New oven has a plug!

[Deleted User]

Just wire on a standard single socket onto the end of the original oven wire and plug new oven into that. If you can wire a plug and change a light bulb you can do this. Don't get ripped off by an electrician on this.

Heedtheadvice

NO!

A normal 13amp socket will not necessarily physically fit the larger diameter existing cooker cable.

If the existing outlet is just for a low power cooker then it might do but that cannot be guaranteed and most dedicated cooker circuits have a big current carrying capacity with the physically big cable. That cable is very unlikely to fit into the screw connections of a 13A socket and is so stiff it could very well damage the socket. Further the consumer unit needs properly rating for the cable (should already be so no issue there) and also the outlet to be used and there could be a problem there.

A trailing socket should not be used for a fixed installation.

Upsidedown's solution could be very workable (getting the outlet that fits the current backbox is much easier and is designed for providing a 13A outlet).

Given the apparent level of understanding of the OP and the downright incorrect posts by some (not most) the best course of action is to employ an electrician so see what the current installation provides and give a suitable and safe solution to the disconnection and reconnection. Non of us can do that remotely!!

This is another case of a little knowledge and freely given advice being a dangerous thing (potentially, if you will ignore the pun!!). Yes do not get ripped off but some cash to get the job done properly is well worth it.

(Landlords must do so, tennents not your responsibility and not your equipment so no authority to mess with it - probably!)

[Deleted User]

Heedtheadvice said:

NO!

A normal 13amp socket will not necessarily physically fit the larger diameter existing cooker cable.

If the existing outlet is just for a low power cooker then it might do but that cannot be guaranteed and most dedicated cooker circuits have a big current carrying capacity with the physically big cable. That cable is very unlikely to fit into the screw connections of a 13A socket and is so stiff it could very well damage the socket. Further the consumer unit needs properly rating for the cable (should already be so no issue there) and also the outlet to be used and there could be a problem there.

A trailing socket should not be used for a fixed installation.

Upsidedown's solution could be very workable (getting the outlet that fits the current backbox is much easier and is designed for providing a 13A outlet).

Given the apparent level of understanding of the OP and the downright incorrect posts by some (not most) the best course of action is to employ an electrician so see what the current installation provides and give a suitable and safe solution to the disconnection and reconnection. Non of us can do that remotely!!

This is another case of a little knowledge and freely given advice being a dangerous thing (potentially, if you will ignore the pun!!). Yes do not get ripped off but some cash to get the job done properly is well worth it.

(Landlords must do so, tennents not your responsibility and not your equipment so no authority to mess with it - probably!)

New ovens have been coming with 13amp plugs on for years, this isn't just a new thing. I have a 13amp socket on end of my oven wire and that went on no problem and has been on for 10 year plus. The other end of oven wire goes to an isolation switch on wall before it goes back to fuse box.

Hasbeen

Deleted_User said:

.

New ovens have been coming with 13amp plugs on for years, this isn't just a new thing. I have a 13amp socket on end of my oven wire and that went on no problem and has been on for 10 year plus. The other end of oven wire goes to an isolation switch on wall before it goes back to fuse box.

Oven WIRE ? Really. Sigh. Op should just get it done safely and correctly, no one here knows what set up is at OPs home.

What type of outlet on wall is, what is it rated at consumer unit if any, or what size of cable is from existing outlet.

Which really should have been disconnected there instead of at oven? so can ask questions, sadly not many replies about actual electrical situation. 

Best advice in this situation is to get electrician in and get it done safely and correctly. "repeated"

[Deleted User]

Hasbeen said:

Deleted_User said:

Heedtheadvice said:

NO!

A normal 13amp socket will not necessarily physically fit the larger diameter existing cooker cable.

If the existing outlet is just for a low power cooker then it might do but that cannot be guaranteed and most dedicated cooker circuits have a big current carrying capacity with the physically big cable. That cable is very unlikely to fit into the screw connections of a 13A socket and is so stiff it could very well damage the socket. Further the consumer unit needs properly rating for the cable (should already be so no issue there) and also the outlet to be used and there could be a problem there.

A trailing socket should not be used for a fixed installation.

Upsidedown's solution could be very workable (getting the outlet that fits the current backbox is much easier and is designed for providing a 13A outlet).

Given the apparent level of understanding of the OP and the downright incorrect posts by some (not most) the best course of action is to employ an electrician so see what the current installation provides and give a suitable and safe solution to the disconnection and reconnection. Non of us can do that remotely!!

This is another case of a little knowledge and freely given advice being a dangerous thing (potentially, if you will ignore the pun!!). Yes do not get ripped off but some cash to get the job done properly is well worth it.

(Landlords must do so, tennents not your responsibility and not your equipment so no authority to mess with it - probably!)

New ovens have been coming with 13amp plugs on for years, this isn't just a new thing. I have a 13amp socket on end of my oven wire and that went on no problem and has been on for 10 year plus. The other end of oven wire goes to an isolation switch on wall before it goes back to fuse box.

Oven WIRE ? Really. Sigh. Op should just get it done safely and correctly, no one here knows what set up is at OPs home.

What type of outlet on wall is, what is it rated at consumer unit if any, or what size of cable is from existing outlet.

Which really should have been disconnected there instead of at oven? so can ask questions, sadly not many replies about actual electrical situation. 

Best advice in this situation is to get electrician in and get it done safely and correctly. "repeated"

Sorry to burst your bubble but it was actually done by a qualified electrician so you can sigh all you like.

What he did I could have done myself hence not to get ripped off.

GDB2222

Ovens vary in the amount of current they draw. Lots come with 13 amp plugs, but other single ovens need to be hard wired. The absolutely obvious thing to do in the present case is cut the plug off and hard wire the oven to the existing socket. It takes around 5 minutes to do, and I assume that the oven is expected to last quite a few years. So, even if the OP needs to get someone in to do the job, that won’t be needed very often.

avoidtheupsidedownbottles

GDB2222 said:

Ovens vary in the amount of current they draw. Lots come with 13 amp plugs, but other single ovens need to be hard wired. The absolutely obvious thing to do in the present case is cut the plug off and hard wire the oven to the existing socket. 

But - that then leaves the flex without appropriate fuse protection

Ectophile

GDB2222 said:

Ovens vary in the amount of current they draw. Lots come with 13 amp plugs, but other single ovens need to be hard wired. The absolutely obvious thing to do in the present case is cut the plug off and hard wire the oven to the existing socket. It takes around 5 minutes to do, and I assume that the oven is expected to last quite a few years. So, even if the OP needs to get someone in to do the job, that won’t be needed very often.

But the breaker at the consumer unit is probably 32A, and there's no guarantee that the cable feeding the oven is designed to handle that sort of current if there's a fault in the oven.

Something in the UK with a plug should have a 13A fuse in the plug.  On continental Europe, it would be a 16A or 20A breaker at the consumer unit.

GDB2222

I stand corrected. Of course, in practice it’s done all the time, but you’re right. 

Hasbeen

Deleted_User said:

Hasbeen said:

Deleted_User said:

Heedtheadvice said:

NO!

A normal 13amp socket will not necessarily physically fit the larger diameter existing cooker cable.

If the existing outlet is just for a low power cooker then it might do but that cannot be guaranteed and most dedicated cooker circuits have a big current carrying capacity with the physically big cable. That cable is very unlikely to fit into the screw connections of a 13A socket and is so stiff it could very well damage the socket. Further the consumer unit needs properly rating for the cable (should already be so no issue there) and also the outlet to be used and there could be a problem there.

A trailing socket should not be used for a fixed installation.

Upsidedown's solution could be very workable (getting the outlet that fits the current backbox is much easier and is designed for providing a 13A outlet).

Given the apparent level of understanding of the OP and the downright incorrect posts by some (not most) the best course of action is to employ an electrician so see what the current installation provides and give a suitable and safe solution to the disconnection and reconnection. Non of us can do that remotely!!

This is another case of a little knowledge and freely given advice being a dangerous thing (potentially, if you will ignore the pun!!). Yes do not get ripped off but some cash to get the job done properly is well worth it.

(Landlords must do so, tennents not your responsibility and not your equipment so no authority to mess with it - probably!)

New ovens have been coming with 13amp plugs on for years, this isn't just a new thing. I have a 13amp socket on end of my oven wire and that went on no problem and has been on for 10 year plus. The other end of oven wire goes to an isolation switch on wall before it goes back to fuse box.

Oven WIRE ? Really. Sigh. Op should just get it done safely and correctly, no one here knows what set up is at OPs home.

What type of outlet on wall is, what is it rated at consumer unit if any, or what size of cable is from existing outlet.

Which really should have been disconnected there instead of at oven? so can ask questions, sadly not many replies about actual electrical situation. 

Best advice in this situation is to get electrician in and get it done safely and correctly. "repeated"

Sorry to burst your bubble but it was actually done by a qualified electrician so you can sigh all you like.

What he did I could have done myself hence not to get ripped off.

No problem Lee. Apologies the sigh was about the use of wire, it is usually called cable or even flex in circumstances. But as usual stand to be corrected.

If you had an electrician in and he wired it as you say, then he obviously checked all, right back to consumer unit to ensure connection was safe. Then there would no problem plug to socket but it would be better on wall fixed than lying on floor.

In the ops case there will be no checks? as the general advice here? is just to connect a socket to the existing cable and connect the plug.

But most of the advice to the OP is I suspect DIY and there is not I think not enough info from OP. Then would in the circumstances still advise Electrician.