SportKa MOT advisories question - oil leak

AliceBanned

Thanks Joe, that's reassuring. As long as I can get more of the shiny bit right around the edges tomorrow, I'll continue to do the job myself. Next instalment tomorrow!

BeenThroughItAll

AliceBanned wrote: »

Thanks Joe, that's reassuring. As long as I can get more of the shiny bit right around the edges tomorrow, I'll continue to do the job myself. Next instalment tomorrow!

Good on you for having a go and not giving up.


Keep us informed - as I said earlier the only definite fix will be cut out and replace the rusty metal, but that's not a job for right now. Just doing what you're doing will significantly slow down the tinworm.

salubrious

Of course it is your choice, but if there are holes present now, it clearly is excessively corroded.

Anyone with experience of these cars and in particular mot'ing and welding them up will advise you to deal with it now rather than later.

kurust is something that can slow corrosion down, and in respect of your problem, to help stop it spreading. But, don't be put under the impression that slapping it over the part that is actually corroded is going to do anything because it will do very little, especially on what I am seeing in your pictures.

Applying it around the edges, if you can get back to bare metal which you seem to be struggling to do, most likely through lack of the right tools (don't waste your time with wet and dry, use a grinder with a flap disc) and experience will help the most, but that doesn't help the area that is already affected (which is of your most concern?)

Whoever said drill where the pin holes are and put some rubber bungs in isn't dealing with the problem they are hiding it. They probably wear a stetson hat too

Good luck with it

AliceBanned

Thanks everyone. Yes perhaps lack of the right tools is the problem.


I am on leave this week and meant to tackle it again today, but have done nothing as I went cycling with a friend. Have to have some fun.:)


But tomorrow I'll be back on it again first thing. My friend today does a lot of his own car maintenance - he had a look and said anything I do will keep it going another year or two, as Joe said. After that it will need the sill replacing but he said that isn't too major.


I won't put the kurust on until I get to the edges of the rust patch along each side. I am not sure yet about the two pinholes. Anyway I'll post another pic tomorrow. Maybe I can hire the right tool or borrow one, as it probably isn't worth my while buying one as I don't intend to do this too often. I just want to keep the car another few years if I can though. This is the first sign of rust - never had this problem before.

AliceBanned

BeenThroughItAll wrote: »

Good on you for having a go and not giving up.


Keep us informed - as I said earlier the only definite fix will be cut out and replace the rusty metal, but that's not a job for right now. Just doing what you're doing will significantly slow down the tinworm.

Thanks, I think now I've started I want to get it done myself.

AliceBanned

salubrious wrote: »

Of course it is your choice, but if there are holes present now, it clearly is excessively corroded.

Anyone with experience of these cars and in particular mot'ing and welding them up will advise you to deal with it now rather than later.

kurust is something that can slow corrosion down, and in respect of your problem, to help stop it spreading. But, don't be put under the impression that slapping it over the part that is actually corroded is going to do anything because it will do very little, especially on what I am seeing in your pictures.

Applying it around the edges, if you can get back to bare metal which you seem to be struggling to do, most likely through lack of the right tools (don't waste your time with wet and dry, use a grinder with a flap disc) and experience will help the most, but that doesn't help the area that is already affected (which is of your most concern?)

Whoever said drill where the pin holes are and put some rubber bungs in isn't dealing with the problem they are hiding it. They probably wear a stetson hat too

Good luck with it

Thanks. I get the message that it is a temporary fix, but I will do a proper job on the temporary fix, or if I really can't I will have to get it done professionally. I am going to have another go tomorrow. Not sure whether I can get a grinder. I will try again manually first.


My friend said the rust will return in a year or two, if I clear it up and use the kurust etc. At that stage I can take it to a welder. At least I will know this is on the horizon and I will keep an eye on it.

AliceBanned

You were right Joe Horner - a bit of wet sanding has worked a treat!


I was about to hire a grinder as well..but tried this first. Not sure whether I've got enough off yet - grateful for comments on this. Pic to follow, just uploading.

AliceBanned

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1bvnvwugrfv8nwe/2015-04-09%2010.35.51.jpg?dl=0


https://www.dropbox.com/s/og47cynxnl8qcn4/2015-04-09%2010.36.11.jpg?dl=0

AliceBanned

The second pic is the edge of the sill - hard to capture whole patch on one pic as it goes from the flat bit facing the ground up over the edge of the sill facing upwards.

AdrianC

Getting there, but you still need to get further out. You've still just got to the edge of the actual grot, not to bright metal.