loft legs/stilts for making storage space in loft

seatbeltnoob

Hi

I need to use the loft for storage space, I come across the loft legs/stilts that lifts the floor up higher so you can have more insulation in the loft.

I don't know if this will do the trick though, Will the board which is held up by the stilts be OK to walk on? I get the feeling that if you try to walk on it it may all buckle from lateral pressure.

Anyone with personal experiences?

Fat_Walt

I've used them they're fine.

TheCyclingProgrammer

You could look at LoftZone kits if you want something a bit sturdier (more expensive though).

Jonesya

Rather than the loft legs I used some 6"x2" timber as cross battens - it gives ~14cm of space, so doesn't squash the 15cm of top-up insulation down hardly at all. Fitted a few metal angles to it and the joists so it's very stable and spreads the load.

This, although I got mine from B&Q:
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Studwork-%28Cls%29-38-x-144-x-2400mm-Single/p/101857

seatbeltnoob

I think loft legs should be ok if the boards butt up against the rafters and walls which will give them lateral stability.

Furts

seatbeltnoob wrote: »

I think loft legs should be ok if the boards butt up against the rafters and walls which will give them lateral stability.

Remember most roofs are weak and with trussed rafter roofs there is very little timber to get a fixing int. Couple this with the woeful loft boards sold in the DIY sheds and the omens are not positive.

Also remember there are homes that fail to sell, or sales are delayed, because of loft boarding.

scottishblondie

We used Loft Legs and boarded the loft in our new build in 2012. It doesn't feel unstable in any way, absolutely fine to walk on. You do need to be aware of how much the stuff you're planning to store weighs though, so as not to overload the whole structure.

Kiran

Jonesya wrote: »

Rather than the loft legs I used some 6"x2" timber as cross battens - it gives ~14cm of space, so doesn't squash the 15cm of top-up insulation down hardly at all. Fitted a few metal angles to it and the joists so it's very stable and spreads the load.

This, although I got mine from B&Q:
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Studwork-%28Cls%29-38-x-144-x-2400mm-Single/p/101857

I did something similar to this when I boarded out my last loft. I also fixed a timber to the external wall and used joist hangers as I was also boarding out so the boiler could be installed and maintained

Norman_Castle

Furts wrote: »

Also remember there are homes that fail to sell, or sales are delayed, because of loft boarding.

Why?......

Fat_Walt

Norman_Castle wrote: »

Why?......

Exactly, I boarded my last loft by building up the level with timber. I sold to a very particular buyer who sent a surveyor with a list of extras they wanted checking. He was most impressed I'd raised the level to allow for the insulation and said most people don't bother and compress the insulation. How true that was in the new house.

seatbeltnoob

Furts wrote: »

Remember most roofs are weak and with trussed rafter roofs there is very little timber to get a fixing int. Couple this with the woeful loft boards sold in the DIY sheds and the omens are not positive.

Also remember there are homes that fail to sell, or sales are delayed, because of loft boarding.

The lateral pressure isn't going to be much, it just need to prevent the boarding falling sideways when someone trips and puts lateral pressure on it. Based on the feedback above the stilts are stable enough to walk on.

The hose is a terraced house and it can simply be anchored to each of the brick insulation wall on two ends.