We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.
This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.
📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
The Forum now has a brand new text editor, adding a bunch of handy features to use when creating posts. Read more in our how-to guide
Bathroom Design options
Comments
-
Fromdownwest said:Wow, thank you all so much for the amazing insights, made me look at it from a totally different light.
Stud wall option has opened up the image beyond belief.
Toilet and sink on far wall may be a push as a mirror above the sink will be very close to window edge.
So sink on LH wall makes more sense.
Any minor adjustments welcome!
900x1100 shower with stud wall and hinge door.Good call by D and FreeBear to consider the basin on that same back wall.The toilet can be moved much further over towards the boxed-in waste than you think - I've just measured ours, and the LH rim of the pan is only 250mm from the side wall, and there is no feeling of it being too close at all.You currently have it sitting 500mm away from the wall - I reckon you can move it tight against that waste with no issues at all, freeing up a larger gap between it and the bath that you may have imagined.I am not at all suggesting anything like the following link, but just putting it 'out there' for consideration. With a blank slate, I think you should be Pinteresting and GooglingImaging your fingers away;That bath/shower wall can be quite thin, and doesn't have to be a full stud wall, hopefully allowing you a 900mm wide tray instead of the 800mm one you are showing. Whilst 800mm wide is 'ok', 900mm is far better. A sandwich of, say, two x shower panels (especially the rigid stuff) with an ~18mm ply/OSB/whatevs in the middle should be very solid, and way under 2" thick. It'll be secured its full height at the back, to the floor and the ceiling, and the front edge can be enhanced with mouldings to make it look more substantial on the bath side if needed.Come on, you know you want to...
Soz - that's what happens when you spend too much time on 'interest. :-)
2 -
Thanks for the input, it really is very much appreciated.Doozergirl said:Spin the loo to the left hand wall then so you only have one waste run and can box in neatly.Otherwise you'll have pipes everywhere.
Does this look better? 300mm heated rail on wall next to shower also.
0 -
Image attached

1 -
Also, would I need this additional unit to make it look cleaner?

0 -
I assume there will be a storage unit under the sink and/or a mirror/unit above it. Got to keep those loo rolls, toothbrushes etc. somewhere!

The towel rail looks a bit narrow to me, but maybe it is tall? When we had our bathroom done, we replaced the central heating driven towel rail with a dual fuel one, so that we can run it off electricity in the summer when the heating is off.I’m a Forum Ambassador and I support the Forum Team on the In My Home MoneySaving, Energy and Techie Stuff boards. If you need any help on these boards, do let me know. Please note that Ambassadors are not moderators. Any posts you spot in breach of the Forum Rules should be reported via the report button, or by emailing forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com.
All views are my own and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.
0 -
Fromdownwest said: 300mm heated rail on wall next to shower also.You need to do a proper heat loss calculation - https://www.stelrad.com/basic-heat-loss-calculator/I suspect you will need something in the region of 800-900W of heating. A 300mm wide towel rail just isn't going to be man enough.
Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
Fromdownwest said:Image attached
That looks very good to me. Optimum in terms of space and aesthetics.If you are considering a free-standing/roll-top bath as shown, then even more reason to free up the whole floor space in front of it as you have done.The only obvious drawback would be the routing of the pipes to/from the bath and shower. What room is to the right of the bathroom? Any void space under the floor?A corner-entry cubicle would also work there (no wall) if space is tight, so keep your options open and check out pics of all the possibilities. (Although I think a fancy bath like that would look best away from a glass shower side.)1 -
Thanks, its a back to wall bath or freestanding with floor standing taps. Plus void under the floor for routing of pipes (already there as there are dual sinks where the shower will go). Re routing the waste was my main concern, that has now been removed.
Mirror cabinet above sink for storage, along with storafe under the sink unit. 610 sink unit, maybe could push to a 750?


1 -
A bath like the pictures you've posted in the space you've got is very difficult to clean around. The floor in the gaps by the window/shower will become grim quite quickly. You'll drop bottles of shampoo and shower gel down the gaps and then have to fish them out. It's what I inherited when I bought my house and I can't wait to change it to something else.
3 -
I'd echo this. You need space to get around the bath and clean it. They are made for bigger spaces than the OP has. It will be awkward and frustrating to live with.Mnoee said:A bath like the pictures you've posted in the space you've got is very difficult to clean around. The floor in the gaps by the window/shower will become grim quite quickly. You'll drop bottles of shampoo and shower gel down the gaps and then have to fish them out. It's what I inherited when I bought my house and I can't wait to change it to something else.Putting a stud wall in enables you to fit both a bath and shower perfectly surrounded by three walls. The stud can also be used for a shelf or to hold concealed shower fittings. It will look great.Re: heating. I started calculating heating requirements, stopped using towel rails and started using proper radiators a long time ago. The priority has to be warmth in a room where you spend most of your time naked.You can buy modern radiators where you can clip rails to them in order to hold towels. Or you put a wall mounted rail over a regular radiator.If one insists on using a towel rail then a tip is that white towel rails have double the BTU of chrome plated ones.Everything that is supposed to be in heaven is already here on earth.
1
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply
Categories
- All Categories
- 353.5K Banking & Borrowing
- 254.1K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 455K Spending & Discounts
- 246.6K Work, Benefits & Business
- 602.9K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 178.1K Life & Family
- 260.6K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.7K Read-Only Boards


