Where is best place to put sockets for washing machine and dish washer?

35har1old

blackstar said:

Thanks all

How about this?

I'll buy two of these

https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-ip66-13a-1-gang-dp-weatherproof-outdoor-switched-socket/35096

And ask the sparky to install them on different circuits and place them under counter in the best possible positions.

Would thus be a decent compromise?

Are those sockets decent enough?

The installation of 2 circuits is overkill and a unessary expense a kitchen ring is perfectly capable of carrying the load the only other radial required is for a electric cooker
The fitting of more than one feed is  dangerous due to the fact someone going to work on the plugs could think they have them isolated as it is normal that there is only one fuse to be removed

ThisIsWeird

Blackstar, perhaps even worth looking at 'modular' or 'grid' switch systems too, as often found in more recent homes. Rather than a scattering of separate switches and sockets, you have have them all on one fascia.
In your case, I guess a light switch, double socket, and two labelled FSUs for these appliances.
Much neater, I think, and I presume they can be customised like this to suit your needs - tho' not sure.

DRP

Some sensible advice on here about the way to do this. 

Black star, your electrician on site will advise on the options, but will only rewire to regs. 

blackstar

35har1old said:

blackstar said:

Does a double socket with a dish washer in one socket and the washing machine in the other have the power in the sockets will be enough?

Overall, the average dishwasher consumes between 1.2kWh and 1.5kWh per load

The average washing machine is 2,100 watts, which is equal to 2.1 kWh

So if we have the washing machine plugged into the double socket and the dishwasher plugged into the other socket is that OK? If not what should we do socket wise?

As they both need to be next to eaxhother as connected to the pipes under sink.

We are getting a full rewire starting today so final chance to make sure things are right. 

what other options are there?

​

If you wire them into a double socket that would mean that cable would be brought up through the worktop this would also  require the removal of the molded plug which might invalidate the warranty.
Plugs should be a minimum off 300mm from edge of sink bowl

Thanks so where else could the isolator switches go?

Risteard

blackstar said:

Does a double socket with a dish washer in one socket and the washing machine in the other have the power in the sockets will be enough?

Overall, the average dishwasher consumes between 1.2kWh and 1.5kWh per load

The average washing machine is 2,100 watts, which is equal to 2.1 kWh

So if we have the washing machine plugged into the double socket and the dishwasher plugged into the other socket is that OK? If not what should we do socket wise?

As they both need to be next to eaxhother as connected to the pipes under sink.

We are getting a full rewire starting today so final chance to make sure things are right. 

what other options are there?

​

You should not share a double socket-outlet with two high load appliances. A single socket-outlet for each should be used. A double socket-outlet does not have double the current rating of a single socket-outlet, and could pose a fire hazard.

Secondly 2,100W is absolutely not equal to 2.1kWh - it's equal to 2.1kW. A 2.1kW load used continuously for 1 hour would utilise 2.1kWh of energy, as would a 4.2kW load for 30 minutes, or a 1.5kW load for two hours. Realistically with the likes of a washing machine the actual power draw will vary depending on the part of the cycle, so will be more complex than this.

A unit to measure your electricity consumption is equal to 1kWh.

Risteard

Keep_pedalling said:

blackstar said:

Keep_pedalling said:

blackstar said:

I read

"DON’T use the washing machine and dishwasher at the same time as the loading will be more than 16 amps."

I also read that a solution is to install 2 single sockets rather than a double socket? Would this prevent power overload? But isn't it still on the same circuit? Just different sockets? 

Not a problem with a nice new radial circuit with 32A breaker. 

Thanks so a new rewire will be a radial circuit with 32A breaker. 

That was a typo on my part I meant ring. Radials tend to be 4mm wires with 20A breakers.

No they don't. A radial circuit supplied by 4mm^2 live conductors would be much more likely to be on a 25A protective device.

casper_gutman

ThisIsWeird said:

Blackstar, perhaps even worth looking at 'modular' or 'grid' switch systems too, as often found in more recent homes. Rather than a scattering of separate switches and sockets, you have have them all on one fascia.
In your case, I guess a light switch, double socket, and two labelled FSUs for these appliances.
Much neater, I think, and I presume they can be customised like this to suit your needs - tho' not sure.

Agree that modular/grid switches are the way to go for this kind of thing. Multiple labelled switches on a single plate looks much neater than a whole bunch of singles.

Also, I think there was a suggestion upthread that you should use fused isolator switches? I wouldn't have thought that would be necessary where the appliances are connected with fused plugs. If you have two fuses with the same rating in the current path for an appliance then any fault would likely cause only one of them to fail. Which one would depend on random manufacturing tolerances of the fuse wire rather than the design of your electrical system, which seems unsatisfactory.

The example here is in our utility room. Labelled grid switches for washing machine, dryer and extractor fan. Only the fan is fused, because the laundry appliances are connected by fused plugs under the counter.