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New radiators - totally baffled!
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Another quick question guys please, I've had a couple of quotes to install the radiators. Some of the plumbers are saying there's no need for new pipes as they'll just put an elbow on and divert the existing pipes to suit the larger radiators. Now to me this doesn't sound right at all, but as you guys can no doubt tell from my posts, I know nothing about this kinda stuff
. Is what they are saying the correct process?
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You are correct to be suspicious.
Incentives. Most plumbers want the job to be easy. And quick. And profitable v any quote.
They (with rare exceptions) don't much care if its neat. Or right. Or the slightly extra effort but better way to do X.
Or future proof for lower flow resistance and lower temperatures later (heat pumps). Or adding isolators around serviceable components added. In and out. Bish bash bosh. Bill
Bodging old pipes with elbows and stubby bits to achieve - watertight (today) and functional (today). Is the bar they will be aiming for.
So if you don't want that - you will have to take control and insist on i.e. specify what you want. Or it won't happen.
This is how the world works. Even if the boss comes round and agrees it with you. If on day 2 some other lad shows up they will do whatever the hell they like the way they like. A lot of trades seem to have a personal "way" and to actively resist working to a spec, a diagram, a statement of work - or anything else
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Extending the pipes by putting elbows in saves having to rip up floors and drilling new holes. Putting extra bends in, whilst not the prettiest method, is the quickest & easiest way. e.g.Oh, and use solder fittings like above, not those darned !!!!!! Speedfit things.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
gm0 said:You are correct to be suspicious.
Incentives. Most plumbers want the job to be easy. And quick. And profitable v any quote.
They (with rare exceptions) don't much care if its neat. Or right. Or the slightly extra effort but better way to do X.
Or future proof for lower flow resistance and lower temperatures later (heat pumps). Or adding isolators around serviceable components added. In and out. Bish bash bosh. Bill
Bodging old pipes with elbows and stubby bits to achieve - watertight (today) and functional (today). Is the bar they will be aiming for.
So if you don't want that - you will have to take control and insist on i.e. specify what you want. Or it won't happen.
This is how the world works. Even if the boss comes round and agrees it with you. If on day 2 some other lad shows up they will do whatever the hell they like the way they like. A lot of trades seem to have a personal "way" and to actively resist working to a spec, a diagram, a statement of work - or anything elseFreeBear said:Extending the pipes by putting elbows in saves having to rip up floors and drilling new holes. Putting extra bends in, whilst not the prettiest method, is the quickest & easiest way. e.g.Oh, and use solder fittings like above, not those darned !!!!!! Speedfit things.
I've made it clear to the plumbers there's no way I want external elbows. They're suggesting cutting the floor and adding copper elbows below and extending the distance required via that method. Apparently no soldering required. But from looking at FreeBear's picture, I think I can see at least 2 solder lines.
And how do I future proof these radiators? I've gone for Drayton self balancing valves. I have Tado TRVs on all radiators. Any other recommendations?
PS FreeBear if that's your wall, I have a similar green in my bedroom0 -
I've recently had a new heating system put in. I was given the option of new pipes and all that entails or using existing pipework similar to image above. I chose the latter, it would have been a lot more costly and a lot more disruption to the rest of the house to have new pipework. Either way is acceptable, depends on how important it is to you to how the pipework looks.1
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A1ps said: I've made it clear to the plumbers there's no way I want external elbows. They're suggesting cutting the floor and adding copper elbows below and extending the distance required via that method. Apparently no soldering required. But from looking at FreeBear's picture, I think I can see at least 2 solder lines.
PS FreeBear if that's your wall, I have a similar green in my bedroomIf they are proposing no soldering, they are using compression, Speedfit, or one of the other push/crimp fittings (and those are expensive). Out of the three, compression would be OK, but you'll need two fittings on each leg. A straight coupler, and then a 90° elbow - Acceptable if there is enough space under the floor.A total of 3 90° elbows in that pic - Could reduce it to 2 90° and a 45° which would look a little neater.Solder fittings take a little time to fit, and you have to be careful not to set fire to stuff if using a blowtorch - There are electric soldering irons available, but I suspect few plumbers would use one. You also have to clean the flux off when done so as to avoid corrosion setting in (plumber's flux is acidic). I wipe joints down with a damp cloth with bicarbonate of soda added to the water.And no, that is not my wall. I'm doing dark red woodwork with a light pink on the wall.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
MysteryMe said:I've recently had a new heating system put in. I was given the option of new pipes and all that entails or using existing pipework similar to image above. I chose the latter, it would have been a lot more costly and a lot more disruption to the rest of the house to have new pipework. Either way is acceptable, depends on how important it is to you to how the pipework looks.FreeBear said:A1ps said: I've made it clear to the plumbers there's no way I want external elbows. They're suggesting cutting the floor and adding copper elbows below and extending the distance required via that method. Apparently no soldering required. But from looking at FreeBear's picture, I think I can see at least 2 solder lines.
PS FreeBear if that's your wall, I have a similar green in my bedroomIf they are proposing no soldering, they are using compression, Speedfit, or one of the other push/crimp fittings (and those are expensive). Out of the three, compression would be OK, but you'll need two fittings on each leg. A straight coupler, and then a 90° elbow - Acceptable if there is enough space under the floor.A total of 3 90° elbows in that pic - Could reduce it to 2 90° and a 45° which would look a little neater.Solder fittings take a little time to fit, and you have to be careful not to set fire to stuff if using a blowtorch - There are electric soldering irons available, but I suspect few plumbers would use one. You also have to clean the flux off when done so as to avoid corrosion setting in (plumber's flux is acidic). I wipe joints down with a damp cloth with bicarbonate of soda added to the water.And no, that is not my wall. I'm doing dark red woodwork with a light pink on the wall.
Freebear, I think they were suggesting push crimp methods. They looked under the floor and said they'd do something similar. I'll post up some pics soon showing what I currently have. Apparently the current pipe work is horrific! But that's understandable as the guy who built the house was an absolute cowboy and has cut every corner possible.0 -
A1ps said: Apparently the current pipe work is horrific! But that's understandable as the guy who built the house was an absolute cowboy and has cut every corner possible.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
Wife got back in time for me to borrow her torch so grabbed some pics. I was shocked at just how much of the floor boards have been cut.
The first 2 are from my bedroom. Near impossible to get good pics.
The last 2 are the loft room and much better pics. No doubt what you see in these 2 pics will resemble what's in all the other rooms. To me it looks like the builder has used plastic fixings. If this was an OK method, I'd want copper. I'd also want straight pipes to the rads. Some of the current pipes are slightly angled.
Bedroom:
Loft room:
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