Radiator question

Mutton_Geoff

I'd turn off all radiators except this one. Then run the heating and see how it behaves. Turn the pump speed up (usually knob on side of pump).


Very often plumbers do not balance radiators as it takes too long. You will probably find the radiator closest to the boiler (pipe wise, not necessarily in physical distance) will have it's lockshield fully open which means if it's stat or other side is fully open, it hogs all the water.


Balancing takes time and care. Worth investing in a handheld infrared non contact digital thermometer (less than £20) to enable you to quickly measure the in/out water temps at your rad. Make a table and write down all the readings as you take them.


Rads with low difference values are hogging the water, turn the lockshields closed more. Whenever I do this I find the water hogging rads need their lockshields turned right down, only open 1/4 to 1/2 turn at most. This then allows more water to flow to the rest of the house.


For every adjustment you make, it affects the flow in the rest of the rads, so care and time are important. Let the heating stabilise and the house be up to temp before trying to measure. It's no good taking in/out temps of cold radiators.

The 12C drop is intended to let the radiator perform to manufacturers spec by allowing it to dissipate a certain amount of energy out of the water before sending that back to the boiler.


In a perfect world, all the water going back to the boiler will be 12 degrees less than it left, letting the boiler also work to it's best performance (see makers spec). If the water is too hot going back to the boiler (radiator nearby "short circuit") then it will shut down too soon, too cold and it won't run efficiently.


Look up your boiler spec online, you'll find a recommended temperature drop range for it to be working at.


The pump speed can then be reduced once rads are more or less balanced.

https://www.diydata.com/projects/centralheating/balancing/radiator_balancing.php

Lgas

Mutton_Geoff wrote: »

Rads with low difference values are hogging the water, turn the lockshields closed more. Whenever I do this I find the water hogging rads need their lockshields turned right down, only open 1/4 to 1/2 turn at most. This then allows more water to flow to the rest of the house.

https://www.diydata.com/projects/centralheating/balancing/radiator_balancing.php

Yes, I'd be looking at the new towel rail particularly, try turning this one right down as they hog the heat. If the other valves are hard to turn you can take the plastic heads off and use a spanner but be warned, old valves may leak.

another_casualty

Okay, before I explain my actions as best I can , I must remind you that my boiler is in the small bedroom under the window . Not ideal, but I've got to live with it . So :

The rad closest to the boiler couldn't be switched off on the valve, as there was no way of turning it . The normal temperature adjuster was ok . I did however manage to eventually turn all valves off .

So I turned on the problematic one in the living room first , left that for about 20 mins . Not much difference . I gradually turned on each rad and will see what gives . It was a pita , especially the kitchen one . Talk about sticky . Also I had to use a wrench on some .
Plus , one or 2 of the plastic heads look bent . I was worrying incase I caused major damage when twisting , so I was being overly cautious

Not sure what to do next ..:o

mollycat

another_casualty wrote: »

Okay, before I explain my actions as best I can , I must remind you that my boiler is in the small bedroom under the window . Not ideal, but I've got to live with it . So :

The rad closest to the boiler couldn't be switched off on the valve, as there was no way of turning it . The normal temperature adjuster was ok . I did however manage to eventually turn all valves off .

So I turned on the problematic one in the living room first , left that for about 20 mins . Not much difference . I gradually turned on each rad and will see what gives . It was a pita , especially the kitchen one . Talk about sticky . Also I had to use a wrench on some .
Plus , one or 2 of the plastic heads look bent . I was worrying incase I caused major damage when twisting , so I was being overly cautious

Not sure what to do next ..:o

Hello OP.

I don't wish to appear unkind or contentious, but from your post I've quoted above it's not clear to me that you have understood the kind and detailed instructions given by @Mutton Geoff on balancing.

Maybe it's easier to watch someone explain it rather than read instructions?

What about a Youtube video? Search for "how to balance radiators". It's pretty straightforward once you see someone else do it.

Apologies if you have understood, tried and for some reason have not managed.

Good luck.

another_casualty

Thanks mollycat
It seems that I should try again , fully from the beginning . The videos were very helpful . I think that it's because I couldn't get that rad In the small room turned off properly . Not much space to twist as it is near a wardrobe . Will try again tomorrow

another_casualty

Okay, I've balanced the rads at last . I found the right sized pliers to turn valves off . Unfortunately , the problem is still there . The main bedroom rad is similar to the living room one .
As I mentioned earlier, there is no place to put a rad key which is normally at the top of the radiators .

So, on Friday afternoon i called Reactive , a company with who I took out boiler cover with back in the spring . I had to contact them again yesterday and received a call from an ' engineer' . He sounded like he was on another job . When I told him the problem , he thinks it may be that a powerflush is needed . I'm still awaiting him getting back to me . He said he would call me either today or tomorrow .
So , it looks like a costly job .

I'll let you know the outcome ..

vic_sf49

Wow, someone else on the planet is going through the same radiator faff as I am. I have a large double radiator that was hot at the top, and cold at the bottom, and this is where I've got to...

My boiler service chap suggested taking the radiator off, and flushing it through with a garden hose to remove any sludge. Did that, and not much sludge came out, but then I don't suppose it takes much to block up radiator. Refitted it, and it worked for a week.

Turned all the other TRVs to 'off', then ran the heating. Radiator worked for about 6 days.

My latest fix, was to take the TRV off the problem radiator, and so far so good. So maybe the TRV head is faulty, the pin underneath that is a bit stiff, or both.

Keep your fingers crossed please everyone.

keith969

I've never, ever had a powerflush. In fact I'd never heard the word until I visited her, 10 years or so ago.

Having had similar issues (rad in one room never getting very warm) the answer was one rad hogging all the hot water - one without a TRV. Turning it down to just a 1/4 turn open made a huge difference.

another_casualty

Thanks chaps . When turning the valves back on, I also turned them on with a half to one turn ..except the problem ones where I turned them all the way up . TBH , the radiators that are problematic are rather long ,and removing them would be a p I t a .
One other thing I may have mentioned : the person who I purchased the flat from let it out to various tenants . These included people with young childreen , pulling at things etc . This may mean that , these rads have been neglected . I had boiler trouble last year which was costly ..

another_casualty

Just a brief update .. the engineer never showed up or phoned. It's not urgent and it is Christmas time etc . Thankfullly it's still mild and I can afford to be a little laid back as I usually am .
I'll give them a call next Friday , and ask then for a visit . I've only had this policy since June so it's barely six months . That may mean some thing it may not .. anyway merry Christmas