Radiator replacement

alice60

Is it the only way to fit in the radiator?
They say to measure the distance between the pipe centres for working out the radiator size? How can the radiator be fit in? Unless you can use bended pipes. Would be interesting to know as I can't  understand. Much appreciated.

ic

I think something's missing from your post, I can't make sense of the question.

Jeepers_Creepers

If the old rad was an 'imperial' or unusual size, then good chance a modern equivalent won't be a direct replacement. So, to make up for the different spacing between the valves and from the wall, you can use things like extending pipes (like you have on the RH side above) or cut and 'crank' the pipe using pipe fittings. Or, depending on access, drill a new hole in the floor and alter the pipework below floor level.

There is no 'correct' method, just more cosmetically-acceptable ways, but which will almost certainly cost more money.

All I can say is, the plumber should have explained the options to you beforehand.

alice60

Hi charged me £175, comparing to a plumber from outside who gave me a quote of £120. If I was happy with his service I wouldn't mind about the money. But there are so many issues. He did a good work for me for a new shower installation and I played as much as he said and was very thankful  Thank you very much for helping me.

gamston

why is the TRV valve head on its side ? normally they are upright, (still works ok just appearance wise)
as Jeepers says if old rad was imperial you need to put in extending pipe or change the copper pipework before the valves
if your valves work its easy to put in the extending pipe (i done that with some rads in my home) can't see from photos but maybe possible to put extender pipe both sides to sqaure up rad on wall 
if you wanted the copper pipework changed that means draining your system,
looking at your photo you could get the TRV valve side copper pipework extended so TRV valve enters rad at the top of the rad, but would that like nice,(i done that on a few rads that are not easier seen)
OR its lift the floor (tiles do you have spare tiles incase you break any ?) dig out the concrete, drain any water in the copper pipework thats in the floor (not easy) change the pipework so that the copper pipework comes out of the floor closer to the rad (again something I've done but its a big job)

alice60

I think if pipe was extended on both sides, it would  look much better.  They are the old valves which are in the same position as before. May I please ask you if a vent is a key for bleeding a radiator?  Is it included ? See the pct attached. Am I right? Thank you very much for your comments. 

neilmcl

alice60 said:

Hi charged me £175, comparing to a plumber from outside who gave me a quote of £120. If I was happy with his service I wouldn't mind about the money. But there are so many issues. He did a good work for me for a new shower installation and I played as much as he said and was very thankful  Thank you very much for helping me.

What issues? Please explain what problems you have with this installation?

Jeepers_Creepers

The 'key' in the top-left of your pic there is the 'rad bleeding key'. It fits in the 'bleed valve' which is the item immediately below it in that pic. The bleed valve has a  plastic collar around it that can be turned by hand, and you should see a wee hole in it pointing outwards - that's where the air and water will squirt from.

Hold a cloth in front of it and undo the central screw a half-turn using the key; just undo it enough until air/water comes out. As soon as water comes out (could be right away) then tighten it clockwise again. Jobbie jobbed.

With a tiled floor, I can see that your plumber would have been reluctant to go 'underground' with the pipe adjustments. That leaves the other two options - pipe extenders, and pipe bending (using offset elbows). For the latter, I think cosmetically it would be better to go for the next rad width up, and crank the pipes outwards to get to them.

Still annoying the guy didn't replace the TRVs - I think that was remiss.

FreeBear

Jeepers_Creepers said: The 'key' in the top-left of your pic there is the 'rad bleeding key'.

But the key is made of plastic and will break. Decent quality brass keys don't fit the Kudox nipples (or at least, the ones I've tried). It is as well that a flat bladed screwdriver is all that is needed.

alice60

I just wanted your confirmation as he didn't give me anything even it was me who bought the radiators using his measurements. The more you look at his work more faults I can find. The wall is scratched etc
But thank you all for your replies and time

alice60

Dear All, would you advise me to replace TRVs or  not? Many thanks.