Please help !! looks like my adventure with Grundfos ALPHA2 L 15-60 130 gone wrong!

sujsuj

Bendy_House said:

IF it's ONLY the pump that's failed, then the boiler should still fire up when called for. So try this:

1) Turn UP the room thermostat until it goes click.

2) Have someone standing next to the boiler ready to shout to you.

3) Press the manual or advance button on the radiator side of the programmer - you want the light to come on.

What happens? Anything?

4) Press the manual button again to turn the prog off.

At the moment what ever I do with room thermostat, iits not switching ON clicking  or kicking on anything ON. 
Danfoss no change  Grundfos no change.

But until I touched Grundfos switch my boiler was working despite no display in Danfoss controller. tahnks

sujsuj

Bendy_House said:

sujsuj said:

B and C are motorised valves. B allows the hot boiler water to get to the cylinder to heat it up, and C allows the hot boiler water to get to the CH to heat your rads.

When the programmer says radiators 'ON', and the room thermostat also says 'please heat up this room', then motorised valve C should whirrr for a few seconds to allow flow, and the boiler and pump should come on at the same time.

For DHW, valve B does the same.

If you manually move either of these valves to their open position using the lever I mentioned, then they should 'trigger' the boiler and pump to come on, even if the programmer says 'OFF'. But, the valve needs to make a click at the end of the lever travel for this to happen.

E is, indeed, the tank thermostat, which is usually set to around 65oC, and that determines how hot the cylinder water gets.

D is the wiring centre - it has lots of connectors inside - you don't want to go there...

G is probably the cable going to the room thermostat in another room? Ignore that too...

Thanks. I can see at least 3 valves around here.

A) Both sides of GRUNDFOS  there are 2 valves that can be rotated to open/close.. (lets call A1 UP  & A1 DOWN are you talking theses see first photo..?)
Or
B> are you talking about Blue Eres 28mm Lever Valve  type valve..? Image (2/3)

C) End of GRUNDFOS there is rotatable  nut valve also there..? Last image

Which one you are referring above..?

plumb1_2

You need to replace the programmer as it’s not working correctly 
After replacing test it out, check the pump motorised valves etc that there’s power to the switched lives with a multi meter. 

Best to get a heating engineer out.

Bendy_House

sujsuj said:

Bendy_House said:

sujsuj said:

H turns your WHOLE CH system off - everything (or it should). That's the boiler, pump, programmer, and everything in between. If you need to shut it all off at any time, that's how to do it. (But if doing any electrical work to it, also isolate it at the CU - the 'fuse box'.)

I is your immersion heater - which you say doesn't work. Does the red neon light come on when you turn it on?

Yes H and I are Clear, now.., we switches OFF H only when we are on Holidays.
I can confirm when ' I ' is ON, light on the light on the switch glows. That heater may not be working for months as I used it only when I ran out of Oil, towards end of that it stopped working. IBy then I got Oil in the tank so not bothered to repair. Its condition is not linked to recent issues I have

BTW is there any checks I could do to see why ' I ' is not getting me hot water..? Item marked J is in the top of  water heater which I believes heats water inside lank. 

If the indicator light comes on, that tells us that power is getting at least as far as that switch, and most likely beyond it too. That in turn means that the most likely issue is a burnt-out immersion element, or a faulty immersion stat (under the round immersion cover).

That's a sparky/plumber job.

Bendy_House

sujsuj said:

At the moment when boiler switch H is ON, both HW & CH LEDs are glowing and no display. Nothing on the panel changes that, even reset option is not making any difference. See photo.

Ok, not quite 100% clear on this.

Are you saying that, when you turn boiler switch H on, the indicator lights on the programmer come on - as seen in that photo? I think you are.

But, are you ALSO saying that pressing any button on the programmer - the manual or advance or whatevs - doesn't make ANY difference - the lights remain on?

Bendy_House

sujsuj said:

Thanks. I can see at least 3 valves around here.

A) Both sides of GRUNDFOS  there are 2 valves that can be rotated to open/close.. (lets call A1 UP  & A1 DOWN are you talking theses see first photo..?)
Or
B> are you talking about Blue Eres 28mm Lever Valve  type valve..? Image (2/3)

C) End of GRUNDFOS there is rotatable  nut valve also there..? Last image

Which one you are referring above..?

Yes, lots of valves!

But I was only referring to the two MOTORISED valves, B and C. These are controlled by electricity, and a signal from the programmer and 'stats.

The valves at each end of the pump are manual 'gate' valves, and are used to allow the pump to be removed and replaced without having to drain down the system.

The wee thingy at the end of the pipe in the second photo is an air-release valve, used to clear any trapped air in your system. Don't worry about that.

Also ignore the blue 'lever' valve. (That pipe says 'bathrooms', so I wonder if it supplies hot water to your bathroom rads/towel rails even in summer when the main CH is off?)

Bendy_House

Ok, I'm with Plumb1_2 here - your Danfoss is almost certainly kaput regardless of anything else!

Your call, but if you are otherwise 'happy' with that basic programmer, then I'm pretty that replacing it is actually a straight-forward DIY job, as it 'simply' unclips from a wired backplate. So you don't have to undo and rewire anything.

YOUR CALL. But if you look at its bottom side, you should - I think - find two screw heads? If you slacken them - no need to fully undo - then the whole unit should pivot up from these screws, and pull away from the backing plate.

The replacement goes back on in reverse - clip it over the back plate at its top, and then pivot it down until it's in position. Tighten the screws.

THIS IS - OBVIOUSLY - A POWER-OFF JOBBIE.

There will be lots of YouTube vids to show how this is done.

And, tbh, it's the ONLY thing you will be able to do on this job.

There is a very good chance that this will sort your issue, but - let's face it - the programmer needs replacing anyway, so no harm in trying this.

Bendy_House

You may also wish to consider alternatives to the LP715 Si, even if you could find one - they are discontinued.

I think - but I'm not sure - they use the 'standard' backplate, so that means that many other models will clip straight on and work. This would need confirming, but the newer Danfoss LP720 might fit (EDIT: I don't think it will. So the backplate would need replacing). Also other makes, equally well known - eg the Drayton LP722 - pretty sure that's a straight fit.

https://www.underfloorshop.co.uk/product/danfoss-fp720-2-channel-programmer-copy/

https://buyplumbingonline.co.uk/blog/post/how-to-set-up-fp720.html

Stupid-cheap: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295065882866?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110018&algo=HOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS&ao=1&asc=20200818141841&meid=1fcd57cb29434550b7f461abebcb6fcf&pid=101111&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=304146257111&itm=295065882866&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2563228&algv=ThematicAlgo&brand=Danfoss&_trksid=p2563228.c101111.m2109&amdata=cksum:2950658828661fcd57cb29434550b7f461abebcb6fcf|enc:AQAHAAAA8LwVoSbxFsxNTl7u%2B0ZoqBZSfEYcJ1KX%2BB6mKxNTotRvRAMM3DN8Y4%2F2RnclVbSb8npDrzIT74LpyHU5ANhvOyUJQc3lOFkxPupb%2BBUsrxd15W2AEXIhsTxPNr%2Bl75o1hsRFW0cMAwezvWKAtGbqkOaozhifPqeNkyqTRUZYDDhQQqoH0gP3uks%2BjVWv5xrp7ShG53fLrUxLglt4IgwogPDJXLTrY1xp87x1HzygFb1QkutaB5MZaE6bCkZPhUorpZUGjDZEPkI6qPW1HrbXKxNrG93a1VHY%2FF%2FQYVLYEOBNUqktxJW3EcWyKc%2Ft2ZxLYA%3D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2563228&epid=22038166602 (The pic of the backplate suggests it's a newer design, tho' wired the same way.

sujsuj

Bendy_House said:

sujsuj said:

At the moment when boiler switch H is ON, both HW & CH LEDs are glowing and no display. Nothing on the panel changes that, even reset option is not making any difference. See photo.

Ok, not quite 100% clear on this.

Are you saying that, when you turn boiler switch H on, the indicator lights on the programmer come on - as seen in that photo? I think you are.

But, are you ALSO saying that pressing any button on the programmer - the manual or advance or whatevs - doesn't make ANY difference - the lights remain on?

Yes, Power is on thats the way controller seen, no change or impact by pressing buttons.

But until I press Grundfos button it was working without display and I could switch on & Off with buttons of the Dunfoss controller also once in a while even display was appearing.!

Bendy_House

sujsuj said:

Yes, Power is on thats the way controller seen, no change or impact by pressing buttons.

But until I press Grundfos button it was working without display and I could switch on & Off with buttons of the Dunfoss controller also once in a while even display was appearing.!

So, as long as the power is on, the programmer's indicator lights are lit, and no pressing of any buttons makes it go off?

In which case your programmer is kaput.

It's 'unlikely' that the Grundfos 'caused' this to happen. It's quite possible, but unlikely. If the pump had a partial short-circuit inside it, then the extra power load from this could have damaged the switching contacts inside the programmer, causing them to weld closed (ie, 'on'). Pumps rarely do this, tho'. I think, more likely, is that changing the setting of the pump was just enough to push the already-failing prog over the edge.

The (hopefully) 3A fuse in the boiler switch didn't pop, either, so that also suggests no short-circuit.

BUT, there remains a risk that the pump is also kaput, and that it could damage the new programmer if just chucked in there! Really, I'd suggest it's time to get a sparky in. The components should be checked individually - eg the pump could be wired separately to the mains to see if it runs ok.

Your prog is shot regardless, so give some thought to the choice of replacement.