Please help !! looks like my adventure with Grundfos ALPHA2 L 15-60 130 gone wrong!

sujsuj

My Grundfos ALPHA2 L 15-60 130 was doing it job calmly without any fault, and one unfortunate day week ago I decided to press button on the front of it while it was glowing in Green. Now its not turning on at all. Till then it used to glow in green and showing mobile signal strength like display. Now my water heater or boiler working at all. Any tips to get this back to working state ...?

..See photos. 

I have another issue which might have prompted by to press that button, My Danfoss controller don't show any display, but it was turning on and off till I played with Grundfos above. So Please help me what immediate DIY I could do to get hot water. Long term what I need to do..? Thanks.

Bendy_House

Tips? Boxing gloves. It'll stop you messin'.

EDIT: First thing to try is to turn off the power to the CH system, wait 10 seconds, and turn it back on.

That 'mobile signal' icon will be speed, I imagine - the more bars, the faster it's running. Pressing that button will usually cycle through the speeds, so keep on pressing and see what happens...

Without the pump running, you ain't going to get hot water via your gas boiler, but at least you have an immersion heater.

The Danfoss - that's been telling you for a while it ain't well, and you just didn't listen

When you press the 'advance' or 'override' buttons to turn the wee light on and off, does it also go 'click'? When you turn the CH on, does THAT make the pump run?

It's hard to think of a reason why your pump would go kaput just from having its butt pressed, so I suspect all you've done is turn it off. But, I don't know.

That leak on the upper fitting needs sorting regardless...

Another wee test you can try is to manually move the lever on the side of the motorised valve. Go for the upper one - that's the DHW. Find the lever, understand what it does - readd the icons - and then slowly-but-firmly push it all the way to the far end; take about 2 seconds to do this, but make sure it DOES go tight against the far end. At the same time, listen for a 'click' from it as you reach the far end.

Does the pump and/or boiler fire up? Hold it firmly against the end for a few seconds. Then release the lever, and it should go back to the starting point under spring pressure. If it doesn't, see if you have caught the lever in a 'barb' that's cut in the slot which is designed to hold it there for certain jobs - just ease it out and it'll return.

Report back!

(Before doing anything, ID the location of the boiler isolation switch - possibly the LH one at the top, back wall? If anything goes pear-shaped, eg the boiler fires up but the pump doesn't, and you panic and can't turn the boiler off, just flick that switch off until you calm down again...)

Bendy_House

The 'mobile' icons indicate the 'auto' modes, where the pump is designed to find the best - and lowest - speed to do its job.

sujsuj

Bendy_House said:

Tips? Boxing gloves. It'll stop you messin'.

EDIT: First thing to try is to turn off the power to the CH system, wait 10 seconds, and turn it back on.

That 'mobile signal' icon will be speed, I imagine - the more bars, the faster it's running. Pressing that button will usually cycle through the speeds, so keep on pressing and see what happens...

Unfortunately its not switching on now, so I pressed Arrow button many times but its not turning ON

Without the pump running, you ain't going to get hot water via your gas boiler, but at least you have an immersion heater.

Looks like electric heater switch on the top is stoped heating water 2-3 months back, no hot water by electric heater either

The Danfoss - that's been telling you for a while it ain't well, and you just didn't listen

When you press the 'advance' or 'override' buttons to turn the wee light on and off, does it also go 'click'? When you turn the CH on, does THAT make the pump run?

Till I touched GRUNDFOS controller, though Danfoss stopped display it still was switching On water heater as per timer schedule, This display used come back once in a while. Now No display in Danfoss and GRUNDFOS is not turning green either

It's hard to think of a reason why your pump would go kaput just from having its butt pressed, so I suspect all you've done is turn it off. But, I don't know.
I pressed button the cycled through programs it turned off...?


That leak on the upper fitting needs sorting regardless...

Another wee test you can try is to manually move the lever on the side of the motorised valve.
which valve, so many are there..??

Go for the upper one - that's the DHW. Find the lever, understand what it does - readd the icons - and then slowly-but-firmly push it all the way to the far end; take about 2 seconds to do this, but make sure it DOES go tight against the far end. At the same time, listen for a 'click' from it as you reach the far end.

Does the pump and/or boiler fire up? Hold it firmly against the end for a few seconds. Then release the lever, and it should go back to the starting point under spring pressure. If it doesn't, see if you have caught the lever in a 'barb' that's cut in the slot which is designed to hold it there for certain jobs - just ease it out and it'll return.

Report back!

which valve, so many are there..??

(Before doing anything, ID the location of the boiler isolation switch - possibly the LH one at the top, back wall? If anything goes pear-shaped, eg the boiler fires up but the pump doesn't, and you panic and can't turn the boiler off, just flick that switch off until you calm down again...)

Added some more photos

sujsuj

A, B, C,E wires connected to D
D connected to F and F to G
H connected to F
I connected to J
there also a wire around H & I goes to D(


..??)

A - GRUNDFOS - (thats stopped working now)
B - ?? (similar to C)
C - ??
E - Water temp controller
D - ??
F - Danfoss Controller (that stopped display now)
G —??
H - Boiler Switch with fuse
I - Water heater switch (which used to heat up water, but not doing that for last 3-4 months)
J - controller on trhe top of water heater

Bendy_House

sujsuj said:

H turns your WHOLE CH system off - everything (or it should). That's the boiler, pump, programmer, and everything in between. If you need to shut it all off at any time, that's how to do it. (But if doing any electrical work to it, also isolate it at the CU - the 'fuse box'.)

I is your immersion heater - which you say doesn't work. Does the red neon light come on when you turn it on?

Bendy_House

sujsuj said:

Does your programmer do ANYTHING now?

When you press the 'manual' button, does that make the indicator light come on? And off again if pressed once more? Does it make a 'click' when it does this?

What about the DHW (tap) side?

sujsuj

Bendy_House said:

sujsuj said:

H turns your WHOLE CH system off - everything (or it should). That's the boiler, pump, programmer, and everything in between. If you need to shut it all off at any time, that's how to do it. (But if doing any electrical work to it, also isolate it at the CU - the 'fuse box'.)

I is your immersion heater - which you say doesn't work. Does the red neon light come on when you turn it on?

Yes H and I are Clear, now.., we switches OFF H only when we are on Holidays.
I can confirm when ' I ' is ON, light on the light on the switch glows. That heater may not be working for months as I used it only when I ran out of Oil, towards end of that it stopped working. IBy then I got Oil in the tank so not bothered to repair. Its condition is not linked to recent issues I have

BTW is there any checks I could do to see why ' I ' is not getting me hot water..? Item marked J is in the top of  water heater which I believes heats water inside lank. 

Bendy_House

sujsuj said:

B and C are motorised valves. B allows the hot boiler water to get to the cylinder to heat it up, and C allows the hot boiler water to get to the CH to heat your rads.

When the programmer says radiators 'ON', and the room thermostat also says 'please heat up this room', then motorised valve C should whirrr for a few seconds to allow flow, and the boiler and pump should come on at the same time.

For DHW, valve B does the same.

If you manually move either of these valves to their open position using the lever I mentioned, then they should 'trigger' the boiler and pump to come on, even if the programmer says 'OFF'. But, the valve needs to make a click at the end of the lever travel for this to happen.

E is, indeed, the tank thermostat, which is usually set to around 65oC, and that determines how hot the cylinder water gets.

D is the wiring centre - it has lots of connectors inside - you don't want to go there...

G is probably the cable going to the room thermostat in another room? Ignore that too...

Bendy_House

IF it's ONLY the pump that's failed, then the boiler should still fire up when called for. So try this:

1) Turn UP the room thermostat until it goes click.

2) Have someone standing next to the boiler ready to shout to you.

3) Press the manual or advance button on the radiator side of the programmer - you want the light to come on.

What happens? Anything?

4) Press the manual button again to turn the prog off.

sujsuj

Bendy_House said:

sujsuj said:

Does your programmer do ANYTHING now?

When you press the 'manual' button, does that make the indicator light come on? And off again if pressed once more? Does it make a 'click' when it does this?

What about the DHW (tap) side?

At the moment when boiler switch H is ON, both HW & CH LEDs are glowing and no display. Nothing on the panel changes that, even reset option is not making any difference. See photo.



But until I pressed Grundfos switch, (despite no display) it was heater turning own and off as per schedule. In between display also was shown. So there was no issues with hot water except fact that I couldn't change time when summer time started.