A good deal?

Greenfires

Good move! Surprising how many people do exactly the same though and then mention that the stove sometimes smells a bit smokey!

alleycat`

sussexbaker wrote: »

In situ now, and happily eating it's way through all the kiln dried wood I can feed it! Couple of queries, shouldn't there be a little plate somewhere saying it was installed by a HETAS registered installer? Also the flue thermometer I have rarely gets above 100c and into the "best burn" range. However I have very little soot (if any) on the window. I know it's supposed to be a very efficient stove and the flue gases pass through pipes to scrub off heat, but is that right?

On your points:-

I have a "data plate" in my garage next to the fuse box which lists the room the stove is installed in, the chimney type and construction, fuels it is suitable for, the installers name / date of installation and in the "other info" he has added his hetas registration number.
This is on top of the piece of paper / certificate i received.

I have a stove thermometer and find that with wood i can get it hotter with just seasoned wood than with smokeless (although not as constant in temeperature terms).
It sits around 300F in smokeless land and will easily top 400F with just a load of seasoned wood.

If yours is "kiln dried" and it won't get above 100C (equivalent 200F), i'd be surprised if that is correct behaviour, even assuming the stove is extra efficient

I can't see the point in a flue thermomemter that doesn't record the correct "burn temeprature" for the stove. So if the installer thought it was a good idea i'd expect it to get into the correct "zone".

I seem to remember someone else on here had a similar problem with regards to temperature and it was due to the incorrect location of the baffle plate (can someone else confirm that?).

Looks very nice btw :-)
O and what is the blackening around the top of the stove pipe?

Williwoodburner

Hi,
could be that your wood is not properly seasoned, looks green to me, too brown, should be grey in colour.
I would be very wary when buying wood (even so called kiln dried), most firewood suppliers season in the round as they have neither the room or time to cut split and stack it properly for a year or more.
Have you tested a fresh split log with a moisture meter ?.
Also try putting more wood in the stove, at least 3 logs,
more logs = more surface area to burn properly.
Lastly, experiment, 100c is very low flue temp, likely to get creasote problems.

Hope this helps.

Willie.

sussexbaker

The blackening around the top of the stove pipe is something the installers put on. Sadly I wasn't around when they were doing it, and my mum (who was) isn't as inquisitive as me so I have no idea.

The wood I've been buying has come from couple of local places but ultimately appears to come from this lot: http://www.certainlywood.co.uk/

My moisture meter is sub 8% for the stuff I've been getting from them. I've recently purchased some from another local place where the readings are far higher, I've been burning the stuff reading up to 14% and just leaving the higher stuff aside. That's the wood next to the stove, along with a couple of bits of ash from a tree I cut down (but not intending to burn for a couple of years). Roll on having my own seasoning facilities!

I suspect Williwoodburner might be onto something and that I'm being too tight fisted with the logs. I'm starting the fire with a firelighter and some kindling with a log on top and the door open on the hatch. Once it's well and truely burning (about 20mins) I add one or two more logs, leave the door on the hatch for another 5 mins and then close it. When I add the next log I tend to close the grate down to about half way. I shall give it a go this evening (bit of a waste as it's such mild weather) and try loading it up more. I assume that the idea is that you want to get the actual stove hot hot hot and then start closing the vent to make the logs burn slower?

Williwoodburner

sussexbaker wrote: »

I suspect Williwoodburner might be onto something and that I'm being too tight fisted with the logs. I'm starting the fire with a firelighter and some kindling with a log on top and the door open on the hatch. Once it's well and truely burning (about 20mins) I add one or two more logs, leave the door on the hatch for another 5 mins and then close it. When I add the next log I tend to close the grate down to about half way. I shall give it a go this evening (bit of a waste as it's such mild weather) and try loading it up more. I assume that the idea is that you want to get the actual stove hot hot hot and then start closing the vent to make the logs burn slower?

Hi again,
yes sounds like your wood is ok, in my opinion the only way to ensure properly seasoned wood is to do it yourself, but this takes time, effort, equippment and space to store outside when cut and split.
Try using more wood until you get flue temp up, then closing air down in stages, say 10 minutes at each adjustment until you get the lazy flames and temps should stay up until embers.
Reload when embers have burned down so just enough to relight new logs.
This will use less wood if you let the wood go through its burn cycle, dont keep opening the door and chucking 1 log on.
Much better a full load, control burn when up to temp, refuel when few embers left. :money:

regards

Willie.

Leif

It looks very nice.

sussexbaker wrote: »

Couple of queries, shouldn't there be a little plate somewhere saying it was installed by a HETAS registered installer?

Yes, I was left one. You should contact your installer. You should have a certificate as well, though mine arrived a few weeks later in the post. Same happened with electrics certificates.

Where do we have to put the plate? I keep mine in a kitchen draw with the kitchen guarantee and other documents.

alleycat`

Leif wrote: »

Where do we have to put the plate? I keep mine in a kitchen draw with the kitchen guarantee and other documents.

On my "certificate" it states where the plate is installed.

I believe it is recommended it is fitted near the electric / gas meter or the main fuse box although the hetas website is somewhat non specific about it.

I'm going on what it says in the destructions for my stove.

hethmar

You should have a data plate giving information about the liner and the details of the installer. We normally fix these next to the utility box (electric meter).

You should have a compliance certificate with all the details given including position of the data plate. It may be worth checking with HETAS that the installation has been registered with them, particularly as the installer has not left a data plate! Have they fitted the CO monitor?

100 degrees C is very low, I am still a F person but on my temp gauge we run it at about 450 F which is about 200 C I think. 20 minutes for the fire to be "well and truly" burning is a long time. I think mine is up and away in literally a couple of minutes. Are you opening the vents?

shirlls

suisidevw wrote: »

Excellent excellet price all in. If that's what it is all in, I'd go for it quick sharp. Brief comparison for you which was me sourcing the liner, pot, stove etc:

Charnwood C-four - £600
New pot - £40
316 liner and sundries - £260
Fitting and sign off to include custom register - £390
CO alarm - £15
Stove pipe - £20
Flue thermometer - £12

Total: £1337.

I wish I could get a quote for that amount!! I've been quoted nearly £3,000, from memory I think the fitting on that quote was £850.

suisidevw

Ouch, that's painful! Where are you based?