What do people use to cover the ducting for cooker hood

Zoe02

FreeBear said:

Just a thought... Where is the isolation switch for the cooker hood ?

Does the cooker hood need isolation switch? Will it not just be switched on/off

FreeBear

Zoe02 said:

FreeBear said:

Just a thought... Where is the isolation switch for the cooker hood ?

Does the cooker hood need isolation switch? Will it not just be switched on/off

Yes. It should be on a fused switched spur with a 3Amp fuse. Alternatively, it could be on a plug & socket, again with a 3A fuse.

There should also be isolation switches above appliances such as the oven, washing machine and hob. Although, sometimes you'll find the appliances on plug/sockets inside adjacent cupboards.

housebuyer143

Zoe02 said:

Hi All,

nearing the end of this renovation but I insisted that the cooker hood be ducted out but now this is like this.

Is there something that can be used to cover it or what do people usually do in such case

You can buy flat solid ducting and then probably worth boxing it in as it will be noticeable. Less so if you paint it to match though.

plumb1_2

Zoe02 said:

plumb1_2 said:

I guess this was a Diy install by the op.

And don’t use plastic to box in the vent, as it will yellow and go brittle due to it being above heat source .

was not DIY.

Paying someone. 

Looks like MDF pro moisture resistant board

Nothing personal, but it’s a very poor install, I presume the same person installed your bathroom?

The electric supply to the sockets could have easily been altered before the new units went in.Having that plastic truncking running around the wall is poor, and would have cost little, plus new sockets.
As Fb says there should be electrical isolation for the extractor, nowadays they usually fit it behind the chimney hood, so it could have one.

Use mdf to boxin the pipe, and use a different builder or Diy it.
It doesn’t matter if it’s a ex council flat, it’s someone’s home and any builder should have taken more care with the installation as offer you advise.

housebuyer143

FreeBear said:

Zoe02 said:

moneysaver1978 said:

Is a narrow kitchen cupboard an option to hold spices, cooking oils, etc. so at least that space is functional?

It's a 1 bedroom flat, the kitchen has just been fitted, wasn't planning any more cupboards. Nearly there hopefully something can be sorted.

I'm really hoping that you are not paying for that "refit" - Aside from the ducting, who ever did the sockets needs shooting, and the tiler needs to find another job. The socket on the farthest left is useless. No space between the fitting and the tiles to get a plug in.. Neither pair of sockets are on the same level, and surface mounted trunking is cheap/nasty.

Oh, and watch your toes on the trim panels down by the kickstrips.

How hard would it have been to put the wires behind the new tiles. I have never seen trunking built into the tiling before...

CSI_Yorkshire

housebuyer143 said:

FreeBear said:

Zoe02 said:

moneysaver1978 said:

Is a narrow kitchen cupboard an option to hold spices, cooking oils, etc. so at least that space is functional?

It's a 1 bedroom flat, the kitchen has just been fitted, wasn't planning any more cupboards. Nearly there hopefully something can be sorted.

I'm really hoping that you are not paying for that "refit" - Aside from the ducting, who ever did the sockets needs shooting, and the tiler needs to find another job. The socket on the farthest left is useless. No space between the fitting and the tiles to get a plug in.. Neither pair of sockets are on the same level, and surface mounted trunking is cheap/nasty.

Oh, and watch your toes on the trim panels down by the kickstrips.

How hard would it have been to put the wires behind the new tiles. I have never seen trunking built into the tiling before...

If I've compared the pictures correctly, it looks like the sockets were installed onto the old tiles and then somehow the new tiling has been done around them?

plumb1_2

CSI_Yorkshire said:

housebuyer143 said:

FreeBear said:

Zoe02 said:

moneysaver1978 said:

Is a narrow kitchen cupboard an option to hold spices, cooking oils, etc. so at least that space is functional?

It's a 1 bedroom flat, the kitchen has just been fitted, wasn't planning any more cupboards. Nearly there hopefully something can be sorted.

I'm really hoping that you are not paying for that "refit" - Aside from the ducting, who ever did the sockets needs shooting, and the tiler needs to find another job. The socket on the farthest left is useless. No space between the fitting and the tiles to get a plug in.. Neither pair of sockets are on the same level, and surface mounted trunking is cheap/nasty.

Oh, and watch your toes on the trim panels down by the kickstrips.

How hard would it have been to put the wires behind the new tiles. I have never seen trunking built into the tiling before...

If I've compared the pictures correctly, it looks like the sockets were installed onto the old tiles and then somehow the new tiling has been done around them?

I suppose that looks fine to you love 😂😂😂😂😂

Sorry I couldn’t resist. Naughty me.

Zoe02

plumb1_2 said:

Zoe02 said:

plumb1_2 said:

I guess this was a Diy install by the op.

And don’t use plastic to box in the vent, as it will yellow and go brittle due to it being above heat source .

was not DIY.

Paying someone. 

Looks like MDF pro moisture resistant board

Nothing personal, but it’s a very poor install, I presume the same person installed your bathroom?

The electric supply to the sockets could have easily been altered before the new units went in.Having that plastic truncking running around the wall is poor, and would have cost little, plus new sockets.
As Fb says there should be electrical isolation for the extractor, nowadays they usually fit it behind the chimney hood, so it could have one.

Use mdf to boxin the pipe, and use a different builder or Diy it.
It doesn’t matter if it’s a ex council flat, it’s someone’s home and any builder should have taken more care with the installation as offer you advise.

Does the mdf have to be moisture resistant or a standard 

2440 x 1220 x 18mm ok?

Next time will be using a different builder. 

Stressing me out by not planning things properly. 

Zoe02

housebuyer143 said:

FreeBear said:

Zoe02 said:

moneysaver1978 said:

Is a narrow kitchen cupboard an option to hold spices, cooking oils, etc. so at least that space is functional?

It's a 1 bedroom flat, the kitchen has just been fitted, wasn't planning any more cupboards. Nearly there hopefully something can be sorted.

I'm really hoping that you are not paying for that "refit" - Aside from the ducting, who ever did the sockets needs shooting, and the tiler needs to find another job. The socket on the farthest left is useless. No space between the fitting and the tiles to get a plug in.. Neither pair of sockets are on the same level, and surface mounted trunking is cheap/nasty.

Oh, and watch your toes on the trim panels down by the kickstrips.

How hard would it have been to put the wires behind the new tiles. I have never seen trunking built into the tiling before...

I was shocked myself. 
Next time will be using someone else as those were newly fitted tiles.

The the wires usually go behind the tiles or walls? 

ThisIsWeird

Zoe02 said:

Does the mdf have to be moisture resistant or a standard 

2440 x 1220 x 18mm ok?

Standard should be fine, tho' moist-resist is better. But you only need a small panel, 600x600 or so. And 9mm thickness is plenty - even 6mm will do, and will be much easier to handle.

Two rectangular panels cut to fit neatly around the pipe, so they'll be just over 100mm wide x however long the distance betwixt the hood chimney and the RH wall. Butt-joined together in an L-shape using a small - say 15x15 - timber batten for strength. Joinned edges sanded smooth and blended in. Two more battens affixed to the wall and ceiling to take the panel edges, and jobbie jobbed.