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How should I tackle this please

billiepiper14
billiepiper14 Posts: 84 Forumite
Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Combo Breaker
Hi

Please can anyone advise what to do with this loose shower tray sealant ? Should I seal over the top of the loose patch of the sealant just at the point where it’s lifted ? Or should I pull the current strip completely off which I’m nervous about doing incase I don’t replace it well. As you can see from the photo some dirt has got behind the strip where it’s lifted but for the most part the strip is well fixed
On a mission to be mortgage free asap
Sept 2023 65,000, June 2024 61,992
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Comments

  • WIAWSNB
    WIAWSNB Posts: 1,091 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 18 August at 7:32PM
    It needs removing completely before redoing, thoroughly cleaning, and drying. This is not as hard as you think, but hand it to someone who knows what they are doing if you aren't happy trying it.
    The secret? A high quality silicone, and a Fugi-style rubber tool. It'll give you a finish that'll make you chuckle with delight. :smile:
    Give it a bash. 

  • Emmia
    Emmia Posts: 5,831 Forumite
    Fifth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    edited 18 August at 11:24PM
    It needs removing and re-doing. 

    I recommend (you'll need a sealant gun) this stuff
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-785n-sanitary-sealant-white-310ml/800fg

    Cheaper sealants are available, but this seems very mould resistant 

    If you don't have a fugi, or are nervous about a clean line, you can cheat, I've used two strips of masking tape along the area to be resealed (once I'd thoroughly cleaned out the old stuff) to get a clean line (remove before it's set though). Ideally you'll do it in a single line, but if not you can carefully smooth with a wet finger when it's freshly applied.

    *I'll warn you that getting the masking tape straight is a pain though.
  • billiepiper14
    billiepiper14 Posts: 84 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    On a mission to be mortgage free asap
    Sept 2023 65,000, June 2024 61,992
  • Emmia
    Emmia Posts: 5,831 Forumite
    Fifth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    edited 19 August at 10:15AM
  • Their website says it’s mould resistant. I’ve used BT1 in the past and that’s been very good.

    I really would recommend the Fugi tools.  Emmia’s obviously more skilled than me because I’ve never managed to get a clean enough line with masking tape and my finger. They are a game changer.

    Watch a YouTube video on how to use them and maybe practice on some scrap wood or something before you start.

    The other very useful tip a tiler gave me was baby wipes (or similar). Brilliant for cleaning up any excess and wiping your tools between sections.
  • Emmia
    Emmia Posts: 5,831 Forumite
    Fifth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    edited 19 August at 10:17AM
    Their website says it’s mould resistant. I’ve used BT1 in the past and that’s been very good.

    I really would recommend the Fugi tools.  Emmia’s obviously more skilled than me because I’ve never managed to get a clean enough line with masking tape and my finger. They are a game changer.

    Watch a YouTube video on how to use them and maybe practice on some scrap wood or something before you start.

    The other very useful tip a tiler gave me was baby wipes (or similar). Brilliant for cleaning up any excess and wiping your tools between sections.
    I've never managed a good finish with a fugi, particularly on a long run.

    Baby wipes and kitchen towels a plenty are a must - especially if you want to put your tools down during the job.
  • WIAWSNB
    WIAWSNB Posts: 1,091 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 19 August at 10:21AM

    That is overkill. :-)
    It would certainly do a cracking job, and would likely both outperform and outlast silicone sealant. But my concern is how easy it is to 'tool' to get the desired finish. I just don't know. It could be ok, or it may be too sticky, just like StixAll is - great stuff, but what a mess if you get it wrong! 
    I'd play safe with silicone, and please do get the tools. You can get cheap versions for only a few squid, but they still work very well. Seriously - these are a game changer. Choose a straight bevel shape of ample thickness - it'll look great, and be properly sealed at the edges. 
    Please do not use masking tape or a finger. :-)
  • WIAWSNB said:

    That is overkill. :-)
    It would certainly do a cracking job, and would likely both outperform and outlast silicone sealant. But my concern is how easy it is to 'tool' to get the desired finish. I just don't know. It could be ok, or it may be too sticky, just like StixAll is - great stuff, but what a mess if you get it wrong! 
    I'd play safe with silicone, and please do get the tools. You can get cheap versions for only a few squid, but they still work very well. Seriously - these are a game changer. Choose a straight bevel shape of ample thickness - it'll look great, and be properly sealed at the edges. 
    Please do not use masking tape or a finger. :-)
    It is overkill really. BT1 would be better if you can swap it. Dow mould resistant is also very good.
  • billiepiper14
    billiepiper14 Posts: 84 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    So is the CT1 suitable please ? I opened it some months ago to do a few jobs, so I can’t swap it. I can certainly buy a tool though, if this stuff is up to the job. Thanks so much for the helpful replies 
    On a mission to be mortgage free asap
    Sept 2023 65,000, June 2024 61,992
  • WIAWSNB
    WIAWSNB Posts: 1,091 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    So is the CT1 suitable please ? I opened it some months ago to do a few jobs, so I can’t swap it. I can certainly buy a tool though, if this stuff is up to the job. Thanks so much for the helpful replies 
    What I would do is buy the tools first. Then either find a suitable test area - which would be where two flats surfaces meet at a right angle, or just a short length of your shower, and try it out.
    Squeeze out a pencil-sized bead along the joint, say a foot long, and then run the tool along it, pressing to make good, firm contact with both surfaces, but not pressing hard. See how it works. 
    The tool will have the excess sealant built up on it - how easy is it to wipe off? The finished bead should be a neat and crisp bevel - is it? And - importantly - there shouldn't be any remaining smears of sealant on either surface - is there?
    If that test works, go for it. 
    First, of course, all traces of the existing sealant needs removing, and the surfaces made clean and dry.
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