Stripping a multi fuel stove down to use as a woodburner

highrisklowreturn

Ok,

I tried to take apart my Oisin today in order to sweep my clay flue. However, got stuck at the throat plate, and couldn't get it out. Rang a sweep who advised to bring it forwards, then push one side up and pull the other down - I did this and still couldn't get it out.

So am stuck as to sweeping it - and am anticipaing having to go on the roof to sweep from the top down.

However I later took apart other bits of the stove - ashpan out, grate out, grate holder out, two side bits that sit alongside the baffle plate, and didn't put the firebricks back in.

I then fired up this new found huge space with just wood - and the heat being given off is terrific. Originally I thought it was only possible to get the temp up this high with just coal, but it's working great on dry wood and a few logs.

I'm just wondering now what the pros, cons and dangers are of doing it like this. I understand the obvious ones of having the fireguard out - but will the heat from wood warp my stove, or would only coal hit the right temp to do this?

All advice appreciated.

Williwoodburner

Hi Highrisk,
many multifuel stoves can be converted to woodburning by taking the grate out.
We did the same with our Yeoman, in woodburning mode the Yeoman has 2 extra firebricks that fit at the side below the upper side firebricks.
If I were you I would put the firebricks back as they protect the sides of the stove and hold heat in the firebox which helps with efficient clean burning.
Keep a bed of at least an inch of ash, this also protects the base of the stove and holds heat.
Experiment with burn times by reloading only when a few glowing embers, rake them forward then put a big log at the back and smaller front.
Only close the door after the wood has caught light.
Keep full air until really blazing, then turn down in stages until you get the lazy flames. :j

Happy woodburning :money:

Willie.

highrisklowreturn

Ok - I think I like the idea now I've finally got a grasp on it - the space difference is quite big, because it now means I can put bigger sized logs in which used to get jammed before.

The only issue I see is, if I take the firebars out, which gives much more room, there is a real, even by my cavalier standards, H/S risk of something on fire toppling out when reloading.

Are the firebricks really that important if not burning coal?

muckybutt

highrisklowreturn wrote: »

Ok,

I tried to take apart my Oisin today in order to sweep my clay flue. However, got stuck at the throat plate, and couldn't get it out. Rang a sweep who advised to bring it forwards, then push one side up and pull the other down - I did this and still couldn't get it out.

So am stuck as to sweeping it - and am anticipaing having to go on the roof to sweep from the top down.

:rotfl::rotfl: sorry but gotta laugh after all the advice you have had.

As for the fire bricks yes you need them in, but you dont listen to advice much so do what you always do

Towser

Which is cheaper wood, coal or electricity? I don't know how to work it out.

elastic

I was also thinking of removing the grate bars in my coalbrookdale severn. I was wondering if I would need to line the floor of the fire as well as the sides with fire bricks?

muckybutt

elastic wrote: »

I was also thinking of removing the grate bars in my coalbrookdale severn. I was wondering if I would need to line the floor of the fire as well as the sides with fire bricks?

Just the sides, most if not all woodburners have a plain bottom with no bricks, all you need is a good ash bed to burn on.

Williwoodburner

highrisklowreturn wrote: »

The only issue I see is, if I take the firebars out, which gives much more room, there is a real, even by my cavalier standards, H/S risk of something on fire toppling out when reloading.

Firebars, do you mean the log guard or the grate ?
Not sure of the design of your stove but if possible take out the grate but leave the log guard in :money:.

Willie.

highrisklowreturn

Ok new advice to people do not burn a stove without firebricks in, especially whilst burning a superhot blended coal.

I think as well the ashpan should be left in, along with the firebars at the front.

wintergirl

So does wood burn better (ie a longer, hotter burn) on a proper bed of ash? I ask because when we got our stove, we informed our supplier that we only really intended to burn wood, but he said a multi fuel stove was best, as you always then had the option to burn coal is you wanted.

Thing is, the gaps between our grate are quite large, even when set to burn wood, so its hard to get a good bed of ash, and the air seems to still ciculate under the wood, causing a faster burn rate if I'm not mistaken??

We were therefore thinking of getting the wood burner conversion kit, andremoving the grate. (Its an Aarrow Sherborne stove, and although people seem to say just let the ash build over the grate, our Aarrow manual says you sould not 'under any cicumatances' do that, as it drastically reduces the life of the grate??) - We don't want to damage the grate, as when we get too old and fed up cutting up logs, we may want to convert to burning the black stuff! :rotfl:But in the mean time, w'd like to get the best from it whilst burning wood.

muckybutt

The ash should be deep enough to help protect the grate WG, at the mo ours is a good inch - inch and a half deep.

To top the ash up if you need to just take the ash out of your pan and put that back into the stove.