, the larger the bead.Just get this bit done - don't hang around. Just do it! It'll take around a minute, that's all.Then Fugi it.Fugiing: Do some dry test runs to get used to how to hold it. Make sure you can get into a comfy position to run it all the way around. Get used to corners - don't worry about that vertical sili bead - you'll be going over it. For the corners, approach until you reach the corner, and then you'll need to angle the edge forward a wee bit as your knuckle contacts the wall to allow the tool to fully reach the corner. When you are a bead's-thickness away, angle the tool into the corner so it sits at 45o to it until you are fully in, and then start pulling it away along the next wall immediately getting it back to right angles. Practice this to see what it feels like.Hold the tool firmly but gently. Check how much pressure you need to apply so it makes full contact with both surfaces, but don't press hard. Just 'firm'.If you find the sili is building up too much on the blade so you need to wipe it, or if you find you haven't added enough sili so it's leaving holidays, this is how to stop and start; Keep moving forward, whilst you release the pressing-down from the tool, and then lift it away. Clean the blade/add extra sili.Then go back a good 6+" of your good beading. Gently position the tool there, but don't press so it makes contact. Now start moving it along towards the new bit, and as you move it steadily, press down to the usual level so it lands imperceptibly on the good beading, and continues on its way as tho' it never left. You should find the restart will be unnoticeable.Deep breath. This will work. It will look amazing - far better than the old beading. You'll be better than that 'pro'.It needs confidence. Don't dilly-dally. Do as many dry runs as you need, until you understand what the method is.Then apply the sili, have your wiping cloths ready, and go for it.I hate having sili build up in a messy and wasteful way that needs the tool removing a number of times, so tend to apply too little sili if anything. I then just complete the job, and go back and add an extra bit over the holidays, and then run the sili over these parts again - they should blend in perfectly.Remember, to remove the tool, release the pressure as it still moves forward.To restart, go back a good few inches to the good beading, position the tool but don't press, get it moving, and then steadily add the required pressure until it gently makes moving contact.`If you have deep grout lines, you may wish to use the extra part that keeps the tool level - the guy has it in that video. I usually don't bother; the tool does follow the grout lines, and this leaves matching lines in the sili bead, but it's neat and looks ok. And, it ensures the sili is pressed firmly onto the grout, so makes a better seal.Ok, and show us your results - we need a good laugh on here...
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Don’t overthink it. Watch a video on applying silicone with a Fugi. Just do it.0
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Wow thanks so much , not sure I will sleep tonight because of the pressure 😊
seriously though just remembering I caulked all my skirtings with a fugi. They weren’t perfect but it’s given me a good idea of what’s to be done. Will defo post results, it’s a team effort 😂On a mission to be mortgage free asap
Sept 2023 65,000, June 2024 61,9920
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