We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.

This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.

📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!

Firewood - How to chop, store and light?

12346

Comments

  • For storing:

    I built a log store out of a pallet which keeps the wood off the ground, and allows air to circulate around the wood. This dries it out but keeps the precipitation off it. You can google "log store plans" and see what others have done.

    Using:

    It's worth noting that you shouldn't burn freshly cut wood, but take a few months to let it dry out completely. If you get into a routine, you can burn last years wood, and store this years cutting. I remember reading that wood of even 40% moisture will struggle to burn, so it needs to be as dry as possible to be effective!
  • If your logs are too long then get your log supplier to supply to the correct length. A good supplier will do this for you albeit at a premium price.

    Whatever you do don't try to cut short logs even shorter with a chainsaw unless you are very experienced or have a wish to go upstairs sooner.

    Although I buy in most of my my wood (4 cubic metres at a time) already cut and split I have my own chainsaw for cutting whole logs (6 foot plus) when I can get them free. However, chainsawing small lengths is not worth the risks. Certainly don't chainsaw along a log unless you really do have a death wish.

    If you insist in getting a chainsaw Google some safety tips and you'll find out how dangerous these things can be. I had a chain come off and I was lucky it didn't take my face off! Also watch out for "kick back". This is when the chainsaw can come back and up towards your upper body at high speed if the top front quarter tip area of the chain\bar hits touches the wood (hence previous "rip your throat" comment).

    Chainsaws are great tools but beware! I can't stress how dangerous these things can be.

    Now, when it comes to splitting wood don't bother with anything that you need to lift over your head such as an axe or maul. These can be very effective after many hours of sweaty practice but very easy to have a log fly off in a direction that you would least expect. You'll also run a very good chance of pulling a rib\shoulder\back muscle which believe me is painful. I did this and bought a V Smart Splitter was worth every penny (can't post link but just Google it).

    Also got it with the Smartholder. Great combination, saves time and effort.

    But as I say it's better to get your wood supplied in the correct size to start off with in the first place.
  • sandy2210 wrote: »
    ahhhhhhh been reading this thread and suggesting that op buys a chainsaw to cut already split logs in half is like asking them to commit suicide how are you going to hold them ? if you touch the split edge with the chain the log will jump and the chain saw with it straight for your forehead!!!
    oh and before any smart replys i have been a pro woodcutter for over 40 years
    just ask your wood supplier to deliver you shorter logs most will be able to do this

    Nothing more to say! Well said.
  • jacko74
    jacko74 Posts: 396 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Personally I find a chainsaw a waste of time.. you spend more time resharpening, retensioning and refueling than you do cutting wood with it!

    I use a log grenade and sledgehammer to split thicker logs then a bow saw to cut into lengths on a saw horse.
  • jacko74 wrote: »
    Personally I find a chainsaw a waste of time.. you spend more time resharpening, retensioning and refueling than you do cutting wood with it!

    I use a log grenade and sledgehammer to split thicker logs then a bow saw to cut into lengths on a saw horse.

    You aren't using your chainsaw correctly if you find a bowsaw quicker.
    I can run all day without sharpening and refueling only required every 2 hours or so.
    The chain is only really made blunt by hitting objects other than wood, ie the ground. :mad:
    Try cutting an 18" diameter hardwood with a bowsaw !
    Would take several minutes and you would be very tired, would take seconds with a decent chainsaw and can cut all day.
    :money:
  • Dieselman
    Dieselman Posts: 100 Forumite
    In my garden i have a solid bench with a vice fitted i use this for chopping my branches and some smaller tree logs by cutting the length required say 8" then when i have the rounds i use the maul to split them for putting in the wood shed.

    The vice makes light work and i can use both hands on the chainsaw where they need to be, no rushing make time and do it slowly it's no race or accidents can happen.

    Log grenades are a usefull tool they were £6.95 in Aldi not so long back i bought two ideal for splitting those large chunks of wood.

    I enjoy looking for wood dumped usually by the traveling community were they have been parked once they have left i take the chainsaw and get as much as i can, it's all dry that i burn the moisture below 16% and use some soft wood timber from house builds it burns hot but quickly.

    What ever you do with the cutting and chopping do it safely if in doubt leave it well alone.:mad:
  • bumping this to ask if anyone has used a reciprocating saw instead of a bowsaw to cut across the grain?

    they are in aldi £25 plus 5 for a spare pack of blades
  • I bought one today for some DIY in the house and might use it for some small stuff, but the thickness limit is quite low - hang on, 115mm for wood. I do know some people use them for breaking up pallets (the untreated ones!) for kindling and small wood.

    I haven't got a woodburner yet - next year's project - but I've already started collecting. Aldi/Lidl have been useful for a saw horse, grenade and axe, and I already had a bowsaw. Maybe a chainsaw next year along with the PPE. Not sure what stove I might get, so have been sawing quite small the little I've done, but may well go for something which allows logs 2/3 inches longer than the really small ones.
  • Gloomendoom
    Gloomendoom Posts: 16,551 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    I'd be wary of using a chainsaw on a metal saw horse. The payback time on a decent chainsaw and ppe is actually quite long.

    A small circular saw is better than a reciprocating saw for pallets. I have a small Aldi one but I've ditched for a cordless jobby.
  • unlucky67
    unlucky67 Posts: 121 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    I'm using a cheap reciprocating saw - you can get bosch pruning blades - 5 for £10 in toolstation...and they are great and cut thicknesses up to 19cm - actually I think they had cheaper blades for green wood - a few quid for 5 (I think) but went for the bosch...(In my experience tools are only as good as the blades/ drill bits/ sand paper - most cheap tools do a good job - if you use decent accessories) B&Q have a slightly different bosch blade for pruning that is nearly £20 - not sure why it is different though... Pretty sure there will be a cutting thickness on the saw as well ...
This discussion has been closed.
Meet your Ambassadors

🚀 Getting Started

Hi new member!

Our Getting Started Guide will help you get the most out of the Forum

Categories

  • All Categories
  • 352.2K Banking & Borrowing
  • 253.6K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
  • 454.3K Spending & Discounts
  • 245.3K Work, Benefits & Business
  • 601K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
  • 177.5K Life & Family
  • 259.1K Travel & Transport
  • 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
  • 16K Discuss & Feedback
  • 37.7K Read-Only Boards

Is this how you want to be seen?

We see you are using a default avatar. It takes only a few seconds to pick a picture.