Locking wheel key

GwylimT

GlynD wrote: »

I see, so really we should just use an ordinary (for want of a more technical word) grease. The sort of thing a lot of us might keep long term in the shed or garage for wee jobs?

You shouldn't be using any really, all greases will have the same effect, some to a lesser extent, but its something I wouldn't advise. Using greases can damage the thread, meaning that it comes to a point where you need a new wheel, bit pricey for the sake of a few nuts being slightly easier to remove.

Richard53

I believe that all manufacturers quote wheel nut torque as 'dry', i.e. fitted without any lubricant. If you grease the stud before fitting, you may over-tighten the nut as explained above, and there is a greater risk of the nut loosening without the thread friction to keep it tight. To a degree, you want the threads to corrode slightly, as this keeps the nut secure. Corrosion isn't really an issue, as the fixings are big and it's easy to get a serious tool to the job. Personally, I am quite happy that my wheel nuts threads are a bit stiff, even if breaking them free needs a bit more effort.

Having said that, I have greased some wheel nuts and not greased others, and I have never had a wheel fall off, or a stud snap from overtightening.

If you want to use some grease, then use it on the back of the wheel where it contacts the hub, which will prevent it seizing on (common with alloy wheels). A thin smear of copper grease will do fine.

Richard53

GwylimT wrote: »

Using greases can damage the thread, meaning that it comes to a point where you need a new wheel

How can using grease damage the thread?

How can damaging the thread mean a new wheel?

GwylimT

Richard53 wrote: »

How can using grease damage the thread?

How can damaging the thread mean a new wheel?

When you over tighten you are normally not following the thread pattern, so you will often find an over tightened stud/nut sits with thread on thread, instead of thread in groove. This wears away the thread far quicker, it can also lead to more movement which can cause the tyre to wear quicker in certain areas, require more frequent tracking and in some cases the nut snapping, or the wheel coming loose.

Often if you have thread on thread the movement you get during a drive can damage the wheel quite severely, especially an alloy, it can cause small cracks to occur where the wheel is secured due to the movement (often a very slight side to side action, not something you can see or feel when driving, but easily picked up when tracking), in some cases you have to bin the wheel as it has damaged the integrity of the alloy, it does seem to be more common in newer alloys, then again they also seem to corrode quicker. In other cases you just need to replace the hub, or get a new set of nuts.

Richard53

GwylimT wrote: »

When you over tighten you are normally not following the thread pattern, so you will often find an over tightened stud/nut sits with thread on thread, instead of thread in groove. This wears away the thread far quicker, it can also lead to more movement which can cause the tyre to wear quicker in certain areas, require more frequent tracking and in some cases the nut snapping, or the wheel coming loose.

When people have been talking here about over-tightening it has been about lubricating the threads which reduces the friction that the manufacturer will have allowed for when specifying the torque for the fastener. This will allow a greater torque on the nut than has been specified and may lead to failure.

You are talking here about cross-threading, which is completely different.

GwylimT

Richard53 wrote: »

When people have been talking here about over-tightening it has been about lubricating the threads which reduces the friction that the manufacturer will have allowed for when specifying the torque for the fastener. This will allow a greater torque on the nut than has been specified and may lead to failure.

You are talking here about cross-threading, which is completely different.

Over tightening causes cross threading.

red_eye

Len5 wrote: »

Hi,
I am not sure if anybody can help me, but I need a new tyre for my car and the locking key has been worn down too much that it can no longer be used. So basically I am wondering if I need to go to the dealer (Vauxhall) to order a new key or will any key that is suitable for Corsa's fit? I need to remove the nuts on my wheel.
My only problem is when I bought the car the wheel locking kit did not have a code in that come with the set, so I am not sure if I will be able to get the exact key.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

anything up to £40 per wheel to remove the locking wheel nut, some places like kwik fit might have a stash of keys in one of the mechanics boxes.......this is where your key ends up when they forget to put it back in your boot!


you say warn down never seen a warn down key before only over tightened and cracked/broken keys

red_eye

GwylimT wrote: »

Over tightening causes cross threading.

wrong, over tightening will strip the threads (unlikely on a wheel stud unless using a 1" impact gun for HGVs) and can cause hub distortion.

cross threading on a wheel nut is putting the nut/bolt on/in in a way where the threads cross ie on the !!!!

the two on the left are on the !!!!

http://www.structuremag.org/letterstoed.aspx

red_eye

GlynD wrote: »

We solved the problem by purchasing locking valve caps. I jest ye not. There was a little allen headed grub screw in each one which was tightened with the teensiest allen key I've ever seen.

It worked though - no more nicked valve caps.

locking wheel caps= £15

needing to fill tyre up with air only to find that the grub screw has sized and rounded the hex of the screw and the cheap supplied tool= PRICELESS

and having to drive to tyre fitters with a flat to see if they can remove the cap......the look on your face when your told that because you drove on a flat the tyre is now scrap = PRICELESS!!!

Len5

Thank you everyone for you answers. I have now bought a new locking key from ebay. The seller was fab and I sent a photo over and he advised which one would fit. Plus it was cheaper than going to the dealer.
Thank you all once again.