loft legs/stilts for making storage space in loft

sk240

Another vote for using lengths of timber to raise the level, its much more sturdy than stilts

Fat_Walt

seatbeltnoob wrote: »

The lateral pressure isn't going to be much, it just need to prevent the boarding falling sideways when someone trips and puts lateral pressure on it. Based on the feedback above the stilts are stable enough to walk on.

The hose is a terraced house and it can simply be anchored to each of the brick insulation wall on two ends.

Yes they are.

Go into Wickes or Toolstation and have a look for yourself.

stator

I've used a combination for my loft.
Remember to measure the height of your loft, you might not be able to stand if you raise the level of the floor.
I replaced the insulation in the central 1/3 of my loft with 75mm solid PIR board and then put chipboard loft flooring over the top, this is roughly equivalent to the fluffy type insulation. Then in the eaves I used Loft Legs or Loft Stilts to support a shelf made of random bits of wood over the top of the existing fluffy insulation.
The Stilts (B&Q ) are better than the Legs (Wickes, Toolstation) because they have a clip that goes nicely over the joist and makes it easier to screw in. The Legs you have to hold in place and screw at the same time, which is hard when you get into the eaves, trying to balance on the joists and not bang your head The legs are a little bit shorter too, so might not be able to accomodate all of the insulation, depending on your joist height etc
If you want to do it so you can walk on you need a lot of legs/stilts per board to make it stable. If you're just doing shelves in the eaves you don't need so many

seatbeltnoob

Fat_Walt wrote: »

Yes they are.

Go into Wickes or Toolstation and have a look for yourself.

Wickes and toolstation (same group) and Swcrewfix & B&q (same group) have these stilts but for some reason they're more dearer at the trade supplies than with the retail.:rotfl:

Gloomendoom

I converted the 4" joists into 12" deep engineered joists when I boarded the loft. It is now rock solid with no creaks or movement.

Fat_Walt

Gloomendoom wrote: »

I converted the 4" joists into 12" deep engineered joists when I boarded the loft. It is now rock solid with no creaks or movement.

Where did you buy them?

Furts

Fat_Walt wrote: »

Exactly, I boarded my last loft by building up the level with timber. I sold to a very particular buyer who sent a surveyor with a list of extras they wanted checking. He was most impressed I'd raised the level to allow for the insulation and said most people don't bother and compress the insulation. How true that was in the new house.

All sorts of issues arise from compressed insulation, to condensation, to mould, to lack of ventilation, to overloading roof trusses to name just some.

Countless lofts get altered by well meaning DIY folks who do not appreciate, or perhaps do not care, about the problems that can be created.

seatbeltnoob

I only have a shallow 100mm layer of insulation. I will be using 175mm stilts. on top. Shall I use another 100mm of insulation on top (going tangental to the existing insulation) Or can I opt for 170mm insulation and max it up?

Also I'm guessing the raised loft boards should not be running edge to edge as I planned by should have gaps around the sides for humidity to escape.

Grenage

Get as much as you can in, so another 170mm.

Furts

seatbeltnoob wrote: »

I only have a shallow 100mm layer of insulation. I will be using 175mm stilts. on top. Shall I use another 100mm of insulation on top (going tangental to the existing insulation) Or can I opt for 170mm insulation and max it up?

Also I'm guessing the raised loft boards should not be running edge to edge as I planned by should have gaps around the sides for humidity to escape.

Ideally you should have an air gap above the insulation, and have it vented.

270mm insulation is minimal and barely to current requirements. Future proofing should also be given thought so think about 300mm+.