Locking wheel key

bluesnake

look on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgVp7h6Jbwk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJdXiYUJa1k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJUUyjJqk5A

GlynD

Paradigm wrote: »

I'd have nicked them too

We solved the problem by purchasing locking valve caps. I jest ye not. There was a little allen headed grub screw in each one which was tightened with the teensiest allen key I've ever seen.

It worked though - no more nicked valve caps.

thenudeone

If you know the garage where the car was bought from new, they may be able to tell you what the original key number was. (worked for me).

However, the VX locking nuts are very prone to damage. I've ruined a couple while trying to remove air-gun tightened nuts, so now I always loosen the nuts and apply a nut anti-seizure grease (can't remember the name) after every tyre change.

colino

You should never use anti-seize grease on wheel bolts/studs.

GlynD

colino wrote: »

You should never use anti-seize grease on wheel bolts/studs.

Can you explain why Colino because I would always have used grease, when available, on wheel nuts.

colino

Anti seize compounds not only do what they say on the tin, but have enhanced creep properties over ordinary grease and lubricants. By introducing them in a critical fixing like a wheel bolt/nut, you are actively seeking to reduce friction, overtime, in that fixing. Anti seize, like copperease, can be used as a very thin smear on the hub mating flange to help prevent the wheel, especially alloys, from corroding on. Anywhere else is not only bad engineering practice but is unnecessary and plain daft.

oldagetraveller

Plus they will be prone to over tightening because the grease/anti-seize acts as a lubricant/friction reducer on the threads.
I.e. the torque wrench will "break" later rather than when it should without lubricant.

GlynD

colino wrote: »

Anti seize compounds not only do what they say on the tin, but have enhanced creep properties over ordinary grease and lubricants. By introducing them in a critical fixing like a wheel bolt/nut, you are actively seeking to reduce friction, overtime, in that fixing. Anti seize, like copperease, can be used as a very thin smear on the hub mating flange to help prevent the wheel, especially alloys, from corroding on. Anywhere else is not only bad engineering practice but is unnecessary and plain daft.

oldagetraveller wrote: »

Plus they will be prone to over tightening because the grease/anti-seize acts as a lubricant/friction reducer on the threads.
I.e. the torque wrench will "break" later rather than when it should without lubricant.

I see, so really we should just use an ordinary (for want of a more technical word) grease. The sort of thing a lot of us might keep long term in the shed or garage for wee jobs?

AndyPK

Key should have a number on it.

bluesnake

GlynD wrote: »

I see, so really we should just use an ordinary (for want of a more technical word) grease. The sort of thing a lot of us might keep long term in the shed or garage for wee jobs?

Mmmm, I've never used any, but I am no expert either.

I was more under the impression since the wheel was held on by screw friction, that it would be better for the the nut to seize, and at worst cost me money to be taken off and pay for a new wheel rim, than come loose while doing speed over a long distance.