Scaffold Board Shelves – Best way to mount?

paperclap

Hi all,

Got a couple of scaffold board shelves I'd like to put up. They're the standard board depth of ~22cm. 3.5cm thick. They'll span a with of ~160cm. They'll be within an alcove – so, left, right and back walls.

First option is to simply use brackets. Thinking either three or four per shelf.
https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/olde-forge-steel-scaffold-board-shelf-bracket-type-2-245-x-108-x-40mm-black-powder-coated-iron-621167

Second option is to screw and glue battens to the side and back walls. Route out batten-thickness recesses in the scaffold board. Then, slide on.

First option is certainly easier, but unsure on the weight those things can realistically hold.

Second option would obviously mean they're "floating" shelves, which is quite nice. But realistically, how easily will those boards slide on to those battens? I could of course route out an extra few millimetres, to there is some tolerance. But if the board is slightly cupped, twisted, bowed, whatever, I wonder if I'll start regretting this route! Anyone done this with scaffold boards? And if so, what batten size did you use (don't want to route out too much of the board obviously).

Thanks!

ThisIsWeird

Either of these options should/will work.

The brackets are far less work, and it should present no mysteries to you. 

How strong it'll be will come down to how secure a fixing you can get in your wall - what are they made of?

The brackets will also win by spreading the load on the shelves, and preventing them from sagging. The hidden-batten option may allow the long front edge of the board to gently sag over time.

If you really want 'floating', then a better method might be to anchor steel rods in the wall, protruding out a good 15mm or so - you'd need one every, say, ~600mm-ish. Then to drill matching holes in the shelves, and slide them on. A decent level of accuracy will be required, although if it won't fit easily, you can oversize the holes, and give them a coat of resin or Stixall or similar to make up the difference, after the shelves are in position, and supported the way you want them. Wrapping a snug plastic sleeve - polythene, or similar - around the rods first will prevent them from adhering to the shelves, so you could still (theoretically) pull them off after setting.

(Just an example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heavy-Duty-Concealed-Floating-Invisible-Mantlepieces/dp/B0B9BQR573?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ANJASEKC4HHE3&th=1 If your wall is 'stud', you'd need to catch each one.)

Then there are options such as suspending the shelves from thick hemp rope, chains...

What will go on them? If piled up with books, then you'll likely need gallows brackets or suspension :-)

jonnydeppiwish!

I used the brackets, 2 for 1.2m. Easily held a full le creuset cast iron cooking set with no movement.

paperclap

The walls are brick. Some areas are hard, some are softer.

Would I really expect to see much sag, if any, on 22cm deep, 3.5cm thick scaffold boards? Not discounting the fact that things do sag, but this isn't deep and skinny, nor is it MDF. It's hardwood!

Each will probably have a small pile of books, a little plant, a photo here and there. No real weight, frankly. But, as always, I like to overshoot things... juuuust in case I decide to get super fat and stand on them one day!

ThisIsWeird

paperclap said:

The walls are brick. Some areas are hard, some are softer.
Would I really expect to see much sag, if any, on 22cm deep, 3.5cm thick scaffold boards? Not discounting the fact that things do sag, but this isn't deep and skinny, nor is it MDF. It's hardwood!
Each will probably have a small pile of books, a little plant, a photo here and there. No real weight, frankly. But, as always, I like to overshoot things... juuuust in case I decide to get super fat and stand on them one day!

Are they really hardwood? Most scaffs are soft. But, yes, still very solid.

1.6m is quite a span. If supported only at their ends (which I know you are not entertaining) then it would sag - that's just what timber does. Yes, your batten idea would also support it fully along its length, but only on the back side. It would barely sag with this, and not to any worrying degree, but it likely would still do so along its front edge, to a small degree, over a long period of time!

So, I'm sure your batten idea would be perfectly fine, if a bit tricky to effect - but I know that's your forte

If you like - or would find perfectly acceptable - the black metal bracket solution, then it's a no-brainer. It will work.

Personally, if I were going the 'floating' method, I'd choose the metal bars solution, simply for being easier. I'm not one for routing unless unavoidable :-)

paperclap

You know, you’re right. They’re softwood – European Whitewood!

It’s bizarre. We actually like the aesthetic of the black “band-like” brackets. Adds character, and fits in with the other black features of the room – other handles, wood burner, etc. It’s almost like the world of carpentry and DIY makes you feel like anything less than a hidden fixing is a failure 

But, think we’re going to run with the brackets.

Another thought, do you think 2 would be sufficient?

4 looks too much. 3 poses a problem: We’ve a socket in the centre of the wall, and don’t fancy drilling through it.

ThisIsWeird

Aesthetics is as important as strength
You'd need the end ones positioned to look 'right' - I'm guessing that means a couple of inches in from the ends? Or even at the very ends - I'm not sure. So that suggests to me that one central bracket just won't 'look' sturdy enough, even if ok strength-wise. 
So, I think 4. Look at pics of longer scaffolding shelves - which yours is - and judge the best look. 
Tbh, once stuff is placed on the shelf, all you'll really see are the very short return lips of the brackets.

What finish are you giving them? Are they new or reclaimed?

FreeBear

paperclap said: The walls are brick. Some areas are hard, some are softer.

My walls are brick. A mix of hard burgers, soft reds, and a few cinder blocks thrown in. All good drilling in to brick, but the mortar joints are another story. A soft, friable lime mortar with zero holding power. And sod's law says any hole drilled that is destined to take a load is going to hit a mortar joint !

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-styrene-free-polyester-resin-175ml/9349j is my answer to any dodgy holes

paperclap

ThisIsWeird – absolutely, re the aesthetics! They're reclaimed. Not sure to what extent to take them, really. See a lot of people plane them right back, sand them down, etc... but then, they practically look like new wood again! Think I'll probably just sand them down, enough to take any nibs or wood splinters off. Unsure on the "finish" though. I've never worked with stains, varnishes, etc.

FreeBear – that's a good point. I'll keep that in mind if sod's law comes my way (which no doubt it will!).

Eldi_Dos

You say the walls are brick and that floating shelves appeal, could going with TiW's idea for back of shelf plus sliding dowels fitting into walls at end of shelf give the appearance and strength you want.

If black fits into colour scheme blackboard paint with a little varnish mixed in is worth considering.

the_lunatic_is_in_my_head

paperclap said:

ThisIsWeird – absolutely, re the aesthetics! They're reclaimed. Not sure to what extent to take them, really. See a lot of people plane them right back, sand them down, etc... but then, they practically look like new wood again! Think I'll probably just sand them down, enough to take any nibs or wood splinters off. Unsure on the "finish" though. I've never worked with stains, varnishes, etc.

FreeBear – that's a good point. I'll keep that in mind if sod's law comes my way (which no doubt it will!).

They'll look more authentic with a very light sand with 120 grit*, as you say running through a planer (or attempting to sand them smooth) will just give you a piece of wood without any of the character. 

*If you sand with a higher grit the finish won't absorb into the timber in the same way, no need to go above 120 grit on something like this. 

Finishes vary, there are plenty of wax polishes in various colours which is the easiest to apply, Osmo oils are another option which will be more durable than wax but the finish can be a little flat, you can apply a finishing oil over the top if you prefer most of satin or gloss finish. You can also use wood dyes, the spirit dyes are better IMO, and finish that with a coat clear of wax. 

Varnish sits on top of wood rather than soaking in creating a layer on top and I don't think it looks good on this type of timber, it leaves a sort of plastic looking finish distracting from the rustic nature of the boards. 

If you have a few off cuts best bet is to get some sample sized testers and try a few out to see how they will look. 

There's a lot of these shelves for sale on places like eBay, Etsy, etc and most seem to sell with a wax finish, probably because it's the quickest way to do but the results should be pleasing. 

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/

Have a massive range. 

In terms of brackets you can get alcove brackets

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265173130438

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265157439551

or use the ones you suggest at either end. 160cm is a fair span, you could always look at small discreet corner brackets 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/corner-braces-zinc-plated-25mm-x-25mm-x-16-5mm-10-pack/11529?

spaced 400-600mm apart to pin the back of the shelf to the wall to absorb some of the weight but ultimately it's surprising how much weight a decent wall plug into solid brick or such will hold. 

Not sure if the boards would bow, you could either hope the corner brackets off set the weight or use 4 brackets instead of 3 to avoid the plug, but not sure if it would look odd with them being spaced only around 500mm apart.