Sound reduction in bathroom wall

Possom

I'm aware that if rolls of floor insulation are installed below a timber floor that one also has to use a net to hold the roll up to the floor to allow continued air circulation.

I think there is a similar product roll which can be purchased but which reduces sound. I was considering installing this in the cavity of the wall beside where the bath/shower is.

Does some sort of similar net have to be installed to keep the roll affixed to one side of the cavity wall, and allow air circulation, or is it simply nailed against one of the walls meaning it won't block the entire cavity?

Thanks!

Doozergirl

It's a different scenario.

Condensation risk is to the joists under the sub floor and in the roof space as they are more subject to the elements and ventilation is essential.

The risk isn't within internal walls. You use acoustic insulation. No worries about needing air gaps, but don't overstuff it so much as it can defeat the object.

phil24_7

You can buy dense sound insulation that you can cut to size. These can then be jammed in between studs, leaving an equal (ish) gap either side. I would then double board the walls, firstly with sound board (making sure the whole perimeter and the gaps between each board are filled with acrylic/acoustic sealant) then with regular/moisture/cement board, depending on the actual location.

brightontraveller

normal "insulation" doesn’t stop sound anymore than a sheet of paper would....


If you’re going down the insulation type soundproof route Don’t use the ones that come in rolls apart from being pretty rubbish they sag
Use the slab/block type which you simple cut and friction fit ( push in place)

Avoid any thing like Knauf /isover Acoustic Partition Wall Roll etc
use Rockwool RWA45 Acoustic Insulation Slab or alike

If thickness is the issue look at closed cell foams, High density, polymer based, rubber sheet Remember its separation for impact sounds, varying density for airbourne will get best results

Possom

phil24_7 wrote: »

You can buy dense sound insulation that you can cut to size. These can then be jammed in between studs, leaving an equal (ish) gap either side. I would then double board the walls, firstly with sound board (making sure the whole perimeter and the gaps between each board are filled with acrylic/acoustic sealant) then with regular/moisture/cement board, depending on the actual location.

So perhaps first insert Rockwool RWA45 Acoustic Insulation Slab, leaving an equal gap on each side. What size of gap on each side? Then fill any surrounding gaps with acrylic sealant.

Then on top of this insert a regular/moisture/cement board. Is this also surrounded with acrylic/acoustic sealant (the wall is in a bathroom beside the shower)?

Why is this second board added instead of just only insulation slab?

brightontraveller

If its airborne sounds coming through there are a number of ways if used with a existing brick/block work party wall etc .

1/Add stud work to existing wall. can be timber or acoustic
http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/building-materials/plasterboard-plaster/metal-stud-partitioning/acoustic-stud.html

2/ in-between studs fit acoustic slab E.g. rockwall RWA45
http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/rockwool-rwa45-acoustic-insulation-slab.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=datafeed&utm_campaign=google-shopping&m=configurable_scp&gclid=CNDjo4K3zc4CFWEq0wod9DcH1Q

3/ Add soundproof plasterboard e.g Gyproc Sound Bloc
http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-soundbloc

4/ Seal around edges with acoustic sealant e.g AC95 Intumescent Acoustic Sealant &
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p59088?mkwid=sNnOeoeKA_dc&pcrid=66162785783&pkw=&pmt=&product=59088&gclid=CIvmmou2zc4CFQu3Gwodt2wEqA

5/ Add another layer of soundproof plasterboard e.g Gyproc Sound Bloc and again seal around edges AC95

6/ Final layer of waterproof board of choice before tiling etc

If its impact and airborne then after stages 1/ + 2/ add resilient bars then plasterboard etc
http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/building-materials/plasterboard-plaster/metal-stud-partitioning/acoustic-stud/resilient-bar-pk10.html

You must remember that sound will travel through, along and around, I’d also consider adding an acoustic plaster before stud work the finish doesn’t need to be great as its being covered over reasonably flat will do
http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-soundcoat-plus


Alternative to soundproof plasterboard has better soundproofing qualities but not cheap used against a brick or block work party wall.

http://www.ikoustic.co.uk/product/mute_board_4?gclid=CID56Ma0zc4CFUMo0wodfHAMbA

Possom

brightontraveller wrote: »

If its airborne sounds coming through there are a number of ways if used with a existing brick/block work party wall etc .

1/Add stud work to existing wall. can be timber or acoustic
http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/building-materials/plasterboard-plaster/metal-stud-partitioning/acoustic-stud.html

2/ in-between studs fit acoustic slab E.g. rockwall RWA45
http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/rockwool-rwa45-acoustic-insulation-slab.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=datafeed&utm_campaign=google-shopping&m=configurable_scp&gclid=CNDjo4K3zc4CFWEq0wod9DcH1Q

3/ Add soundproof plasterboard e.g Gyproc Sound Bloc
http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-soundbloc

4/ Seal around edges with acoustic sealant e.g AC95 Intumescent Acoustic Sealant &
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p59088?mkwid=sNnOeoeKA_dc&pcrid=66162785783&pkw=&pmt=&product=59088&gclid=CIvmmou2zc4CFQu3Gwodt2wEqA

5/ Add another layer of soundproof plasterboard e.g Gyproc Sound Bloc and again seal around edges AC95

6/ Final layer of waterproof board of choice before tiling etc

If its impact and airborne then after stages 1/ + 2/ add resilient bars then plasterboard etc
http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/building-materials/plasterboard-plaster/metal-stud-partitioning/acoustic-stud/resilient-bar-pk10.html

You must remember that sound will travel through, along and around, I’d also consider adding an acoustic plaster before stud work the finish doesn’t need to be great as its being covered over reasonably flat will do
http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-soundcoat-plus


Alternative to soundproof plasterboard has better soundproofing qualities but not cheap used against a brick or block work party wall.

http://www.ikoustic.co.uk/product/mute_board_4?gclid=CID56Ma0zc4CFUMo0wodfHAMbA

Wow, that's a lot of info there!

The wall is not a party wall, but a wall between the bathroom shower and a bedroom. So I wanted to reduce noise travelling from the shower through to the bedroom.

It's timber frame wall with plaster on the bedroom side, and currently T&G timber panelling on the bathroom side, though this will be removed.

If I add 1) acoustic stud, is this added to the vertical timber frame sections within the wall?

There are different thicknesses shown in the link ranging from 43mm to 92mm, is the thickness determined from the thickness of the timber wall frame?

If I got, for example, the 43mm acoustic stud, would I then get the 40mm thick slab?

Is 3) Gyproc Sound Bloc then simply nailed onto the full face of the wall as per standard plasterboard?

I notice the SoundBloc comes in 12.55mm and 15mm thicknesses. I know double glazing manufacturers will use one pane of one thickness and the other pane of a different thickness if the intention is to break up sound waves as the change in thickness can achieve this. If attaching two SoundBlocs on top of each other as you suggest, then it might be an idea to have one as the 12.5mm and the other as the 15mm thickness.

Your 2nd last link, Gyproc Soundcoat Plus, it states that it improves the acoustic performance of masonry walls. Once the wall is opened up, the wall visible will be the plasterboard wall from the bedroom, so perhaps this may not be suitable in this instance since not a masonry wall.

brightontraveller

You don’t have to use an acoustic stud if there is already a stud wall there (It may add slightly higher sound reduction which sometimes is needed)
Remove T&G t paneling, fit rockwall RWA45 slab in existing stud, add soundbloc etc (You could remove plasterboard on opposite side but timber t and g is normally easier cheaper and quicker to remove.)
Soundbloc different thickness partly about weight (putting sheets up on ceilings) but as with rockwall RWA45 different thickness provides higher sound reduction. Thickness of slab depends on stud thickness, required sound reduction etc 50mm is normally pretty good though and fits in most stud walls.
If you can remove T and G carefully so it can be refitted try just adding RWA45 in stud refitting T and G The level of sound reduction required varies so doing some or all may give you the level you require.

Possom

brightontraveller wrote: »

You don’t have to use an acoustic stud if there is already a stud wall there (It may add slightly higher sound reduction which sometimes is needed)
Remove T&G t paneling, fit rockwall RWA45 slab in existing stud, add soundbloc etc (You could remove plasterboard on opposite side but timber t and g is normally easier cheaper and quicker to remove.)
Soundbloc different thickness partly about weight (putting sheets up on ceilings) but as with rockwall RWA45 different thickness provides higher sound reduction. Thickness of slab depends on stud thickness, required sound reduction etc 50mm is normally pretty good though and fits in most stud walls.
If you can remove T and G carefully so it can be refitted try just adding RWA45 in stud refitting T and G The level of sound reduction required varies so doing some or all may give you the level you require.

The wooden frame batons which the wall is constructed from have a gap between them of 29cm, and are 9cm deep.

I would have liked to retain the 1930s T&G on the wall, though as there will be a shower raining water down on it, I've been informed it would be ill-advised to retain it due to the potential for rot. That is, even if painted with linseed oil paint or yacht paint.

phil24_7

Possom wrote: »

So perhaps first insert Rockwool RWA45 Acoustic Insulation Slab, leaving an equal gap on each side. What size of gap on each side? Then fill any surrounding gaps with acrylic sealant.

Then on top of this insert a regular/moisture/cement board. Is this also surrounded with acrylic/acoustic sealant (the wall is in a bathroom beside the shower)?

Why is this second board added instead of just only insulation slab?

Nope.

Use the rockwool slab (I used 50mm in my wall) then an air gap is left either side (put it dead centre of the stud leaving an equal gap either side for running services).

Then use soundboard fixed to the studs. This needs to be sealed around the perimeter and between each board with acrylic acoustic sealant (readily available from tool station).

Then use a second layer of normal plasterboard/moisture board/cement board (stager the joints) and plaster as normal.

Regards
Phil

phil24_7

I have insulated between my bedroom and my lads and you can hardly hear him in there unless 1 of the doors is open.

I only went with 1 layer of soundboard and one of plasterboard as I figured the differing densities would help stop more sounds.

I did both of the rooms at the same time (removing the old lath and plaster and renewing the studs) so I have: plaster/plasterboard/sealed soundboard/25mm gap/50mm sound insulation/25mm gap/sealed soundboard/plasterboard/plaster.