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Ideal logic boiler and Hive query

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  • 1, Yes all that does exactly as you say. Responds properly.
    2, Yes. The red link is removed and there is no link in the Hive either as multiple threads on the interweb say is correct.
    3, Nope.

    Yes disconnect it and nothing. Plug it back in and it fires up. If you look at the image Jefaz posted and other images of the link on the internet, with the clip facing up it is the left hand and middle pin that are linked. Do this and the boiler is on for heating constantly.

    I'm picking up the proper link shortly so will see....
    Cheers.
  • Jeepers_Creepers
    Jeepers_Creepers Posts: 4,339 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 30 December 2020 at 11:20AM
    Ok, thanks for that. Hmmmm.

    Do you know what a 'series' circuit is? One item connected to another in a 'chain' - break that chain and the whole circuit fails? I think it's important that you follow what's going on in this wiring, so it makes sense to you - that way you'll hopefully have a 'lightbulb' moment :-)

    Imagine two switches connected in series, and that they control your boiler. BOTH switches need to be closed in order for the boiler to come on. Open EITHER of these two switches and the boiler stops. Makes sense?

    That's what you have in your boiler; one 'switch' is the purple link where the original receiver was and the other is the red link. For the boiler to work, you need to complete the whole circuit. You do this by either having both links in place (in which case the boiler stays on constantly) or else you decide which controller you want to use - the original wireless receiver (purple link) OR the new Hive receiver (red link). You remove the link you no longer need, and you replace it with the appropriate receiver. I'm sure you follow that ok.

    Right, now consider what is happening in your situation. You don't want the original receiver, so you've removed it and linked the purple contacts. Cool - that's good. Does the boiler behave as you imagine? Yes it does; if you also add the red link, the boiler comes on. If you remove the red link the boiler goes off. Yes? Cool.

    Now you replace the red link with your Hive receiver. What happens? The boiler comes on. Cool - except, the boiler STAYS on whether the Hive receiver says 'on' or 'off'. Regardless of whether the 'boiler on' light is lit or not, your boiler stays on.

    What does that tell you? It's clearly 'wrong'. But where? Is it the boiler or the Hive? Well, if you disconnect the Hive at the 'red' terminal, the boiler goes off - as it should; you've broken the circuit. So, the boiler is working fine.

    What isn't, therefore, working fine? It must be the Hive receiver. It is clearly saying 'on' whether the green light is on or off.

    It would appear from what you are telling me that even IF the green 'FLAME' symbol on the Hive receiver is UNLIT (ie - 'boiler OFF'), terminals 1 and 3 in that receiver are still being connected to each other. Does that make sense?

    If that's the case, then the Hive receiver is faulty. By far the most common reason for this symptom is that it was at one point connected incorrectly with the mains connected across the switching terminals (eg 1 and 3) and short-circuited, and the resulting spark welded the two switching terminals inside together.

    If everything you have told me is correct, that's the only conclusion I can come to I'm afraid.

    I'm hoping it's just a wiring mistake - ie you haven't reported things correctly. :-)
  • PaulB9
    PaulB9 Posts: 5 Forumite
    First Post First Anniversary
    Hi,
    Yes I know what a series circuit is.

    Just to update this thread for anyone else and it worked but not by using the purple link cable (that just made the boiler run for heating constantly) but by using Ideal Link Timer plug part no. 175625 which plugs into the 5 pin connector. This completes the circuit.
  • Thanks for the update, and nicely worked out. :-) 
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