Limp Mode?

w00519772

I own a Volkswagen Golf 2.0 TDI GT 5dr. I have had it for about five years.

When I am driving; if I go above 4,000 revs the car slows down and then will not rev above 3,000 revs and will not go above 50 MPH. I believe it may go into limp mode, but no light appears on the dashboard. Once I switch the ignition on and off the problem goes away.

I took it to a local garage and the mechanic could not find anything wrong with it. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? I did not have a great deal of confidence in the mechanic. I may take it somewhere else.

Ballbags_2

I think you have answered your own question, you need to take it somewhere else.

=rizla=

I had a car than would cut out at 3k rpm every time. My Bluetooth OBD2 reader didn't have a code, a mobile mechanic's reader was the same. I took it to a specialist diagnostic garage who had a lot of gear and within minutes found the crankshaft position sensor to be at fault. Cost me £70 and £15 for the sensor (DIY fit) but cheaper than playing swap the most likely bit game.


If its the same revs every time, and drops to the same revs then it does sound like a limp home mode, but I think normally the engine management light should come on (does it work??)


I'd call a few diagnostic specialists up (and maybe a VW one if you have one locally) and see what they say.

Strider590

You need to get the fault codes read off the ECU.

But then this is probably also a common fault, as VW Golf is apparently a terribly unreliable car (if you listen to people who have actually owned since the mid 80's), a brief search on Google shows there's a chance of sticking turbo fins.

neilmcl

If it is indeed going into limp mode could it be the DPF?

What sort of mileage/journeys do you do?

Might be worth taking it to a VW specialist.

arcon5

Or the turbo. I've seen this happen with a dodgy actuator, excess MAP detected, restricts engine speed to prevent it causing damage.

But without hooking it up to a reader it's all guess work.

w00519772

I asked this question several days ago: https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/5187431

I took the car to the Voltswagon garage today and they tell me that two lights came on behind the scenes:

turbo overboost fault
glow plug cylinder

They have advised that they require another £275 to confirm whether the turbo overboost fault is caused by either: actuator; wiring or turbo. If it is the turbo then it will cost another £1500, whereas the actuator costs £200 and the wiring just £30..

I have spoken to another local garage who seem to think they can confirm whether the turbo is at fault for just £45 (instead of £275) and fix the glow plug cylinder for £45 instead of £276.92. They have also said that they can recondition the turbo for £900 (instead of £1500 for a new turbo).

I am interested to receive some feedback on all of this. I believe I have three options:

1) Buy a new car and trade this one in. I reckon it is worth £4500. Not sure how much this problem will take off the value.
2) Ask the Voltswagon garage to make the repairs. The prices do seem to be very high.
3) Ask the backstreet garage to make the repairs. This will mean that I am left with a reconditioned turbo rather than a new one.

The three options above assume that the turbo is at fault. It could still be the Actuator or wiring though I think it is unlikely.

SuperAllyB

By no means an expert but I'd go for 3 as long as you know/trust the "backstreet garage".

Dealers will crucify a trade-in if the EML is on in my experience.

gilbert_and_sullivan

A ''back street garage'', unless it happens to specialise in VW cars or Diesels is not the place to get a second opinion.

I'd be hot footing it round to one or the other though, preferably a proper Diesel workshops.

Anyway, what's a glowplug cylinder when it's at home.

arcon5

Looks like I was right in my desktop diagnostics

Option 3 imo, Ask a backstreet garage to do it. I think you should be able to bring the price down a lot more potentially.

You need to establish exactly what the fault is... if the actuator then this shouldn't cost the earth. It's my understanding turbo damage itself often results in the engine being underpowered.

Did you still have a full pan of oil?
Any smoke pi55ing out?
These can help indicate what has actually happened inside.

If the turbo itself has failed, try a reconditioned one off ebay. Looks like they come as part of a full inlet manifold unless you can find a mechanic skilled enough to remove the cartridge and restore a new one, with new actuator etc and a significantly lower cost than quoted.

w00519772

arcon5 wrote: »

Looks like I was right in my desktop diagnostics

Option 3 imo, Ask a backstreet garage to do it. I think you should be able to bring the price down a lot more potentially.

You need to establish exactly what the fault is... if the actuator then this shouldn't cost the earth. It's my understanding turbo damage itself often results in the engine being underpowered.

Did you still have a full pan of oil?
Any smoke pi55ing out?
These can help indicate what has actually happened inside.

If the turbo itself has failed, try a reconditioned one off ebay. Looks like they come as part of a full inlet manifold unless you can find a mechanic skilled enough to remove the cartridge and restore a new one, with new actuator etc and a significantly lower cost than quoted.

Yes, I think you were right. The mechanic also agrees with you with regards to the actuator i.e. a damaged actuator usually occurs with underpowering. It sounds to me like the turbo. How much would you expect a new turbo to cost seconds hand?