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Washing machine plumbing.
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Ok, as you suspect, the pins are stuck in the down position, so these rads are not coming on?
You tried the right thing - gently thumping the chrome surround of that top part.
Penetrating fluid is also a good call, but check it's ok on rubber components.
Sometimes just leaving the head off for a few days will allow it to sort itself - there's a rubber washer at the bottom of that pin that controls the flow, and it will have been pressed down tightly by the 'head' for so long that it's stuck to the metal base. A quite powerful spring makes it want to naturally pop up, so this spring will be continuously trying to release it - just keep the head off! Give it more thumps each day!
Or, get a well fitting spanner - ideally 'ring' type - for that smaller brass 'gland' nut immediately surrounding the pin. Place it on with the spanner arm pointing towards the left so that you know its starting position, and can return it there. Now turn it anti-clock as you look down on it, just a quarter turn, so the arm is now pointing out into the room. Thump the chrome bit a few times, and also - gently - the sides of the pin itself. Pop up? No? Turn the spanner further to the right, so it's nearly a half turn slackened.
Thump. Thump. Thump.
It might begin to weep from around the pin, but chances are it won't. But have a dish under the valve just in case.
You can also try tapping down sharply on the top of the pin - not hard, but repeated (the washer will squash a fraction each time, and then spring back - good chance it'll release at some point.)
Try and leave it like this for a while, and repeat.
If still no result, you can undo that nut a full turn, but note how far it'll need redoing afterwards to get back to the starting point.
If this finally works - the pin pops up - then get some silicone grease and wipe a nice smear around the pin, tightly down where it disappears, and push it down repeatedly, allowing it to pop back up. Add more grease. Then return the gland nut to its original position, and check all is still well.
You have fixed it. Mare sure a nice collar of grease sits around the pin base - that will keep lub'ing the pin in use. Refit the head, and check it's good - it should feel easy to turn from '5' down to around '3' (depending on room temp), and then become progressively more stiff - if it's working correctly.
If you ever turn the TRVs fully off for a prolonged period, only do so to 'frost', and not 'tight'.1 -
I did try it on my radiator and it worked (a while ago) but the movement is very shallow and hardly any travel on any of them.
Tried to cancel the washer and going to have to phone up about it but it's been shipped so I don't know what I can do about it and thought it was delayed till the 12th anyway bur maybe they'll try to deliver tomorrow. I emailed them and left the warehouse (Panther) a message a few times but no response.
For the others I tried going back after a few days and my mum's one is properly stuck anyway. I didn't think about the ring spanner so thanks for that tip. I did try knocking on the top of the pin gently after it wouldn't budge but every video says to try the side and not to whack it or else you can get an expensive mess!
So are they meant to be popped up a lot further than they look? Even my radiator that was working till a while ago had about a mm of travel, if that and the pin looks nothing like ones I've seen in other videos. There's a guy on YouTube I like who seems knowledgeable about these things I think his name is Derek or something can't remember his profile name and either a plumber or general handyman with those skills.
Another was a bloke with glasses iirc but not seen his for a while. May be Mark something for boilers and has.
I think originally they may have seized by being in the off position which I've always made sure to tell people not to do now and never go beyond frost to prevent this situation.
I'll have another go at that and think my brother has a go at it as well in my mum's room but I don't think one is going anywhere unless I use the ring spanner.
If I want the radiator off in mum's room (she complains of being too hot so has window open so it doesn't work plus energy bills) can I just turn the other side down) off counting the turns and making a note of it?
I have seen it said you can turn it off that way but I was afraid it would unbalance the radiators do you know if this is the case?
I will give what you said a go if mum lets me! Need a suitable spanner and uses to have loads of tools before my dad passed but now they're everywhere or been thrown out. Some rusted and we're likely worth a lot too as he was a maintenance fitter and had all sorts of tools including chrome vanadium huge spanner sets.0 -
Update. This is turning into an absolute nightmare which is usual and my mum is being funny about it now.
Told me to get quotes and things and she'd help pay and then just won't have anyone come out. I put in as in rated people and got contacted and because of my mum now I've ended up messing someone around.
It would have been £20 (down from £30 for a callout).
I have since learned the plinths should be able to be removed with a car dent suction set so it doesn't damage the plinths.
I was talking to the one who replied on rated people and asked for a quote via someone else who didn't say when they'd come and didn't turn up despite replying quickly.
Mum thinks the guys name that did the stopcock tap was a certain person who I've now said well I'll get him then. I'm trying to help here and she is putting obstacles in the way.
Also, LG charged me for the washer today making me overdrawn when they said they'd cancel it. Had to phone them as they didn't reply via email.
It all boils down to "access" to behind the units and in getting asked questions about it when I am not the qualified person. That's why I wanted someone to come out and look in person. Going to try with the guy my mum "remembered" that I don't think is correct.
Mum is just saying things like "can they (LG) not just connect it to the end that is in the beko currently installed" which I wanted to know as well.
I wanted to cancel that and get a different machine which I'm trying to do but no idea why they charged me and just says "delivered" now. Has a return button but that's why I wanted qualified people out and to do the stopcock tap as well.
I don't know how long the machine I want twill be on offer for either. It's a £700 machine I found for a lot cheaper and cashback too.
Am I being unreasonable? My mum gave me the go ahead for it but after chatting to one plumber for quite a while sounds like a hard job with access the problem so I haven't got a viable solution and nobody has even been out to look at it in person.
Thought I was doing people a favour buying a washing machine and getting work done that I think is very necessary so the pressure doesn't drop with washer on and people showering, and instead getting told off for mentioning it now.
I don't get my mum at times. Just puts unnecessary obstacles in the way and thinks I should have let Panther group try to install the LG one but how are they meant to do that of they can't access the hose/ extension at the back of the units.0 -
Hey, pal, leave yer mum outta this! (Just try that with a mum in law, and be thankful...)Your situation is that the plumbing is not standard. Coupled with that the 'joint' is hidden and not easily accessible.On that basis, I cannot see AO or any other company installing your W/M. That leaves calling out a local plumber who may be 'happy' to do so.You could always let Panther instal it - you plead ignorance, and point out the old machine was working fine. If they refuse (and I suspect they will - but you never know until you ask), then it's local plumber or DIY time.1
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I already cancelled with Panther the delivery and can't remember if I said why to them or just to LG.
That's the thing I'mi was trying to call a plumber / handyman type and got the go ahead from my mum. Sorry I know it wasn't great to say but I'm trying to find solutions and get people to come out. An actual plumber to look and she was fine with it and even offered to pay or at least contribute whilst I bought the washer.
It seems that some of the plumbers/ mixed types I messaged needed to know the access and I think the most I got was remodelling cupboards and moving the washer which would be very disruptive, expensive and difficult and means less usable space as well.
I think my mum wants the guy the fitted the stopcock if anyone at all (which is exactly who I wanted but she couldn't remember the name of him until today) or at least when I looked round locally at the five star rated plumbers so I'm going to contact him and ask if he can actually come out to look because as much as pictures can tell a basic story it isn't like it's everything and could just be a simple thing I've not said or shown or just not explaining well enough when in person I could show them properly.
I'm just frustrated and thought I was doing something to benefit everybody in the family and wish it was a simpler setup.
I mean I was speaking to one over the phone and he was like "I can't understand why your water pressure would have changed if all he did was replace a stopcock, but that's the thing, there are two stopcocks there as one snapped off when trying to turn water off when my brother drilled into a pipe upstairs so it was a quick emergency repair that "would be a big job to fix fully" I remember being delayed to me third hand.
For some reason it meant the pressure couldn't be opened fully maybe as it was going through a different route or something, idk. Maybe it needed the outside stopcock off to fix fully or something not sure though mum said something about a "diverter" being mentioned.
I did think the washer was cancelled but seems like I have to click return now as I did find a deal on a washer I really like. I mean both are good but I did phone LG to cancel yet they took payment after "the non delivery".
I just think it makes sense to get the guy that did the stopcock out. He was reasonably priced according to my mum and rated well but with it coming up to Christmas some aren't available till new year like the first plumber to reply to me. I hope she will let me call the guy she likes out and then I get an answer one way or the other and of nothing else get the water pressure back to how it was.
I take it the pipe out of the back of the new washer couldn't be used to connect to the end currently sticking out the back of the Beko?0 -
Yes, you could cut the existing hose before it disappears and join the new machine's hose to it there, and connectors exist for supposedly such a purpose.
Eg: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-outlet-hose-connector-17mm/37103
This would then theoretically mean that you'd have two joints along that hose length!
If you read the reviews, you'll find it said that it isn't a good fit on many hoses - they are not all the same. I can confirm that this is the case as I fitted a new hose onto sil's w/m around 4 months ago, when some very friendly rats chewed a huge hole through it. As I recall, it was a loose fit in the original hose (Samsung W/M), but nicely snug in the new hose I added (also a SF item). I had to coat the spigot in Stixall before insertion, and use two jubilee clips on each side.
It worked, BUT the joint was easily accessible so could be visually checked, and it was near the high point of the hose's travel, so was never left filled with water - only during actual use.
And that's my issue with your existing setup; the existing connector will surely be at floor level, so always full of water. If it doesn't leak, then great, but if it does, you won't know - until the water appears somewhere.
I really don't know what to suggest. It strikes me as dodgy for the reasons I've mentioned, but I'm not going to say "don't do it", because that ain't my call. I'm just pointing out the risks.
I was joshing about the mum bit! I'm sure it doesn't help you - you seem to have been landed with a dilemma.
I can only point out what I would do in this situation, but then I'd be able to DIY it (tho' I bet it's darned awkward).0 -
I appreciate the response. It sounds like a solution but I really would like someone out to the house to look at it and will contact that Dom that my mum liked.
I would ideally like it done properly and if nothing else at least get full mains pressure back because the pressure in our area is generally great. So powerful that the plumber doing the bathroom when we had the kitchen and rest of the heating fitted switched the water off but left a tap on full blast upstairs accidentally, switched it back on from downstairs stopcock and it was half flooded by the time he got upstairs to switch it off.
I still need to contact LG and decide once and for all what to do with the washer. Mum was suggesting getting them to deliver it and try to install it but can see a huge problem with that already and if they can't fit it we are still left with the same problem as we already have.
They charged me as well now despite it being back at their warehouse although it says "delivered" on the page.
It's now a Friday and instead of things being looked at yesterday it's now a weekend and getting further towards Christmas so I just don't know what to do and how long the other washing machine I want will be on offer for. As well as maybe annoying a tradesman because I was waiting for a decision from my mum.
Appreciate the info about connecting the hose already there and yes it sounds far from ideal.
I'll try and talk to my mum about it again but feel like I get shut down every time I mention It and it's never convenient and now its the justification of keeping the old one that still works she has brought up. It does work but is so loud and just had the opportunity to get additional things sorted and the money to do so.
I'll certainly near what you said in mind though. I will keep trying to talk to my mum about it and get something sorted eventually hopefully.1 -
Update. Had a plumber round finally who was the guy who originally fitted the second stop !!!!!!.
The reason he put a diverter/ new pipe on the one that snapped off was he couldn't turn the water off in the street as it was clogged up with sand and muck, mud etc.
I had completely forgotten this and remember I cleared the mud and grit for a long time myself looking like a idiot in the process.
Came round after I had a message saying he was ill which actually turned out to be an automated message which was no longer true from a few weeks earlier m. In the meantime booked someone to come out in January who now need to cancel so going to annoy another plumber now.
Confirmed water rate was low at 6 litres (per minute?) on a gauge downstairs and that without being able to turn it off it would be difficult to do much about it. Mum turned to me and said "not looking good is it m?" after he went outside to main street stopcock.
I was stunned when he said it turned and I did a good job to free it so could be swapped out for new pipe instead now. Confirmed additional/ slight resistance was in the pipe attached to original stopcock.
Then didn't look great downstairs. Went up to 8 litres on the flow gauge and asked neighbours who tested theirs at 10 litres.
We were talking about it mainly being whilst in shower and his quickly a bath fills that's the main issue so he gave me the gauge to test upstairs. I couldn't measure it. Not because I'm an idiot but it was so powerful from the cold tap.
Happy with this and asked about fitting a washer and boiler work. Quick checked the boiler to explain the (not drop rate but a flow rate and having to have a hot tap down to a set limit for the rated flow through boiler).
He said it likely is the diverter valve and needs checking/ fixing asap really but mentioned if in receipt of certain benefits it's possible to have boilers free (potentially) and mentioned someone called warm front that maybe I should be eligible for as I am on income related benefits.
Overall I'm very happy with him and his service. £50 he wanted and was here around an hour and i think more. Came straight away (well after overnight message) whilst others would be January - February time so he can come out to fit the washer too which I've ordered but no delivery date yet.
He did try to remove the plinths to check while he was there but couldn't budge them easily and may be needs to be more force applied. Could try those car dent removers next time I suppose but he said if not maybe he could attach the new pipe to the old and run the same route round the corners as the old is pulled out.
He also said it did need to be raised a bit but there would always be some water in the pile as the machine needs it to pump. Another plumber I phoned said the same thing that it isn't as important for the gradual decline so hoping that can be done and he can do that.
Did give him an extra tenner but still felt a bit tight as I thought it'd be more. Not sure it is 100% like it was but there's a stopcock upstairs near the boiler that turns the water off to everywhere but the toilet for some reason although I forgot to mention it and maybe the boiler causes some issues with the hot water.
It's a lot better than it was and less drop off but need to see how it is tomorrow if it is ok running a shower and say hot tap/ cold tap/ washer at same time without any severe flow cur in the shower.
Sorry for the waffle but I'm just chuffed I kept on asking (mum would say mithering) my mum could we get it looked at.
All I need to do now is tell the other plumber I don't need him politely as this was an unexpected availability after that text that he was ill.
Don't want a reputation of teeing off tradesmen but have to say somehow I don't require the other plumber.
I'm just absolutely stunned the outside main stoptap turned as I thought maybe it's be full of dirt again since I cleared it or seized or whatever but very grateful it did.
Edit :- just wondering if the tap we had installed (I think after he had been out) could affect the flow as upstairs was very good pressure via cold. Unmeasurable as it went all over me. Lol.
I know it has a washer or filter thing maybe to filter and aerate the water? That may affect the downstairs/ kitchen tap as it was still a tad low but better so maybe could be that if upstairs is good or at least some flow regulation maybe. Cold especially. Hot better too but cold is like a jet now.1 -
Further update. Possible I may be right. I think the kitchen tap was from B and Q and the one that most looks like it (identical virtually) has a "Neoperl water saving aerator and pre filters" so could explain some of the pressure difference upstairs to downstairs.0
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Update. Had a plumber round finally who was the guy who originally fitted the second stop!!!!!!. The forum is happy with that word.
The reason he put a diverter/ new pipe on the one that snapped off was he couldn't turn the water off in the street as it was clogged up with sand and muck, mud etc. Tsk. Lazy git.
I was stunned when he said it turned and I did a good job to free it so could be swapped out for new pipe instead now. Confirmed additional/ slight resistance was in the pipe attached to original stopcock.
Then didn't look great downstairs. Went up to 8 litres on the flow gauge and asked neighbours who tested theirs at 10 litres. Even 10 is pants. But conforms to Water-Board requirements.
We were talking about it mainly being whilst in shower and his quickly a bath fills that's the main issue so he gave me the gauge to test upstairs. I couldn't measure it. Not because I'm an idiot but it was so powerful from the cold tap. Ok, this is weird. You need to know what the actual pressure and flow in your cold mains is, as that will determine the solution in getting it to the other outlets. Another way is to place a pan under the tap, turn it on full, and yime 6 seconds. 'Times' the number of litres by 10 to get lpm.
Happy with this and asked about fitting a washer and boiler work. Quick checked the boiler to explain the (not drop rate but a flow rate and having to have a hot tap down to a set limit for the rated flow through boiler).
He said it likely is the diverter valve and needs checking/ fixing asap really but mentioned if in receipt of certain benefits it's possible to have boilers free (potentially) and mentioned someone called warm front that maybe I should be eligible for as I am on income related benefits. If your boiler is old enough - certainly if it's a non-condensing type - then I understand there are grants available for free replacements.
Overall I'm very happy with him and his service. £50 he wanted and was here around an hour and i think more. Came straight away (well after overnight message) whilst others would be January - February time so he can come out to fit the washer too which I've ordered but no delivery date yet. He sounds like a good guy.
He did try to remove the plinths to check while he was there but couldn't budge them easily and may be needs to be more force applied. Could try those car dent removers next time I suppose but he said if not maybe he could attach the new pipe to the old and run the same route round the corners as the old is pulled out. You really need to find the make of kitchen, and how to remove these! I bet a surf will give an answer - 'how to remove SS plinths'.
He also said it did need to be raised a bit but there would always be some water in the pile as the machine needs it to pump. Another plumber I phoned said the same thing that it isn't as important for the gradual decline so hoping that can be done and he can do that. Yes, that's true, but that is usually taken care of by the W/M itself - if you look, the outlet hose almost always comes out near its top. The pump - fitted at the bootom inside the machine - needs to be under water in order to be 'primed' and ready to get going. Whether the hose needs raising even more will be shown in the instructions. Your main issue, tho', is the low-lying hidden hose with joints in it! I guess if he can pull through a complete, unbroken, hose, that would be good!
Did give him an extra tenner but still felt a bit tight as I thought it'd be more. Not sure it is 100% like it was but there's a stopcock upstairs near the boiler that turns the water off to everywhere but the toilet for some reason although I forgot to mention it and maybe the boiler causes some issues with the hot water. This is a combi boiler? That stopcock will likely be the cold supply to the boiler, so will only turn off the hot.
It's a lot better than it was and less drop off but need to see how it is tomorrow if it is ok running a shower and say hot tap/ cold tap/ washer at same time without any severe flow cur in the shower.
Edit :- just wondering if the tap we had installed (I think after he had been out) could affect the flow as upstairs was very good pressure via cold. Unmeasurable as it went all over me. Lol.
I know it has a washer or filter thing maybe to filter and aerate the water? That may affect the downstairs/ kitchen tap as it was still a tad low but better so maybe could be that if upstairs is good or at least some flow regulation maybe. Cold especially. Hot better too but cold is like a jet now. Quite possibly! It's possibly an 'eco' or water-saving tap.
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