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Sound reduction in bathroom wall
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The RWA45 Acoustic Insulation Slab appears to be 1200mm X 600mm in size.
Since the gap width between the studs is 29cm, then if I cut this in two, I'll get two 30cm wide sections which I'll have to trim back to fit within the gaps.
I can trim back to leave an air gap on either side.
If there are no services running up between two particular studs, should an air gap still be left on either side?
What width of air gap would you leave on each side?
I understand that you mean for the RWA45 to be positioned in between the vertical wooden wall batons, but I'm not 100% sure if you mean for the additional SoundBloc to then also be cut (with air gaps) to fit on top of the RWA45 but still in between these vertical wooden batons?
Or is the SoundBloc not positioned between these batons, but actually nailed in full sheet form onto the face of the batons (as per standard plasterboard)?0 -
What it looks like the shiny horizontals are resilient bars you probably wont be fitting them if there is electric cable cover with trunking ( insulation de-rates cable ) If no electric cables etc doesnt matter were slab is reference stud position cut it to size push it in
http://www.freeindex.co.uk/media/listingpics/325/38/019(1).JPG
Screw not nailed in full sheet onto the face of the stud (as per standard plasterboard)
http://www.londonsoundproofing.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Baton-Wall-View-1.jpg0 -
The RWA45 Acoustic Insulation Slab appears to be 1200mm X 600mm in size.
Since the gap width between the studs is 29cm, then if I cut this in two, I'll get two 30cm wide sections which I'll have to trim back to fit within the gaps.
I can trim back to leave an air gap on either side.
If there are no services running up between two particular studs, should an air gap still be left on either side?
What width of air gap would you leave on each side?
I understand that you mean for the RWA45 to be positioned in between the vertical wooden wall batons, but I'm not 100% sure if you mean for the additional SoundBloc to then also be cut (with air gaps) to fit on top of the RWA45 but still in between these vertical wooden batons?
Or is the SoundBloc not positioned between these batons, but actually nailed in full sheet form onto the face of the batons (as per standard plasterboard)?
Yes, cut the board to the right width (290mm) rather than cut a board in half first. You may find the studs are slightly different distances apart.
The Rockwool can be bought in different thickness's, just buy 50mm, it should suit your needs.
The sound board is just a different plasterboard so gets screwed directly to the studs with a second layer of standard board over this.0 -
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I didn't get any photos of the rockwool as it was a little itchy so just wanted it in so I could get washed!0
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Cheers Phil. I see what you mean now.
The gap between the studs is 290mm, so I can get two 290mm sections from a slab.
What about the air gap though? How many millimetres of air gap should there be on each side of the slab?
If there are no services running up between two particular studs, should an air gap still be left on either side? Or just have the slab tight to the vertical timber wall batons?0 -
As I said, the studs aren't likely to be all the same distance apart.
Don't worry about the size of the gap. Just get 50mm rockwool and fit it in the centre of the stud leaving an equal-ish distance on either side.
This should do the job you need. If you require any more sound proofing then things start getting a lot more expensive.0 -
As I said, the studs aren't likely to be all the same distance apart.
Don't worry about the size of the gap. Just get 50mm rockwool and fit it in the centre of the stud leaving an equal-ish distance on either side.
Ok, I think I understand now.
So the intention isn't to leave a sizeable air gap on each side of the slab.
Since the studs won't be equally spaced, there will inevitably be a gap along the sides. So just try to minimise the gaps (unless there are services to run down between one particular pair of studs), and equalish any gap as much as possible to each side.0 -
Nearly there. The slabs should be a snug fit in between the studs. There should not be any gaps around the slabs as this will drastically reduce the effectiveness of the slab. Slabs should be evened up depth wise unless you need a bigger gap one side to run services.
Correct about the rest.0 -
Nearly there. The slabs should be a snug fit in between the studs. There should not be any gaps around the slabs as this will drastically reduce the effectiveness of the slab. Slabs should be evened up depth wise unless you need a bigger gap one side to run services.
Correct about the rest.
Oh I see. So the air gaps which you had mentioned previously is the gap directly between the area (face) of the slab and the soundproof plasterboard which is subsequently nailed over this?
When the slab is inserted in between the studs, I suppose since it's tight to the studs it possibly doesn't need to be nailed in in any way to secure it?0
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