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Where is best place to put sockets for washing machine and dish washer?

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  • blackstar
    blackstar Posts: 630 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    blackstar said:

    I read


    "DON’T use the washing machine and dishwasher at the same time as the loading will be more than 16 amps."


    I also read that a solution is to install 2 single sockets rather than a double socket? Would this prevent power overload? But isn't it still on the same circuit? Just different sockets? 

    Not a problem with a nice new radial circuit with 32A breaker. 
    Thanks so a new rewire will be a radial circuit with 32A breaker. 
  • blackstar
    blackstar Posts: 630 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Hi Blackstar.
    It might seem like a heavy load for one double socket, but it's no different to you plugging in a kettle in the kitchen whilst the WM is running - provided the kitchen is wired correctly. 
    But, since you are doing this from scratch, do it properly - give each appliance its own single (unswitched) socket behind the space where it's going under the worktop, controlled by separate fused switches at a convenient position above the worktop. 
    Looking at your pic, I'd say the most obviously suitable position for the FSUs would be under the existing switch and socket - that appears to be nicely away from the sink, but let your sparky confirm the regs to you.


    Thanks
    That's what I'll do. Give the two appliances their own single socket with seperate circuits and the switches above the worktop.

    I've just bought two of these for the two appliances for under the counter.

    https://www.toolstation.com/bg-ip66-single-13a-socket-with-large-enclosure/p33435
  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    blackstar said:
    Hi Blackstar.
    It might seem like a heavy load for one double socket, but it's no different to you plugging in a kettle in the kitchen whilst the WM is running - provided the kitchen is wired correctly. 
    But, since you are doing this from scratch, do it properly - give each appliance its own single (unswitched) socket behind the space where it's going under the worktop, controlled by separate fused switches at a convenient position above the worktop. 
    Looking at your pic, I'd say the most obviously suitable position for the FSUs would be under the existing switch and socket - that appears to be nicely away from the sink, but let your sparky confirm the regs to you.


    Thanks
    That's what I'll do. Give the two appliances their own single socket with seperate circuits and the switches above the worktop.

    I've just bought two of these for the two appliances for under the counter.

    https://www.toolstation.com/bg-ip66-single-13a-socket-with-large-enclosure/p33435

    Nice, but overkill - just not needed.
    I guess there's a tiny risk of a supply pipe bursting and spraying water everywhere, but that's what RCDs are for. Depending on where you fit these 'outdoor' sockets, you may find it prevents your appliances from being pushed under the 'top as far as you'd like.
    What do you mean by 'separate circuits'? These sockets will simply be supplied from the existing kitchen circuit, assuming that the kitchen is on its own MCB?
  • Eldi_Dos
    Eldi_Dos Posts: 2,151 Forumite
    Fifth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    @blackstar
                        That trailing red lead in photo should be disposed of, a lead that can lay on a wet draining board or worse fall into a sink is not a good thing.Eventually Murphy's Law will kick in.
  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    There's a significant risk of 5V coursing through that metal sink, and causing nary a tingle.
  • Eldi_Dos
    Eldi_Dos Posts: 2,151 Forumite
    Fifth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Yeah but its not hard to devine that the plug and lead may have been manufactured somewhere with different values, why take the risk, bin the lead and get a shorter one.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,259 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    blackstar said:
    Hi Blackstar.
    It might seem like a heavy load for one double socket, but it's no different to you plugging in a kettle in the kitchen whilst the WM is running - provided the kitchen is wired correctly. 
    But, since you are doing this from scratch, do it properly - give each appliance its own single (unswitched) socket behind the space where it's going under the worktop, controlled by separate fused switches at a convenient position above the worktop. 
    Looking at your pic, I'd say the most obviously suitable position for the FSUs would be under the existing switch and socket - that appears to be nicely away from the sink, but let your sparky confirm the regs to you.


    Thanks
    That's what I'll do. Give the two appliances their own single socket with seperate circuits and the switches above the worktop.

    I've just bought two of these for the two appliances for under the counter.

    https://www.toolstation.com/bg-ip66-single-13a-socket-with-large-enclosure/p33435

    Nice, but overkill - just not needed.
    Depending on where you fit these 'outdoor' sockets, you may find it prevents your appliances from being pushed under the 'top as far as you'd like.
    If you want sockets directly behind the appliance, you really need to use flush mounted. There is precious little clearance behind most washing machines & dishwashers. So forget the outdoor sockets, and get yourself some 35mm single back boxes, single sockets, and some 20mm conduit (plus female adaptors).
    If you still find the appliances don't go all the way back under the counter, it is easy enough to replace the plug & socket with a flex outlet plate.
    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • Keep_pedalling
    Keep_pedalling Posts: 20,913 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    blackstar said:
    blackstar said:

    I read


    "DON’T use the washing machine and dishwasher at the same time as the loading will be more than 16 amps."


    I also read that a solution is to install 2 single sockets rather than a double socket? Would this prevent power overload? But isn't it still on the same circuit? Just different sockets? 

    Not a problem with a nice new radial circuit with 32A breaker. 
    Thanks so a new rewire will be a radial circuit with 32A breaker. 
    That was a typo on my part I meant ring. Radials tend to be 4mm wires with 20A breakers.
  • 35har1old
    35har1old Posts: 1,928 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    blackstar said:

    I read


    "DON’T use the washing machine and dishwasher at the same time as the loading will be more than 16 amps."


    I also read that a solution is to install 2 single sockets rather than a double socket? Would this prevent power overload? But isn't it still on the same circuit? Just different sockets? 

    Each of the appliance should be wired via fused sockets with single  extension sockets allowing for movement to avoid the machines once in position 
  • 35har1old
    35har1old Posts: 1,928 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    blackstar said:
    Does a double socket with a dish washer in one socket and the washing machine in the other have the power in the sockets will be enough?

    Overall, the average dishwasher consumes between 1.2kWh and 1.5kWh per load

    The average washing machine is 2,100 watts, which is equal to 2.1 kWh

    So if we have the washing machine plugged into the double socket and the dishwasher plugged into the other socket is that OK? If not what should we do socket wise?

    As they both need to be next to eaxhother as connected to the pipes under sink.

    We are getting a full rewire starting today so final chance to make sure things are right. 


    what other options are there?


    If you wire them into a double socket that would mean that cable would be brought up through the worktop this would also  require the removal of the molded plug which might invalidate the warranty.
    Plugs should be a minimum off 300mm from edge of sink bowl
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