Rover 75 Pricing

mattyprice4004

wtkwhite wrote: »

The one I was looking at in Kendal is a bit tatty, has no service history and has a mildew/cigarette stench. Which is a shame .

Has anybody spotted any particularly good deals anywhere?

It's a shame this thread wasn't a few months ago - I sold a lovely W plate 75 CDTi Connoisseur SE (fully loaded with Nav, Electric seats, cruise, parking sensors etc) for £800.

Took ages to shift, too!

alastairq

Where I find the difficulty in parking the saloons is that both the front and back slope away so you can't see the ends, and makes judging the space remaining fairly daunting initially. The estates are easy to reverse park because the screen is more or less at the end, but we're talking about a saloon here.

Glue small rubber balls on to springy sticks, attach to bumpers, wire up to doorbell in the passenger compartment?

I use shop windows! [Harry Worth-style parking?]

rev_henry

mattyprice4004 wrote: »

It's a shame this thread wasn't a few months ago - I sold a lovely W plate 75 CDTi Connoisseur SE (fully loaded with Nav, Electric seats, cruise, parking sensors etc) for £800.

Took ages to shift, too!

Didn't you buy one of yours from up our way as well?

Dvorak123

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I'm currently looking at a 75 Classic SE with 82,000 on the clock. It is another 2l CDT, and is in mint condition inside and out (I have been to see). The asking price is £1500, which seems steep for the low spec and the fact that there is only 6 months of tax and MOT left.

What do you think I should be offering? Henry seems to reckon I'm being too generous at £1200.

rev_henry

2002, FSH, advisory for back box though.

londonTiger

wtkwhite wrote: »

Why do teenagers ride around in Corsas and Saxos and whatever other cars when it's more expensive and less pleasant? I've never understood that.

I'm more concerned about mechanical life, and (having done a bit of reading) about parking the thing - apparently it's a bit of a boat. Would you declare aftermarket parking sensors to the insurers? It seems to put my quote up by about £30.

Thanks for the information, Herzlos. I will be careful with the drain!

cars that are cheap to buy new are also cheap to repair and service, cars that are expensive when new are also expensive to repair and service even if they're 20 years old.

That's why.

karthiks

Now I am tempted to buy one too. Found one near my place for 995 GBP but the meter has been stuck at 99k, so no idea how many miles it has actually driven. There is also the option of a 1995 C200 MB :rotfl:

atrixblue.-MFR-.

alot of car for the money the fetch these days.

even the 2.0l v6 lump petrol are decent and no they dont suffer HGF, many look at rover and say oh HGF leave it alone, thats OK because those who know about the rover k series engine can then grab bargains, i would say look at tax banding betwen the petrol version and the diesel version, you should be looking for a highline connie (connasuer), satnav dvd rear electric sunvisor the works, and cheap enough to purchase these cars are one of the most cheapest vehicles to insure for young drivers, as long as they can see past grandad car perception and look at quility and style you wont find much difference in insurance compared with the 1.8Turbo and the 2.0 v6 and 2.0 diesel.

failure rate: cars built at oxford have a higher failure rate than those built at longbridge, look at the sills and the longbridge made cars had colour coded sills right way down to chassis oxford ones dont have a full colour coded sill and the black parts is where the waxoil starts with oxford built cars top tip.

find a 1.8 or 1.8 turbo that has been looked after you wont have a hg failure aslong as you keep up basic checks of water lines and oil and when doing a service change out the thermostat everytime and keep checking for water leaks in the very poor meterial of water hoses.

keep OAT antifreeze in it at correct mixture (never use green or blue antifreeze in them) red antifreeze is your best friend with a rover k series.

avoid the tourer you cannot find rear shock absorbers anywhere.

check brake lines for surface rust.

check the handbrake travel, 3 clicks should hold it rock solid, any further the tensioner for the cable has stretched or needs adjusting and is a pain to do.

check the pleniums (under the window screen where the window wiper mechanisms and more important ECU are) for water, drain it out and clear of leaves and renew the pollen filter as it will be soaked in mud and crud and water.

check the boot space for water ingress, odds on it is leaking through the rear light lense foam seal, apply a little sealer, and recheck, if still have water check the chrome side strips once they are removed apply small bit of silicone to the poly clips and refit.

check that the front suspension has been fitted with spring guards, this will prevent a spring going through your tyre and ruining your alloy wheels, can pick up the guards for pennies on rimmer brothers (oem parts dealer) most suspensions will have pre drilled holes to fit the guards.

check all the interior door handles work as they should, and never pull the door handle while the door is locked via the centre consol button (interior) it cuases the cable in the door to snap.

has 2 keys!, and the keyfob can be manually programmed to open all doors with single press or drivers door with single press all doors with subsequent 2nd press of the fob.

hold open button to open the boot with the fob.

to deadlock press close button twice.

check tyres uneven wear can indicate a perished front or rear bushes, front can be expensive to replace on the wishbones, rears are a time consuming job, and the 75 has certain piramiters to tracking aswell, mgroverforums has the stats for all 4 wheel tracking and prevent pulling to the left.

check for rust around rear window seal (water can leak into the boot from there aswell if the rust has made a decent hole, inner rear arches, and inner wheel wells as these were not waxoil upon leaving the factory.

late 2004 early 2005 connies were fitted with xenon projectors and non reccomended bulbs can play havock with the bulb out warning lamp on the dash.

check for airbag light usually driverside seat connector has corrosion on it easy fix for the garage you purchased.

rear parking sensors were fitted to the connie spec 75,its not that hard to park it, you just have to bear in mind you cant see where the boot ends, unless you fit a spoiler for a ref point. (spoilers are cheap on fleabay on the 75 get the high raised one off the ZT)

think i have covered everything im not saying this is all going to have to be done when you get the 75, these are things to check out for in undermaintained 75's.

would be even nicer if you could find a monogram painted 75 connie premium.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

karthiks wrote: »

Now I am tempted to buy one too. Found one near my place for 995 GBP but the meter has been stuck at 99k, so no idea how many miles it has actually driven. There is also the option of a 1995 C200 MB :rotfl:

theres a easy fix for that with someone who has a bit of patience and pcb and soldering experience. crate of lager at autolecky's should see it fixed if not.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

londonTiger wrote: »

cars that are cheap to buy new are also cheap to repair and service, cars that are expensive when new are also expensive to repair and service even if they're 20 years old.

That's why.

rover 75 diesel or petrol are cheap to service and maintain.

ive not had a problem sourcing OE parts pattern parts, rimmerbro's xpart landrover all produce service items and specific items required to repair a job. there a decent patern part body panels available aswell.