Is this a fair quote for a porch build?

dllive

Thanks.

Ive found another 5.5kW heater

Not sure what may be the better choiuce, if any?

https://www.heatershop.co.uk/dexpro-delux-inline-instant-water-heater-3-5kw-digital-control?cat=3952

https://electricalwholesalers4u.com/products/ferroli-mini-5-5kw-water-heater-dff-kam5-5s?variant=44703795413238

dllive

Ive spoken with the builders. Ive tried to mockup something visual:

Basically, they will brick up the gap to the right of the chimney shoulder and run the chimney shoulder roof in same direction as porch roof (rather than sideways as it currently does):

He said there would also be some flashing down the side.

Does that sound sensible?

WIAWSNB

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81970140#Comment_81970140

They'll both do the job.

5.5kW will likely require 6mm cable, unless the CU is nearby, in which case 4mm might do, but your sparky will advise. 3.5 should be fine with even 2.5mm but you'd also need to run this past yer sparky - and the heater mustn't have a selectable higher rating.

One recommends a spray-head tap, I understand because this will restrict the flow and allow full heating performance. Alternatively, I think you could fit a good quality isolating valve on the way to the tap, and partially throttle it there - the hot tap won't gush, but it will be nicely warm. (The unit itself will likely have isolating valves fitted too?)

WIAWSNB

He's going to reslate the chimney haunch? Coool.

It does seem to me you have a good builder there.

dllive

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81971607#Comment_81971607

Thanks, yes, theyre really good and helpful.

I just thought it was an odd solution. Baring in mind I am not a builder in any way, shape or form - I would have extended the roof to the side of the chimney so as not to have that void. This would have also given me a tiny bit of extra floor space. However, obviously Im not a builder, so happy to be do whatever they thinks best.

Section62

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81971623#Comment_81971623

I think the builder's choice is a bad one, your idea is much better and was what I was talking about much earlier in the thread.

To some it might appear trivial, but getting this detail right is important for keeping damp out of the junction between the chimney/porch. It will be very difficult to achieve that the way the builder is proposing. Extending the porch roof over the side shoulder of the chimney would keep the damp out naturally, and would be easier to achieve.

If it is going to work, most of the new slate should be covered by lead flashing… so why bother doing all the work to put slates in if very little of them will be seen?

stuart45

It would also be a simple job to raise the chimney a bit so the slates could be at the same height and pitch all round.

dllive

Hi guys

First fix of electrics and plumbing is done.

Regards plastering, the builder said he will do curved corners etc to fit in with the 'cottage feel'.

Looking at the door, it might be nice to have the wooden lintel exposed, and perhaps some of the stone around the door.

Do you think the lintel is in a good enough state to expose, or perhaps I should get a fascia wooden lintel instead?

I have found this one, but I dont think it included the underside: https://www.cottage-beams.com/products/oak-door-lintel-fascia?variant=43263363940483

If the existing lintel is worth exposing (given the wood worm damage etc) then, although not as impressive as the fascia wooden lintel, at least its the actual lintel.

Regards exposing some of the stone, as you can see its bits of stone, brick, wood, all sorts. Its not yet quite clear what state its in until the rest of the old lime render is removed.

Something like this is what I have in mind:

Given the state of whats there, is it worth exposing?

Thanks

FreeBear

A bit late now, but it would have been a good idea to sleeve the copper pipes where they go through the wall - 20mm conduit is just the right size for 15mm copper. If cement mortar or gypsum plaster is in contact with copper, it will eventually corrode through. Might take 15 years before leaks start to appear.

And on the subject of plaster - Presumably, you'll be using a pure lime plaster ?

dllive

Hmm, the plumber did specifically say he would sleeve the pipework. Ill speak with him.

Yes, lime plaster will be used. :)