On-grid domestic battery storage

Solarchaser

The lux will see whatever is generated, whether that's 2kw or 10kw, it will still display. 
A 9.6 battery can be charged fully on 70%, during the go period of 12:30 and 4:30 as this is what I do on both of my stacks

mickyduck55

Solarchaser said:

The lux will see whatever is generated, whether that's 2kw or 10kw, it will still display. 
A 9.6 battery can be charged fully on 70%, during the go period of 12:30 and 4:30 as this is what I do on both of my stacks

Not in my freezing garage

Starfrog

mickyduck55 said:

Solarchaser said:

The lux will see whatever is generated, whether that's 2kw or 10kw, it will still display. 
A 9.6 battery can be charged fully on 70%, during the go period of 12:30 and 4:30 as this is what I do on both of my stacks

Not in my freezing garage

So should i ensure that my battery storage is in a warm area currently in garage but i can actually use underfloor heating in the garage as its part of my workshop area ?

Starfrog

EVandPV said:

You need a smart meter to get onto Go or Agile unfortunately.

Is your Lux a hybrid inverter ? That is, does it convert the dc from your solar to ac as well as controlling the batteries ?
Or do you have an inverter for solar and another (Lux) for the batteries ?

I think it is its a AC ESS 3.6kw and i think my emphases microinverters do all the DC to AC conversion there IQ 7+ ones. What i did just notice is that there was a 10kw consumer draw and the grid was giving 6.8  the solar 2.9kw and the batter 1.3kw so can the solar and battery via the lux inverter only ever supply the house demand up to 3.6k ? Which means ill always have a pull from the grid for showers and cooker ? Is there such as thing as a Low power electric cooker !! 

EVandPV

Starfrog said:

EVandPV said:

You need a smart meter to get onto Go or Agile unfortunately.

Is your Lux a hybrid inverter ? That is, does it convert the dc from your solar to ac as well as controlling the batteries ?
Or do you have an inverter for solar and another (Lux) for the batteries ?

I think it is its a AC ESS 3.6kw and i think my emphases microinverters do all the DC to AC conversion there IQ 7+ ones. What i did just notice is that there was a 10kw consumer draw and the grid was giving 6.8  the solar 2.9kw and the batter 1.3kw so can the solar and battery via the lux inverter only ever supply the house demand up to 3.6k ? Which means ill always have a pull from the grid for showers and cooker ? Is there such as thing as a Low power electric cooker !! 

Ok so you have the same Lux as me which controls only the batteries.
With 4.8kwh, you get 2.4kw input/output. To get the full 3.6kw, you need at least 7.2kwh of batteries. For more than 3.6kw, you would need 2 Lux inverters (Solarchaser can give you more details on that).

The amount of power your pv inverter can supply will depend on it's spec. I would image that if you've got a 5.46kw array, the pv inverter will be around 5kw as they're usually rated a bit lower than the pv array.

And yes, best to keep the batteries at room temperature if possible to ensure they can supply and charge at full power. Below a certain temp, the max input/output power will drop.

Starfrog

EVandPV said:

Starfrog said:

EVandPV said:

You need a smart meter to get onto Go or Agile unfortunately.

Is your Lux a hybrid inverter ? That is, does it convert the dc from your solar to ac as well as controlling the batteries ?
Or do you have an inverter for solar and another (Lux) for the batteries ?

I think it is its a AC ESS 3.6kw and i think my emphases microinverters do all the DC to AC conversion there IQ 7+ ones. What i did just notice is that there was a 10kw consumer draw and the grid was giving 6.8  the solar 2.9kw and the batter 1.3kw so can the solar and battery via the lux inverter only ever supply the house demand up to 3.6k ? Which means ill always have a pull from the grid for showers and cooker ? Is there such as thing as a Low power electric cooker !! 

Ok so you have the same Lux as me which controls only the batteries.
With 4.8kwh, you get 2.4kw input/output. To get the full 3.6kw, you need at least 7.2kwh of batteries. For more than 3.6kw, you would need 2 Lux inverters (Solarchaser can give you more details on that).

The amount of power your pv inverter can supply will depend on it's spec. I would image that if you've got a 5.46kw array, the pv inverter will be around 5kw as they're usually rated a bit lower than the pv array.

And yes, best to keep the batteries at room temperature if possible to ensure they can supply and charge at full power. Below a certain temp, the max input/output power will drop.

My pv array has individual panel microinverters so not sure there is an overall inverter number take a look at emphase IQ7+ the panels are Jasolar 455w each 12 of them. So my if my house pull is greater than the 3.6 then it will always pull from the grid ? 

Solarchaser

mickyduck55 said:

Solarchaser said:

The lux will see whatever is generated, whether that's 2kw or 10kw, it will still display. 
A 9.6 battery can be charged fully on 70%, during the go period of 12:30 and 4:30 as this is what I do on both of my stacks

Not in my freezing garage

Sorry mate, wasn't trying to rub it in 😳

You got anywhere with insulating the batteries yet?

Solarchaser

Starfrog said:

EVandPV said:

You need a smart meter to get onto Go or Agile unfortunately.

Is your Lux a hybrid inverter ? That is, does it convert the dc from your solar to ac as well as controlling the batteries ?
Or do you have an inverter for solar and another (Lux) for the batteries ?

I think it is its a AC ESS 3.6kw and i think my emphases microinverters do all the DC to AC conversion there IQ 7+ ones. What i did just notice is that there was a 10kw consumer draw and the grid was giving 6.8  the solar 2.9kw and the batter 1.3kw so can the solar and battery via the lux inverter only ever supply the house demand up to 3.6k ? Which means ill always have a pull from the grid for showers and cooker ? Is there such as thing as a Low power electric cooker !! 

I don't have micro inverters myself, but I understood they still went through a main inverter themselves.

If you have say a 9kw shower, and your batteries are charged and it's a bright sunny day, then with your 5.5kw of solar and 2.4kw of battery then you will only need to "buy" 1.1kw of power.
The two systems are independent of each other. And can act together to reduce grid draw.

My system has 2 banks of 4 batteries supplying two lux inverters so I have theoretical output of 7.2kw, but if the showers are on at night or early morning with no solar, then I'm still buying 1.8kw of power. 
If its midday with decent solar, id expect to shower for free.

mickyduck55

Solarchaser said:

mickyduck55 said:

Solarchaser said:

The lux will see whatever is generated, whether that's 2kw or 10kw, it will still display. 
A 9.6 battery can be charged fully on 70%, during the go period of 12:30 and 4:30 as this is what I do on both of my stacks

Not in my freezing garage

Sorry mate, wasn't trying to rub it in 😳

You got anywhere with insulating the batteries yet?

No problem... no too lazy maybe in the spring.. I'm only missing out on about 1kW a day and TBH I'm mostly getting through without any full price import

Starfrog

strange I thought I had posted the reply.  I think that the Powerlux AC ESS 3.6kW only allows to to draw 3.6KW ? as I notice that when I look at the enphase monitor it always looks like the solar panels peaks at 3.5 in production  having said that the enphase monitor says 15.9kWh of production for today via solar but the powerlux monitor says 13.6kWh in yield ? which one to believe!! Anyway im thinking that the if my house has a demand for 8kwh due to shower or cooker or whatever and my inverter can only max at 3.6 then isn't that the limit I can give the house and the rest is a straight pull from the grid ? regardless of how much I have in my Battery or what the solar panels is giving out ? I think the situation will change when I move over to the air source heat pump and using underfloor heating as well as the hot water cylinder should be much less electrical use by getting rid of the electric shower, also getting new cooker which will move away from the very old cooker the is in there with a newer induction cooker with fan assist oven, let time cooking and hob more efficient than old style coil.