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Window fitting

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13

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  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,118 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Atomix said:
    The window on the right is the replacement
    As long as there isn't any bricks sitting on top of the frame, it should be OK - You have a fairly substantial wooden beam spanning the windows, so no concerns about the roof loading.
    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • Atomix
    Atomix Posts: 370 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    So from a legal perspective, is the law on my side with this one? If i choose to only pay for the good window?
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,807 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Atomix said:
    Im tempted to do it myself - take my time. Spirit level eveything. I have done plenty of diy stuff before so have a reasonable competence level 
    If you're practical and take your time there's no reason why you can't do a good job. It can help if you fix a plumb line from the top down to the bottom. When you lay the brick at the jamb it saves you having to check it for plumb with the level. The less you have to knock a corner, pier or jamb into plumb the better. When have to knock the bricks about it tends to throw the ones  lower down out.
    I've always taken out the brickwork further back than needed when putting new windows in. Some firms I've worked for think it's a waste of materials, but you get a better job when it's run in. Toothing is a slight plane of weakness, so it makes for a stronger job having it away from the jamb of an opening door or window.
    Because it looks like you're using the old bricks you could acid clean the ends of the ones showing at the jambs before you lay them.
  • Atomix
    Atomix Posts: 370 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Thanks - yes I have a mortar rake - hopefully will help
  • Atomix
    Atomix Posts: 370 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Would you mix a 3-1 - rather than a 4-1 to get a stronger bond?
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,118 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Use a weaker mix. Perhaps going to 5:1 or even 6:1 if the bricks are very soft.
    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,807 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    I agree with FreeBear. The mortar should be weaker than the bricks. Use building sand and plasticizer. If you want to colour match the mortar, stick some of the original mortar in brick acid and you'll be left with a sample of the sand.
  • Atomix
    Atomix Posts: 370 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    The bricks are hard/engineering type bricks
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,118 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    I'd still go with a weak mix of 5:1.
    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,807 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Atomix said:
    The bricks are hard/engineering type bricks
    They look like Carlton red rustics, which are quite a hard facing brick. NHBC guidance is 5.5/1 sand/cement in sheltered areas and 4.5/1 in exposed areas.
    Both mixes are with added plasticizer.
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