SportKa MOT advisories question - oil leak

Joe_Horner

colino wrote: »

OK, I will guarantee that the picture indicates both an area of rust from within and one accelerated either by a kerb or jack knock to the exterior sill. It will, I guarantee, turn into a hole when scraped.
Please keep on making ill informed comments, I'm sure it entertains some, especially that the NT caused the damage in the picture using a PAT. He would have been sacked by now, even if he had the miracle skill to make his recent, "prod" just as rusty as the already, badly, deteriorated sill.
You really don't understand the 30mm sphere the NT has to visualise when assessing a car for rust, the car passed, but that rust isn't going away and it will be a mess in 3 months time, never mind next MOT.
7 numbered points to say nothing and still no advice to the OP what to do with the damage you have suggested creating. Well done, keep on gathering your, "evidence".

What rot (excuse the pun).

An NT is perfectly entitled - in fact, expected, - to examine blisters within prescribed areas. For something like that within a prescribed area he would have to go further than just looking at it or he's not testing correctly.

The corrosion assessment tool is used (when used correctly) for tapping (lightly) and, where needed, light scraping. Both of those would inevitably remove paint from a blister like that, as would testing the strength with thumb or finger pressure. Neither of those are "causing damage" provided he doesn't carry on beyond what's needed to assess the area. in this case he's assessed it as structurally sound.

I'm also well aware of what a prescribed area i - don't forget, I've been running 1960s and '70 classic cars as dailies for the past 10 years and been doing all my own maintenance and repairs - including welding - for the past 35 or so and never had a problem with what's required. Any perforation of structure or supporting panelling within a prescribed area is a fail and, from what's been posted by the OP, that's within the prescribed area for the lower seat belt mount.

Of course, if you can assess it from one photo on the internet better than a qualified tester who had the car in front of him (and found it as an advise) can then I bow to your (obviously God-like) abilities.

Regardless of that, if you're so adamant that it is a hole under there then what the hell do you think you're doing by advising the OP to ignore it or cover it (as is) with rust converter? That's telling her to continue driving a car that (in your opinion, and against that of the tester) shouldn't have passed its MOT without repairing it.

Advice like that has no place on here!

AliceBanned

Thanks Joe - I'm going to have a go at the weekend, probably Saturday so I will post again with pics.


I had a quick look and tap on the way home - really the steel feels solid..it isn't as bad as it looks. It does look, as you suggest, that something has hit it and gradually the paint has come off over that part. This has caused that bit to rust as I didn't spot it. I'm no expert but it isn't a rust bucket, it is a well looked after car, apart from over the past year.

AliceBanned

benje302 wrote: »

I had a KA for 5 years and they are great run-a-round cars but as said before - RUST is a major issue with them. Another place to watch out is rust around the petrol cap. This is the car rotting from the inside out as they do not have wheel arch liner (StreetKa does though).

A great place to jion and visit is the KA forum at

www.fk-oc.com

They are a great bunch and many of them can answer any question you can throw atthem.

Hope it helps


Thanks. Mine is SportKa which is a high spec as the StreetKa.

AliceBanned

Well it's a pretty damp day here in Herts, but not raining. I am thinking of going to Halfords to get some Kurust and whatever else I need.


Just wondered - is the Kurust to ensure that all bits of rust are gone from the metal, before applying anything? So at first I am basically, with tools and Kurust, trying to get off all the rust?


I'm not worried about doing it as it will need doing anyway, and as people have said on here, there is a hole there anyway if one shows up. I don't want to leave it too much longer with the rust.

Joe_Horner

Yes, Kurust (or similar) converts rust to iron phosphate which is stable. You use it to try and make sure that you don't leave any rust behind under the new paint.

AliceBanned

OK thanks. Have been to Halfords, got the Hammerite, wire brush and wet and dry sanding paper. Will have a crack at it this afternoon and post pics hopefully.

Joe_Horner

If it's anything like round here then it's good weather for it today

AliceBanned

Hi Joe, glad you've got good weather too. It's nice to be outdoors, even doing this!


I've scraped away at it with wire brush and another sponge thing which is quite tough. I haven't added any rust remover yet as I'm not sure at which point to do this. The edge is quite tricky and I think I need to remove some more of the paint to get at the bubbly bits? I am not sure how far the rust extends under the paint. Should I remove more paint at the edges? Pics to be uploaded any minute!

AliceBanned

Here they are https://www.dropbox.com/s/d228bxyol8ycne7/2015-04-07%2016.10.51.jpg?dl=0


https://www.dropbox.com/s/9c33g7h5t363lym/2015-04-07%2016.11.43.jpg?dl=0


Thanks for the advice!

BeenThroughItAll

I'd scrape that a bit more around the edges, then flat back with wet and dry until you can see shiny metal around the edges of the rusty patch.


Is it just me, or is there a pinhole about 2/3 of the way across and halfway down on the first picture?