Ideal logic boiler and Hive query

Jeepers_Creepers

Great stuff Jefaz :-)

I wondered about how it would carry on working after the old receiver was removed! A bludy link! :-(

Won't Fix'sit need 4-core cable (+E) if the boiler control terminals are volt-free - L, N and then the two terminals with the existing red link go to 1 and 3 on the Hive receiver? 

jefaz07

Jeepers_Creepers said:

Great stuff Jefaz :-)

I wondered about how it would carry on working after the old receiver was removed! A bludy link! :-(

Won't Fix'sit need 4-core cable (+E) if the boiler control terminals are volt-free - L, N and then the two terminals with the existing red link go to 1 and 3 on the Hive receiver? 

Technically yes, HOWEVER 4 core won’t go into the wiring centre on the boiler and may not fit in the grommets.
It also states in the MI (top right on attached pic) it should be 3 core not less than .75

I do it this way;
Spur to junction box
2 feeds out of junction box, 1 for permanent live to boiler 1 for perm live to receiver. 

Then 1 switch wire from reviver to boiler. 

Hope that makes sense. 

Jeepers_Creepers

Thanks. So the Room Stat/Timer connections are not volt-free, but take a switched live to control the boiler? 

PaulB9

jefaz07 said:

These are the bits you need 

Hi Jefaz,
Thanks for posting this, I couldn’t work out why when my new Hive fired up the boiler just sat idle. I assume it’s because of this link. Inside there are two plugs, the one the front timer is/was connected to and a 5 pin one.  Which one is it that needs the link as on the plumber wholesale sites they only show a 5 pin version?

Thanks.

Jeepers_Creepers

Do you HAVE this purple link? Doesn't that go where the original receiver was plugged in to on your boiler front?

That link by-passes that receiver, so the boiler would now run constantly - until you remove that RED wire link in the wiring box. Your Hive receiver would connect in there instead of that red link, but don't do this until you are certain you know how.

What I don't understand about the two terminals - 'room stat/timer' - is which one is 'live' and which is the 'switched control', because they have no markings on them. Or are either of them 'live' at all - are they volt-free?

Best wait for Jefaz. :-)

PaulB9

No we don't have it however I'm most likely going to take the existing controller and solder the 2 wires together to create my own!

Yes Hive is running fine and connected to the correct part of the boiler and fires up but won't fire the boiler up. I have removed the red link cable as described but this is the last bit not tried so got to be this.

Jeepers_Creepers

Whooaaa!

There are three wires going to that existing receiver? And the purple link connects two of them? Do you KNOW which two? If not, please don't connect two of these three wires until you do.

When it then comes to the RED link, yes you remove this, but then you need to insert your Hive's switching terminals into this instead.

How is your Hive currently wired? I presume you have a Live and a Neutral going to the receiver to power it? That's fine. But what else? In essence what you need is your Hive to 'switch' the two terminals which currently have the RED link on them. Ie, you REMOVE that red link and INSERT the Hive's Switching Terms 1 and 3 in there instead. But keep the Hive's mains supply away from these terminals - DON'T link 'L' to '1', for example, because there's a chance that your boiler's RED-LINK terminals are 'volt free' and you'd fry your PCB if this were the case.

So, (a) you need to find out which two wires to that OLD receiver you need to join together (ie what the purple link is like), and (b) you need to connect the Hive's switching terminals (1 and 3) to the two terminals that the RED link is CURRENTLY connected to.

Jeepers_Creepers

I can't see it in this pic either, but perhaps just worth buying? https://www.heatingspareparts.com/boiler-spares/partno/179052/414936

Or else PM Jefaz for clarification.

PaulB9

Done all you mention. Red link removed and switching from Hive added instead and on 1 & 3 of Hive. That’s definitely all correct.

 It’s got to be this timer link that needs replacing and tried it today by studying the image and seeing which pins are looped. It kept the boiler fired on so wasn’t that. I’ve got the 5 pin timer link version for collection tomorrow so trying that instead. 

Jeepers_Creepers

PaulB9 said:

Done all you mention. Red link removed and switching from Hive added instead and on 1 & 3 of Hive. That’s definitely all correct.

 It’s got to be this timer link that needs replacing and tried it today by studying the image and seeing which pins are looped. It kept the boiler fired on so wasn’t that. I’ve got the 5 pin timer link version for collection tomorrow so trying that instead. 

Ok, so at the moment you definitely have:

1) L and N supplies going to the Hive receiver? The green 'power' light is on? Turning up the Hive stat makes the green 'Boiler ON' light on the receiver ALSO come on? And it goes OFF a short while after turning the stat back down? That all works, yes?

2) The TWO 'room stat/timer' terminals that USED to have the RED link across them NOW go to Terms 1 and 3 of the Hive receiver? And that's all they go to?

3) NONE of these 4 wires mentioned above, which are going to the Hive receiver's L, N, 1 and 3 are connected to ANYTHING ELSE or EACH OTHER in ANY way? You have NO 'loops' at the Hive receiver?

Ok, if you have done all that AND unplugged the boiler's original receiver - so there is NOTHING connected to that connector where the purple link WILL be going - then your boiler will not be firing up at all. As you've sussed, you now need to by-pass that old receiver, and that is done using the plug-in purple connector. You reckon you've worked out the correct two terminals to connect? How CERTAIN are you? Where did you get this info? (Bear in mind that if you connect two wrong terminals, you'll likely short the power supply, so will blow a fuse at least.)

If your Hive receiver has its green 'boiler' light OFF, and linking the two wires of that 'purple' boiler connector still makes the boiler come on and stay on, then try this: undo ONE wire at the RED 'stat/timer' connector - effectively removing the Hive from the circuit - and see if the boiler shuts down. (BEAR IN MIND THIS WIRE COULD POSSIBLY BE LIVE).

Does the boiler now shut down?