Engine management light

Rolandtheroadie

Hopefully it stays out.Fingers crossed.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

in all honesty you could remove the ECU unit yorself, its not hard to do and youll just need to send ECCU and keys to the ecu place.
ford forums will guide you through it no problems there are stickys and tutorial thrweads there with pics on how to do a veriety of things.

my advice to you is that your ECU has a clear fault that is causing the fixes to fail overheating of componants is one that maybe a cause or consitant live and not ground to properly suppy its rated voltage, my advice would be to buy a ECU kit from your local salvage yard, and have that fitted, and a autolecky to check the wiring to the ECU before fitmet.

it maybe that your coilpacks are failing due to the faulty ECU and not vice versa, so you may have a new one now and light is out but youll be in same situ a few months down the road when the ECU has gone through another pack.

i know ka's fiesta's are not worth much in way of part ex etc but these things run into the ground mainly when the body and chassis has given up the engine will continue to go and worth money in the private market for young drivers, so throwing money at an unresolved problem is not going to get you anywhere but getting the know issue fixed for good will result in a good private sale if you keep invoices as what i would look at in a car this age would be reciepts proving the car is looked after and thus i will sped that little extra finding a car with a heap of reciepts than a car with just a logbook and an old service history book.

Ratboy

Hardupandfedup wrote: »

Id rather not grow a pair to be honest as Im female it would be a bit inappropriate.:mad:

The ecu may be faulty, but it did need a new coil pack as the old one was clearly damaged and car is running a lot better.

Have spoken to the place that remapped the ecu and it may be going back to them to be checked when I can find someone to take it off without charging me a fortune.

Thanks for your advice, but if your are going to post silly and inappropriate remarks dont bother:(

What is silly and inappropriate about my comment? That's probably the attitude that has caused you not to get this fixed.

If you ask for advice - take it. If you don't LIKE the advice, then don't abuse it.

I used to upgrade ECU's in the '80's when modding was popular with the RS and XR cars; if your ECU CANNOT be interrogated, then it is a doorstop. I'm surprised it still works; but I suspect you have damaged the car further by driving with these codes; So I expect, poor running due to Air flow meter/MAF sensor, that increases the fuel delivery, and causes fuel to be dumped in the o2 sensor, or lambda sensor (£100), and the CAT, £800.

Your car needed a new coil pack, because you went to a cowboy, that was unable to get codes from the faulty ECU.

The coil is faulty because you have a faulty ECU. So you are paying dead money.

You can either post the question, then listen to the advice given, act on it, or slag people off for giving that advice, when people have an opinion, that you asked for, no need to slag people off, when you asked for advice.

Strider590

How about gunked up idle control valve (if it has one) or a sticking throttle valve? Both would give the problem described and neither would show up on diagnostics.

elliesmemory1

Ratboy wrote: »

What is silly and inappropriate about my comment? That's probably the attitude that has caused you not to get this fixed.

If you ask for advice - take it. If you don't LIKE the advice, then don't abuse it.

I used to upgrade ECU's in the '80's when modding was popular with the RS and XR cars; if your ECU CANNOT be interrogated, then it is a doorstop. I'm surprised it still works; but I suspect you have damaged the car further by driving with these codes; So I expect, poor running due to Air flow meter/MAF sensor, that increases the fuel delivery, and causes fuel to be dumped in the o2 sensor, or lambda sensor (£100), and the CAT, £800.

Your car needed a new coil pack, because you went to a cowboy, that was unable to get codes from the faulty ECU.

The coil is faulty because you have a faulty ECU. So you are paying dead money.

You can either post the question, then listen to the advice given, act on it, or slag people off for giving that advice, when people have an opinion, that you asked for, no need to slag people off, when you asked for advice.

Ok, First of all you have a very angry and rude attitude, secondly, "Your grow a pair" comment is rude and uncalled for.

For your information,car has been to 2 garages and been seen by a aa mechanic maybe they are all cowboys???
I have also talked to the place that remapped the ecu.
As I have little knowledge of cars I posted on here for advise. I have acted on that advise ie take to differant garage DONE replace coil pack DONE. I dont take advise from rude and arrogant people, just read your posts and see how you come across.
You may have more knowledge and experience than me and other posters but that does not give you the right to be rude. I would take your own advise and not slag people off.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

lets not have this thread locked up there are some really good pointers here.

in all honesty OP there is money to be saved here, such as getting a haynes manual (from library or a cheapo from bootsale) or going to a forum that has a tutorial for ecu removal, infact the ECU is not hard to locate (passenger footwell behind floorwell trim (there is a inspection flap that will reveal the ODB/EODB port on the trim itself) remove that trim and it is there tucked up under the dash near fuses.
its a common problem for KA ECU to suffer with water ingress due to its location near footwell (wet trainers etc knocking it). sometimes its not the ECU but the wires being corroded!.

remove yourself saving labour charges send back to garage where the repair was carried for them to send off to ECU place (remeber key is needed) and then have it back fit yourself. saving in labour again.

elliesmemory1

Thanks, you see the garage is telling me that the whole dashboard has to be taken off to get at the ecu, I know when it was taken out to be sent away they did this as I saw it in bits in the garage. They said there is a big bolt to remove.

I have spoken to ecu place myself and they say as its already been removed once it should not be such a big job to do again.


Im looking it to doing as you suggest possibly getting a friend to help.

missing_link_2

Hardupandfedup wrote: »

Thanks, you see the garage is telling me that the whole dashboard has to be taken off to get at the ecu, I know when it was taken out to be sent away they did this as I saw it in bits in the garage. They said there is a big bolt to remove.

Just shows you that they are conning you,because atrixblue.-MFR- has kindly pointed out where it is.

Did my PM's come though?

Mankysteve

When you say remaped do you mean they installed a new ecu and recoded it to work with your car. I think it may be time to get shut tbh.

elliesmemory1

missing_link wrote: »

Just shows you that they are conning you,because atrixblue.-MFR- has kindly pointed out where it is.

Did my PM's come though?

Yes thanks, two differant garages have told me its a big job and you have to take the whole dash out. For such a basic car car it a complete pain.
I do think garages try to rip you off if you dont know about cars, The guy at the ecu place said it shouldnt be a big job second time around though, he said take itoff and send it to them.