What do people use to cover the ducting for cooker hood

[Deleted User]

plumb1_2 said:

FreeBear said:

Just a thought... Where is the isolation switch for the cooker hood ?

I’ve just looked at the pre fitting picture and there’s no electrical for the extractor. I previously said it could ? be behind the hood.
So I guess this not so good builder has just spliced into the cable in the truncking to supply a feed to it. And maybe wired directly into the extractor without an isolator being fitted, that would concern me. Also who has fitted the electrical supply to oven/hob ?
And I guess the socket on the right is a spur from the left hand socket that’s why plastic trunking is running across the wall.

Op with this being a rental have you had a sparkie in yet to test. Before it’s rented.

I will need to get electrical cerificate, last done was 2019 and they last 5 years bnut with works done likely need to get another done.

plumb1_2

Zoe02 said:

I will need to get electrical cerificate, last done was 2019 and they last 5 years bnut with works done likely need to get another done.

So can we presume that the builder did the extra electrical work to the hob,oven and extractor.
And just feed off a single spur ? 

My advice is to get the work inspected and tested asap, then if there is a problem you’ll have time to sort it before renting out. 

Mr.Generous

plumb1_2 said:

Zoe02 said:

I will need to get electrical cerificate, last done was 2019 and they last 5 years bnut with works done likely need to get another done.

So can we presume that the builder did the extra electrical work to the hob,oven and extractor.
And just feed off a single spur ? 

My advice is to get the work inspected and tested asap, then if there is a problem you’ll have time to sort it before renting out. 

If you look at the before picture on the LH side it looks like a cooker switch to me. On the later pic you can see an outlet plate low down beneath not used. So I'd say plumb is right to assume a botch on the wiring. Also in the washing machine space possibly a trailing extension socket poking through?

I'd agree with plumb1, the chances of the electrics being anywhere close to compliant OR safe is negligable. I've never seen anyone tile with trunking either. Although you can fit any number of spurs from a socket you would have to fuse down first, and that would be an issue with a washing machine and cooker even before they plugged in a kettle. The same rating fuse would not protect a cooker hood and the sockets either - although you could argue a 3a would protect it would be useless and likely to lead to all sorts of issues as tenant tried to find a way round it.

Any pics before the new kitchen went in but after the rip out showing the wiring and plumbing?

[Deleted User]

Hi All, 

Got a suggestion that MDf not a good idea because of fire. 

Fire rated Plasterboard which i have at the flat. 

[Deleted User]

Time to sort the garden out to look nicer. Getting there 

[Deleted User]

Mr.Generous said:

plumb1_2 said:

Zoe02 said:

I will need to get electrical cerificate, last done was 2019 and they last 5 years bnut with works done likely need to get another done.

So can we presume that the builder did the extra electrical work to the hob,oven and extractor.
And just feed off a single spur ? 

My advice is to get the work inspected and tested asap, then if there is a problem you’ll have time to sort it before renting out. 

If you look at the before picture on the LH side it looks like a cooker switch to me. On the later pic you can see an outlet plate low down beneath not used. So I'd say plumb is right to assume a botch on the wiring. Also in the washing machine space possibly a trailing extension socket poking through?

I'd agree with plumb1, the chances of the electrics being anywhere close to compliant OR safe is negligable. I've never seen anyone tile with trunking either. Although you can fit any number of spurs from a socket you would have to fuse down first, and that would be an issue with a washing machine and cooker even before they plugged in a kettle. The same rating fuse would not protect a cooker hood and the sockets either - although you could argue a 3a would protect it would be useless and likely to lead to all sorts of issues as tenant tried to find a way round it.

Any pics before the new kitchen went in but after the rip out showing the wiring and plumbing?

Before pictures 

For the last electrical the electrician bought some extes things for the RCD box for it to pass. 

ThisIsWeird

Zoe02 said:

Hi All, 

Got a suggestion that MDf not a good idea because of fire. 

Fire rated Plasterboard which i have at the flat. 

Yes, MDF will burn, but by the time that cover has ignited, your kitchen will already have been completely gutted. It's contribution to any fire will be negligible.

But, it you already have a suitable material - and plasterboard is - then it makes sense to use it. However, it will be notably more work, as it'll require a plaster skim afterwards.

[Deleted User]

ThisIsWeird said:

Zoe02 said:

Hi All, 

Got a suggestion that MDf not a good idea because of fire. 

Fire rated Plasterboard which i have at the flat. 

Yes, MDF will burn, but by the time that cover has ignited, your kitchen will already have been completely gutted. It's contribution to any fire will be negligible.

But, it you already have a suitable material - and plasterboard is - then it makes sense to use it. However, it will be notably more work, as it'll require a plaster skim afterwards.

Thanks plastering stuff there will leave him to sort it out. 

ThisIsWeird

Looking good Nice colour.

Yes, if you have a plaster still working there, they'll be able to make up suitable boxing for you, and finish it off perfectly.

[Deleted User]

ThisIsWeird said:

Looking good Nice colour.

Yes, if you have a plaster still working there, they'll be able to make up suitable boxing for you, and finish it off perfectly.

Thanks went for the premium paint.

Hopefully get a decent tenant. 

Spent more than budget.