Car buying from a dealership

Peco141

prowla said:

Peco141 said:

Goudy said:

DrEskimo said:

Don’t get dragged into only discussing the finance implications. Keep the focus on the list price of the car. 

Yes, I wouldn't get drawn in to the monthly payments sales people wave in your face but there's a bit more to it than just invoice price.
They will often stretch the term longer to make them look lower and the longer they are, the more interest you pay.

Focus on the cost to change.
That includes any finance interest.

How much will it all cost you to get out of one car into the next as a total cost.

You need to keep that in mind, it's no good getting a grand off list if they are charging you 14% interest.
You'll be worse off than paying full list and something like 4.5%.

It can all get a bit complicated, especially if you are visiting different dealers and getting offered different deals, but keeping that cost to change in mind should help.

Generally speaking, the lower the invoice + the higher the trade in for your old car + the lowest interest rate will work out the cheapest.

If you are buying new, generally the interest rate is set (if you meet their conditions) but different manufacturers offer different rates. Some might give 0% if you can put down 50% deposit/trade in.
Also worth considering is, can you borrow that cheaper elsewhere, like the bank or building society. 

Next up would be trade in value.
Take your time and try a few "test" deals of likely purchases to see what they will allow.
There's no trick to it and you don't need to beat about the bush. If you think it's worth more tell them or ask them to do better. 

We're often too polite so say phrases like "can you", these have simple answers the dealers know they can use. like "no". Think about phrasing these questions to them carefully. Keep it pleasant though, smile a lot and be "open" to what they reply, no need to get the hump or defensive, that won't help.
 
Also check out the car buying sites, even if it's just to show the dealer what it could be worth if you sold it via one of those.

They may or may not be wriggle room on the invoice price.
With new, it'll often be advertised as discounted, if it is discounted, but there are schemes that give discounts for various professions and sometimes membership to certain clubs or organisations, so it's worth checking before hand.
There are some companies on the internet that discount cars, like Drive the Deal. Get a quote and show the dealer.

With used, the three points are usually more variable. 
Interest rates are usually a bit higher.
And screen price has a set "profit" build in which you want to try and eat into, so it's worth trying your best on that point.
Trade in's can be a bit more variable too, they might want to remarket yours themselves, so the same thing applies.

Many thanks for taking the time to write this detailed response.

I've not gone back to the dealer just yet but plan to by the end of the week. If the car is still available.

At that point I'll need to ask for clarification of where I take the car should anything go wrong.  If I'm satisfied with the options I'll then go on to ask what he can do about the 'on the road price' of the car which currently sits at £41,995.00.  For example can he get it closer to 40k.

I'm in two minds whether to ask if there would be any 'dealer contribution' if I sought a cash deal (no finance) or whether I go straight for a finance deal in order to get him to reduce the 'on the road' price as suggested by a couple of replies in this thread.

Either way I won't commit to a purchase until the following criteria has been met:

• Reassurance of where I can go if something were to go wrong (I can't be travelling for 5 hours to deal with issues)
• A significant reduction in the on road price (closer to 40k)
  
• The free delivery charge (buyer incentive) previously suggested by salesman is confirmed
• And most importantly, whether I can pay off the full "on the road amount" (not the Total amount payable on the finance quotation) and therefore settle the PCP contract early (within the first few weeks) without incurring any early settlement fees.
  

The last point might be the most challenging to get confirmation on.

£2k off £42k doesn't seem very much.

You think I can aim for more?  How much do you think could be acheived?

XRS200

Is it new or used?

sheslookinhot

Peco141 said:

Goudy said:

DrEskimo said:

Don’t get dragged into only discussing the finance implications. Keep the focus on the list price of the car. 

Yes, I wouldn't get drawn in to the monthly payments sales people wave in your face but there's a bit more to it than just invoice price.
They will often stretch the term longer to make them look lower and the longer they are, the more interest you pay.

Focus on the cost to change.
That includes any finance interest.

How much will it all cost you to get out of one car into the next as a total cost.

You need to keep that in mind, it's no good getting a grand off list if they are charging you 14% interest.
You'll be worse off than paying full list and something like 4.5%.

It can all get a bit complicated, especially if you are visiting different dealers and getting offered different deals, but keeping that cost to change in mind should help.

Generally speaking, the lower the invoice + the higher the trade in for your old car + the lowest interest rate will work out the cheapest.

If you are buying new, generally the interest rate is set (if you meet their conditions) but different manufacturers offer different rates. Some might give 0% if you can put down 50% deposit/trade in.
Also worth considering is, can you borrow that cheaper elsewhere, like the bank or building society. 

Next up would be trade in value.
Take your time and try a few "test" deals of likely purchases to see what they will allow.
There's no trick to it and you don't need to beat about the bush. If you think it's worth more tell them or ask them to do better. 

We're often too polite so say phrases like "can you", these have simple answers the dealers know they can use. like "no". Think about phrasing these questions to them carefully. Keep it pleasant though, smile a lot and be "open" to what they reply, no need to get the hump or defensive, that won't help.
 
Also check out the car buying sites, even if it's just to show the dealer what it could be worth if you sold it via one of those.

They may or may not be wriggle room on the invoice price.
With new, it'll often be advertised as discounted, if it is discounted, but there are schemes that give discounts for various professions and sometimes membership to certain clubs or organisations, so it's worth checking before hand.
There are some companies on the internet that discount cars, like Drive the Deal. Get a quote and show the dealer.

With used, the three points are usually more variable. 
Interest rates are usually a bit higher.
And screen price has a set "profit" build in which you want to try and eat into, so it's worth trying your best on that point.
Trade in's can be a bit more variable too, they might want to remarket yours themselves, so the same thing applies.

Many thanks for taking the time to write this detailed response.

I've not gone back to the dealer just yet but plan to by the end of the week. If the car is still available.

At that point I'll need to ask for clarification of where I take the car should anything go wrong.  If I'm satisfied with the options I'll then go on to ask what he can do about the 'on the road price' of the car which currently sits at £41,995.00.  For example can he get it closer to 40k.

I'm in two minds whether to ask if there would be any 'dealer contribution' if I sought a cash deal (no finance) or whether I go straight for a finance deal in order to get him to reduce the 'on the road' price as suggested by a couple of replies in this thread.

Either way I won't commit to a purchase until the following criteria has been met:

• Reassurance of where I can go if something were to go wrong (I can't be travelling for 5 hours to deal with issues)
• A significant reduction in the on road price (closer to 40k)
  
• The free delivery charge (buyer incentive) previously suggested by salesman is confirmed
• And most importantly, whether I can pay off the full "on the road amount" (not the Total amount payable on the finance quotation) and therefore settle the PCP contract early (within the first few weeks) without incurring any early settlement fees.
  

The last point might be the most challenging to get confirmation on.

The last point is an entitlement in legislation.

Goudy

sheslookinhot said:

Peco141 said:

Goudy said:

DrEskimo said:

Don’t get dragged into only discussing the finance implications. Keep the focus on the list price of the car. 

Yes, I wouldn't get drawn in to the monthly payments sales people wave in your face but there's a bit more to it than just invoice price.
They will often stretch the term longer to make them look lower and the longer they are, the more interest you pay.

Focus on the cost to change.
That includes any finance interest.

How much will it all cost you to get out of one car into the next as a total cost.

You need to keep that in mind, it's no good getting a grand off list if they are charging you 14% interest.
You'll be worse off than paying full list and something like 4.5%.

It can all get a bit complicated, especially if you are visiting different dealers and getting offered different deals, but keeping that cost to change in mind should help.

Generally speaking, the lower the invoice + the higher the trade in for your old car + the lowest interest rate will work out the cheapest.

If you are buying new, generally the interest rate is set (if you meet their conditions) but different manufacturers offer different rates. Some might give 0% if you can put down 50% deposit/trade in.
Also worth considering is, can you borrow that cheaper elsewhere, like the bank or building society. 

Next up would be trade in value.
Take your time and try a few "test" deals of likely purchases to see what they will allow.
There's no trick to it and you don't need to beat about the bush. If you think it's worth more tell them or ask them to do better. 

We're often too polite so say phrases like "can you", these have simple answers the dealers know they can use. like "no". Think about phrasing these questions to them carefully. Keep it pleasant though, smile a lot and be "open" to what they reply, no need to get the hump or defensive, that won't help.
 
Also check out the car buying sites, even if it's just to show the dealer what it could be worth if you sold it via one of those.

They may or may not be wriggle room on the invoice price.
With new, it'll often be advertised as discounted, if it is discounted, but there are schemes that give discounts for various professions and sometimes membership to certain clubs or organisations, so it's worth checking before hand.
There are some companies on the internet that discount cars, like Drive the Deal. Get a quote and show the dealer.

With used, the three points are usually more variable. 
Interest rates are usually a bit higher.
And screen price has a set "profit" build in which you want to try and eat into, so it's worth trying your best on that point.
Trade in's can be a bit more variable too, they might want to remarket yours themselves, so the same thing applies.

Many thanks for taking the time to write this detailed response.

I've not gone back to the dealer just yet but plan to by the end of the week. If the car is still available.

At that point I'll need to ask for clarification of where I take the car should anything go wrong.  If I'm satisfied with the options I'll then go on to ask what he can do about the 'on the road price' of the car which currently sits at £41,995.00.  For example can he get it closer to 40k.

I'm in two minds whether to ask if there would be any 'dealer contribution' if I sought a cash deal (no finance) or whether I go straight for a finance deal in order to get him to reduce the 'on the road' price as suggested by a couple of replies in this thread.

Either way I won't commit to a purchase until the following criteria has been met:

• Reassurance of where I can go if something were to go wrong (I can't be travelling for 5 hours to deal with issues)
• A significant reduction in the on road price (closer to 40k)
  
• The free delivery charge (buyer incentive) previously suggested by salesman is confirmed
• And most importantly, whether I can pay off the full "on the road amount" (not the Total amount payable on the finance quotation) and therefore settle the PCP contract early (within the first few weeks) without incurring any early settlement fees.
  

The last point might be the most challenging to get confirmation on.

The last point is an entitlement in legislation.

Yes, the consumer credit act.
You can settle early and depending on the amount borrowed, the interest chargeable is set in law.

For large amounts it's 56 days interest. 
(I think it's less days for amounts under £10k??)

So if you bought a £40k car with a £4k contribution, you financed £36k.

If you then phoned up the finance company on the morning of collection to settle the finance they can only charge you 56 days interest on that £36k by law.

56 days interest is obviously far less than the £4k contribution but this is just an example, you will need to look at the figures being offered on your deal.

sheslookinhot

Goudy said:

sheslookinhot said:

Peco141 said:

Goudy said:

DrEskimo said:

Don’t get dragged into only discussing the finance implications. Keep the focus on the list price of the car. 

Yes, I wouldn't get drawn in to the monthly payments sales people wave in your face but there's a bit more to it than just invoice price.
They will often stretch the term longer to make them look lower and the longer they are, the more interest you pay.

Focus on the cost to change.
That includes any finance interest.

How much will it all cost you to get out of one car into the next as a total cost.

You need to keep that in mind, it's no good getting a grand off list if they are charging you 14% interest.
You'll be worse off than paying full list and something like 4.5%.

It can all get a bit complicated, especially if you are visiting different dealers and getting offered different deals, but keeping that cost to change in mind should help.

Generally speaking, the lower the invoice + the higher the trade in for your old car + the lowest interest rate will work out the cheapest.

If you are buying new, generally the interest rate is set (if you meet their conditions) but different manufacturers offer different rates. Some might give 0% if you can put down 50% deposit/trade in.
Also worth considering is, can you borrow that cheaper elsewhere, like the bank or building society. 

Next up would be trade in value.
Take your time and try a few "test" deals of likely purchases to see what they will allow.
There's no trick to it and you don't need to beat about the bush. If you think it's worth more tell them or ask them to do better. 

We're often too polite so say phrases like "can you", these have simple answers the dealers know they can use. like "no". Think about phrasing these questions to them carefully. Keep it pleasant though, smile a lot and be "open" to what they reply, no need to get the hump or defensive, that won't help.
 
Also check out the car buying sites, even if it's just to show the dealer what it could be worth if you sold it via one of those.

They may or may not be wriggle room on the invoice price.
With new, it'll often be advertised as discounted, if it is discounted, but there are schemes that give discounts for various professions and sometimes membership to certain clubs or organisations, so it's worth checking before hand.
There are some companies on the internet that discount cars, like Drive the Deal. Get a quote and show the dealer.

With used, the three points are usually more variable. 
Interest rates are usually a bit higher.
And screen price has a set "profit" build in which you want to try and eat into, so it's worth trying your best on that point.
Trade in's can be a bit more variable too, they might want to remarket yours themselves, so the same thing applies.

Many thanks for taking the time to write this detailed response.

I've not gone back to the dealer just yet but plan to by the end of the week. If the car is still available.

At that point I'll need to ask for clarification of where I take the car should anything go wrong.  If I'm satisfied with the options I'll then go on to ask what he can do about the 'on the road price' of the car which currently sits at £41,995.00.  For example can he get it closer to 40k.

I'm in two minds whether to ask if there would be any 'dealer contribution' if I sought a cash deal (no finance) or whether I go straight for a finance deal in order to get him to reduce the 'on the road' price as suggested by a couple of replies in this thread.

Either way I won't commit to a purchase until the following criteria has been met:

• Reassurance of where I can go if something were to go wrong (I can't be travelling for 5 hours to deal with issues)
• A significant reduction in the on road price (closer to 40k)
  
• The free delivery charge (buyer incentive) previously suggested by salesman is confirmed
• And most importantly, whether I can pay off the full "on the road amount" (not the Total amount payable on the finance quotation) and therefore settle the PCP contract early (within the first few weeks) without incurring any early settlement fees.
  

The last point might be the most challenging to get confirmation on.

The last point is an entitlement in legislation.

Yes, the consumer credit act.
You can settle early and depending on the amount borrowed, the interest chargeable is set in law.

For large amounts it's 56 days interest. 
(I think it's less days for amounts under £10k??)

So if you bought a £40k car with a £4k contribution, you financed £36k.

If you then phoned up the finance company on the morning of collection to settle the finance they can only charge you 56 days interest on that £36k by law.

56 days interest is obviously far less than the £4k contribution but this is just an example, you will need to look at the figures being offered on your deal.

I think if you cancel the credit agreement within 14 days of signing the PCP, you only pay up to 14 days interest.

Goudy

sheslookinhot said:

Goudy said:

sheslookinhot said:

Peco141 said:

Goudy said:

DrEskimo said:

Don’t get dragged into only discussing the finance implications. Keep the focus on the list price of the car. 

Yes, I wouldn't get drawn in to the monthly payments sales people wave in your face but there's a bit more to it than just invoice price.
They will often stretch the term longer to make them look lower and the longer they are, the more interest you pay.

Focus on the cost to change.
That includes any finance interest.

How much will it all cost you to get out of one car into the next as a total cost.

You need to keep that in mind, it's no good getting a grand off list if they are charging you 14% interest.
You'll be worse off than paying full list and something like 4.5%.

It can all get a bit complicated, especially if you are visiting different dealers and getting offered different deals, but keeping that cost to change in mind should help.

Generally speaking, the lower the invoice + the higher the trade in for your old car + the lowest interest rate will work out the cheapest.

If you are buying new, generally the interest rate is set (if you meet their conditions) but different manufacturers offer different rates. Some might give 0% if you can put down 50% deposit/trade in.
Also worth considering is, can you borrow that cheaper elsewhere, like the bank or building society. 

Next up would be trade in value.
Take your time and try a few "test" deals of likely purchases to see what they will allow.
There's no trick to it and you don't need to beat about the bush. If you think it's worth more tell them or ask them to do better. 

We're often too polite so say phrases like "can you", these have simple answers the dealers know they can use. like "no". Think about phrasing these questions to them carefully. Keep it pleasant though, smile a lot and be "open" to what they reply, no need to get the hump or defensive, that won't help.
 
Also check out the car buying sites, even if it's just to show the dealer what it could be worth if you sold it via one of those.

They may or may not be wriggle room on the invoice price.
With new, it'll often be advertised as discounted, if it is discounted, but there are schemes that give discounts for various professions and sometimes membership to certain clubs or organisations, so it's worth checking before hand.
There are some companies on the internet that discount cars, like Drive the Deal. Get a quote and show the dealer.

With used, the three points are usually more variable. 
Interest rates are usually a bit higher.
And screen price has a set "profit" build in which you want to try and eat into, so it's worth trying your best on that point.
Trade in's can be a bit more variable too, they might want to remarket yours themselves, so the same thing applies.

Many thanks for taking the time to write this detailed response.

I've not gone back to the dealer just yet but plan to by the end of the week. If the car is still available.

At that point I'll need to ask for clarification of where I take the car should anything go wrong.  If I'm satisfied with the options I'll then go on to ask what he can do about the 'on the road price' of the car which currently sits at £41,995.00.  For example can he get it closer to 40k.

I'm in two minds whether to ask if there would be any 'dealer contribution' if I sought a cash deal (no finance) or whether I go straight for a finance deal in order to get him to reduce the 'on the road' price as suggested by a couple of replies in this thread.

Either way I won't commit to a purchase until the following criteria has been met:

• Reassurance of where I can go if something were to go wrong (I can't be travelling for 5 hours to deal with issues)
• A significant reduction in the on road price (closer to 40k)
  
• The free delivery charge (buyer incentive) previously suggested by salesman is confirmed
• And most importantly, whether I can pay off the full "on the road amount" (not the Total amount payable on the finance quotation) and therefore settle the PCP contract early (within the first few weeks) without incurring any early settlement fees.
  

The last point might be the most challenging to get confirmation on.

The last point is an entitlement in legislation.

Yes, the consumer credit act.
You can settle early and depending on the amount borrowed, the interest chargeable is set in law.

For large amounts it's 56 days interest. 
(I think it's less days for amounts under £10k??)

So if you bought a £40k car with a £4k contribution, you financed £36k.

If you then phoned up the finance company on the morning of collection to settle the finance they can only charge you 56 days interest on that £36k by law.

56 days interest is obviously far less than the £4k contribution but this is just an example, you will need to look at the figures being offered on your deal.

I think if you cancel the credit agreement within 14 days of signing the PCP, you only pay up to 14 days interest.

Yes but your invoice is likely to change.

You are no longer settling the finance after you have bought the car, but cancelling the finance before you have bought the car.

That finance came benefits, no finance, no benefits.

It's just a cash sale now and you'll only get whatever benefits that comes with.

You are no longer signing up to the deal that has the benefits, so they won't give you them.

Peco141

XRS200 said:

Is it new or used?

Used 2023 plate. Done 8k miles.

Peco141

Goudy said:

sheslookinhot said:

Peco141 said:

Goudy said:

DrEskimo said:

Don’t get dragged into only discussing the finance implications. Keep the focus on the list price of the car. 

Yes, I wouldn't get drawn in to the monthly payments sales people wave in your face but there's a bit more to it than just invoice price.
They will often stretch the term longer to make them look lower and the longer they are, the more interest you pay.

Focus on the cost to change.
That includes any finance interest.

How much will it all cost you to get out of one car into the next as a total cost.

You need to keep that in mind, it's no good getting a grand off list if they are charging you 14% interest.
You'll be worse off than paying full list and something like 4.5%.

It can all get a bit complicated, especially if you are visiting different dealers and getting offered different deals, but keeping that cost to change in mind should help.

Generally speaking, the lower the invoice + the higher the trade in for your old car + the lowest interest rate will work out the cheapest.

If you are buying new, generally the interest rate is set (if you meet their conditions) but different manufacturers offer different rates. Some might give 0% if you can put down 50% deposit/trade in.
Also worth considering is, can you borrow that cheaper elsewhere, like the bank or building society. 

Next up would be trade in value.
Take your time and try a few "test" deals of likely purchases to see what they will allow.
There's no trick to it and you don't need to beat about the bush. If you think it's worth more tell them or ask them to do better. 

We're often too polite so say phrases like "can you", these have simple answers the dealers know they can use. like "no". Think about phrasing these questions to them carefully. Keep it pleasant though, smile a lot and be "open" to what they reply, no need to get the hump or defensive, that won't help.
 
Also check out the car buying sites, even if it's just to show the dealer what it could be worth if you sold it via one of those.

They may or may not be wriggle room on the invoice price.
With new, it'll often be advertised as discounted, if it is discounted, but there are schemes that give discounts for various professions and sometimes membership to certain clubs or organisations, so it's worth checking before hand.
There are some companies on the internet that discount cars, like Drive the Deal. Get a quote and show the dealer.

With used, the three points are usually more variable. 
Interest rates are usually a bit higher.
And screen price has a set "profit" build in which you want to try and eat into, so it's worth trying your best on that point.
Trade in's can be a bit more variable too, they might want to remarket yours themselves, so the same thing applies.

Many thanks for taking the time to write this detailed response.

I've not gone back to the dealer just yet but plan to by the end of the week. If the car is still available.

At that point I'll need to ask for clarification of where I take the car should anything go wrong.  If I'm satisfied with the options I'll then go on to ask what he can do about the 'on the road price' of the car which currently sits at £41,995.00.  For example can he get it closer to 40k.

I'm in two minds whether to ask if there would be any 'dealer contribution' if I sought a cash deal (no finance) or whether I go straight for a finance deal in order to get him to reduce the 'on the road' price as suggested by a couple of replies in this thread.

Either way I won't commit to a purchase until the following criteria has been met:

• Reassurance of where I can go if something were to go wrong (I can't be travelling for 5 hours to deal with issues)
• A significant reduction in the on road price (closer to 40k)
  
• The free delivery charge (buyer incentive) previously suggested by salesman is confirmed
• And most importantly, whether I can pay off the full "on the road amount" (not the Total amount payable on the finance quotation) and therefore settle the PCP contract early (within the first few weeks) without incurring any early settlement fees.
  

The last point might be the most challenging to get confirmation on.

The last point is an entitlement in legislation.

Yes, the consumer credit act.
You can settle early and depending on the amount borrowed, the interest chargeable is set in law.

For large amounts it's 56 days interest. 
(I think it's less days for amounts under £10k??)

So if you bought a £40k car with a £4k contribution, you financed £36k.

If you then phoned up the finance company on the morning of collection to settle the finance they can only charge you 56 days interest on that £36k by law.

56 days interest is obviously far less than the £4k contribution but this is just an example, you will need to look at the figures being offered on your deal.

Many thanks for this.

prowla

Peco141 said:

prowla said:

Peco141 said:

Goudy said:

DrEskimo said:

Don’t get dragged into only discussing the finance implications. Keep the focus on the list price of the car. 

Yes, I wouldn't get drawn in to the monthly payments sales people wave in your face but there's a bit more to it than just invoice price.
They will often stretch the term longer to make them look lower and the longer they are, the more interest you pay.

Focus on the cost to change.
That includes any finance interest.

How much will it all cost you to get out of one car into the next as a total cost.

You need to keep that in mind, it's no good getting a grand off list if they are charging you 14% interest.
You'll be worse off than paying full list and something like 4.5%.

It can all get a bit complicated, especially if you are visiting different dealers and getting offered different deals, but keeping that cost to change in mind should help.

Generally speaking, the lower the invoice + the higher the trade in for your old car + the lowest interest rate will work out the cheapest.

If you are buying new, generally the interest rate is set (if you meet their conditions) but different manufacturers offer different rates. Some might give 0% if you can put down 50% deposit/trade in.
Also worth considering is, can you borrow that cheaper elsewhere, like the bank or building society. 

Next up would be trade in value.
Take your time and try a few "test" deals of likely purchases to see what they will allow.
There's no trick to it and you don't need to beat about the bush. If you think it's worth more tell them or ask them to do better. 

We're often too polite so say phrases like "can you", these have simple answers the dealers know they can use. like "no". Think about phrasing these questions to them carefully. Keep it pleasant though, smile a lot and be "open" to what they reply, no need to get the hump or defensive, that won't help.
 
Also check out the car buying sites, even if it's just to show the dealer what it could be worth if you sold it via one of those.

They may or may not be wriggle room on the invoice price.
With new, it'll often be advertised as discounted, if it is discounted, but there are schemes that give discounts for various professions and sometimes membership to certain clubs or organisations, so it's worth checking before hand.
There are some companies on the internet that discount cars, like Drive the Deal. Get a quote and show the dealer.

With used, the three points are usually more variable. 
Interest rates are usually a bit higher.
And screen price has a set "profit" build in which you want to try and eat into, so it's worth trying your best on that point.
Trade in's can be a bit more variable too, they might want to remarket yours themselves, so the same thing applies.

Many thanks for taking the time to write this detailed response.

I've not gone back to the dealer just yet but plan to by the end of the week. If the car is still available.

At that point I'll need to ask for clarification of where I take the car should anything go wrong.  If I'm satisfied with the options I'll then go on to ask what he can do about the 'on the road price' of the car which currently sits at £41,995.00.  For example can he get it closer to 40k.

I'm in two minds whether to ask if there would be any 'dealer contribution' if I sought a cash deal (no finance) or whether I go straight for a finance deal in order to get him to reduce the 'on the road' price as suggested by a couple of replies in this thread.

Either way I won't commit to a purchase until the following criteria has been met:

• Reassurance of where I can go if something were to go wrong (I can't be travelling for 5 hours to deal with issues)
• A significant reduction in the on road price (closer to 40k)
  
• The free delivery charge (buyer incentive) previously suggested by salesman is confirmed
• And most importantly, whether I can pay off the full "on the road amount" (not the Total amount payable on the finance quotation) and therefore settle the PCP contract early (within the first few weeks) without incurring any early settlement fees.
  

The last point might be the most challenging to get confirmation on.

£2k off £42k doesn't seem very much.

You think I can aim for more?  How much do you think could be acheived?

I think going in and asking if they'd maybe like to give you up to £2k off but you'll probably buy it anyway) is different to saying you'll buy the car for £5k off.

XRS200

Peco141 said:

XRS200 said:

Is it new or used?

Used 2023 plate. Done 8k miles.

WhatCar says you could expect £2229 off a new one with a list price if £41995.