Scaffold Board Shelves – Best way to mount?

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  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 17,869 Forumite
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    paperclap said: Plus, the hassle of scribing to three walls!
    You need to scribe a filler panel each end, so look on it as practice for the top :)
    Have scribed a kitchen worktop, and the easiest way is to template it first - Cuts a sheet of 12mm MDF roughly to size, then get some strips of 6mm MDF.trim the strips to fit the wall, then glue/screw them to the 12mm board. One the glue is set, you have a template to trim the final top to.

    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
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    paperclap said:
    Yeah, four brackets would have certainly felt cluttered!

    Absolutely. Scaffold boards for the top would be perfect, but does pose challenges. Would not only mean finding four that aren’t cupped too much, but also joining two boards together, then cutting along it’s length, to get the right depth. Plus, the hassle of scribing to three walls!

    Just leaving these boards here for the sake of storage really. So they ain’t outside  :)

    I joined scaff boards together recently to make a wider board for a unit. I just used 10mm wooden dowels, and dowel pins to pass the locations on to the next board. If, when dry-assembled, the boards weren't perfectly flush, I just drilled out one dowel hole with extra clearance to allow that movement. Then Gorilla glue - the expanding, gap-filling type -around the dowels and along the mating edges.
    All pulled together using a cord tied around, and an inserted screwdriver to tension. 
    G-Clamps to hold each board down flat in relation to each other.
    Anyhoo, it worked.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 17,869 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 29 May 2024 at 11:34AM
    paperclap said:
    Yeah, four brackets would have certainly felt cluttered!

    Absolutely. Scaffold boards for the top would be perfect, but does pose challenges. Would not only mean finding four that aren’t cupped too much, but also joining two boards together, then cutting along it’s length, to get the right depth. Plus, the hassle of scribing to three walls!

    Just leaving these boards here for the sake of storage really. So they ain’t outside  :)

    I joined scaff boards together recently to make a wider board for a unit. I just used 10mm wooden dowels, and dowel pins to pass the locations on to the next board. If, when dry-assembled, the boards weren't perfectly flush, I just drilled out one dowel hole with extra clearance to allow that movement. Then Gorilla glue - the expanding, gap-filling type -around the dowels and along the mating edges.
    A biscuit joiner cutter in a router would have ensured that the two boards would align perfectly. Or use a jig to drill the holes (doesn't take long to make one).

    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • paperclap
    paperclap Posts: 769 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    Yeah, was my thinking. Either I’ll go down the dowel route (but the jig can be fiddly, even when clamped down, I’ve found), or cut out a 6mm slot, and pop some offcuts of 6mm MDF in there… or maybe even 6mm plywood if I can find some!
  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    FreeBear said:
    paperclap said:
    Yeah, four brackets would have certainly felt cluttered!

    Absolutely. Scaffold boards for the top would be perfect, but does pose challenges. Would not only mean finding four that aren’t cupped too much, but also joining two boards together, then cutting along it’s length, to get the right depth. Plus, the hassle of scribing to three walls!

    Just leaving these boards here for the sake of storage really. So they ain’t outside  :)

    I joined scaff boards together recently to make a wider board for a unit. I just used 10mm wooden dowels, and dowel pins to pass the locations on to the next board. If, when dry-assembled, the boards weren't perfectly flush, I just drilled out one dowel hole with extra clearance to allow that movement. Then Gorilla glue - the expanding, gap-filling type -around the dowels and along the mating edges.
    A biscuit joiner cutter in a router would have ensured that the two boards would align perfectly. Or use a jig to drill the holes (doesn't take long to make one).


    Absolutely. But that assumes I could be a'ed.
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