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Firewood - How to chop, store and light?

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Comments

  • I'm going to buy a maul this weekend, I think that'll help with the splitting rather than the axe I have.

    I've held off on my log delivery for a couple of weeks whilst I prepare the log store. I might also ask if any of the wood can be chopped smaller, even if they charge a small amount it'll be worth it.

    Thanks for all the help so far :)
  • Most suppliers will be able to produce shorter logs by request - just means setting the processor up differently. You may have to pay extra for "granny logs" though - as there are more cuts, and a lot more waste. Bear in mind that every cut turns at least 1/8th of an inch of wood into chips.
  • SG27
    SG27 Posts: 2,773 Forumite
    Use a bow saw if you don't mind a bit of work. I've been cutting my logs this way with a £20 log saw horse from Argos. I can get through a thigh sized log in about 90 seconds now. Does work up a sweat though but good fun.
  • I want a chain saw!!! - but actually I'm too scared of them ...
    (Wouldn't know where to start with petrol - so thinking a cordless one ...I live near a forest and you take a trailer and help yourself to felled logs for a small annual fee but unless you bought a massive trailer you'd need to be able to cut them on site!)
    Any how ...I have a B&D scorpion saw - and for logs and pruning trees it is rubbish ...you have to buy their blades (£10 each) - they only do fine toothed ones and green wood blunts them in no time - and they snag -a lot!
    My dad has given me a 'normal' corded reciporating saw (funnily enough my dad 'discovered' he no longer needed it after I mentioned I was going to buy a cheap one.... or get a chainsaw ;) ) -
    I've got some (Bosch) pruning blades - about £10 for 5 from toolstation - and so far one blade has trimmed a couple of big branches (8-10cm thick) off a conifer and done lots of logs and still doesn't need replacing... fantastic...(Scorpion one blade would have just about managed the branches)
    I do have a log saw horse (about £20 from Amazon) - and I wouldn't be without it ...
    I bought a log store off ebay - it would have been March/ April ish - around £80 rather than £120 -described as ' seconds' -because it had been stored outside and I guess end of season ...I also have a couple of pallets on the ground with logs stacked on top and covered with a tarpaulin...(And more pallets to make a bigger store/s - just haven't got round to it yet...too busy trying to cut up logs so they season faster) For anyone buying a stove ...I knew this before but really didn't realise just how massive a difference it makes if you are cutting your own wood... I started cutting wood months before it was fitted ...the one I was going to have was narrow and tall (think portrait A4) - it only took shortish lengths (9-10 inch I think) - after doing some cutting I changed it and went for the next size up - it was more landscape A4 - takes much longer lengths (14 inch ish) - and the cutting really is a heck of a lot quicker!!!
  • duggo1
    duggo1 Posts: 175 Forumite
    PPI Party Pooper
    We got the aldi splitter and it broke on the third log.:mad: will take it back and get the chainsaw I think
  • Gloomendoom
    Gloomendoom Posts: 16,551 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    They do two different jobs. One is not a substitute for the other.
  • duggo1
    duggo1 Posts: 175 Forumite
    PPI Party Pooper
    We got the wood grenade and the big axe/maul at the same time. We do have some thickish pieces of trunk that are too big for us to tackle with the bow saw.
    Out of interest though why can't you use a chainsaw to do the splitting?
  • Gloomendoom
    Gloomendoom Posts: 16,551 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    duggo1 wrote: »
    We got the wood grenade and the big axe/maul at the same time. We do have some thickish pieces of trunk that are too big for us to tackle with the bow saw.
    Out of interest though why can't you use a chainsaw to do the splitting?

    You can't split with a chainsaw but, to be fair, you could saw the logs up along the grain but it is wasteful in time, fuel and wear and tear on the saw. You also waste a fair bit of wood. I sometimes resort to it for a log that has a twisted grain or is particularly knotty. As pointed out above, the smaller the bits get, the harder it is to stop them moving while you cut them... and that can lead to all sorts of problems.
  • suisidevw
    suisidevw Posts: 2,256 Forumite
    Get a Fiskars X27 axe off ebay, less than £50 and an absolute beast. Lifetime guarantee too.

    I use this, with a petrol chainsaw I got from Lidl for £80 with 18" Oregon bar and 3 year warrantee and a saw horse. This has been perfect for my needs to cut wood for a stove and an open fire
  • Splitting is very dependent on the species of wood and also if it's seasoned - splitting green (newly felled) wood can be a lot easier than splitting the same log 12 months later. Or harder. Depends on the wood.

    Maul, tree stump and a car tyre - tyre screwed flat onto stump, fill tyre snugly with logs, split the lot in 10 - 20 swipes, no bending down, no flying logs. Have a look on youtube.

    I have an Aldi electric chainsaw as well as a petrol, and the electric one is great for quick cutting/chopping, quiet too, and easier to handle. Would still take your leg off given the chance - the key is to have the log you're cutting 100% immoveable. On a proper saw horse, wedged down, anything, as long as it can't move or rotate.

    If you're buying them in, just ask for shorter logs - cheaper, quicker, easier. Don't bother with supermarkets and petrol stations - they're silly money. Have a look to find a proper log supplier. Buying now is pricey. But then again buying in three months will be very difficult as most will have sold out! Early summer is probably best.

    Log store - pallets! Lots of pallets! And a tarp. And that's it.

    I'd recommend a flue thermometer - sits on the flue pipe or on top of the stove and gives you an idea of how well it's running. And a moisture meter - so you can check those logs are less than 25% moisture - on an inside face, straight after splitting. Dry logs, an idea of the stove temp, and some messing with the air intakes - read the manual! - should keep it running ok.
    :)
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