Hot water new boiler

gas4you

I don't care a toss if I am proved wrong. I will openly admit to it as well.

What I do object to is you, when you are wrong or disagree, just slating off a n other personally, rather than objectively.

Whenever you are about to be proved wrong, your immediate response is insults and trying to make out I am a ccc.

Not very fitting for a supposedly professional gas operative.

A 4 pipe system will work perfectly ok on any hot water cylinder system.

Whether that system is the best for the OP is another question.

I have no mates on here and don't want any. I look after no1 as no one else will.

I really haven't the time or inclination to respond to your old fashioned bigoted views as a troll.

You may pretend to own up to mistakes, but when the truth comes out that you haven't really a clue about modern systems other than Broag, you go all defensive rather than constructive.

Being the better and more professional man, I will leave you to flap around trying to make yourself look good to the unsuspecting public.

southcoastrgi

gas4you wrote: »

I don't care a toss if I am proved wrong. I will openly admit to it as well.

but you don't ever you just troll goggle trying to justify yourself.

What I do object to is you, when you are wrong or disagree, just slating off a n other personally, rather than objectively.

you are the one that called me a southern softy & a BG idiot how objective was that ?

Whenever you are about to be proved wrong, your immediate response is insults and trying to make out I am a ccc.

see above

Not very fitting for a supposedly professional gas operative.

totally agree

A 4 pipe system will work perfectly ok on any hot water cylinder system.

but it won't as the OP proved by getting the wiring diagram, you are still wrong but won't admit it.

Whether that system is the best for the OP is another question.

I have no mates on here and don't want any. I look after no1 as no one else will.

I really haven't the time or inclination to respond to your old fashioned bigoted views as a troll.

i neither have old fashioned views & i certainly am not bigoted, how can trying to help people make me a troll.

You may pretend to own up to mistakes, but when the truth comes out that you haven't really a clue about modern systems other than Broag, you go all defensive rather than constructive.

i know all about modern systems thank you, just because i think "4" pipe systems are a waste of time & extra money, i give my customers best value for money & the things that best serves their needs not something that makes me the most money or gives me the biggest kick back.

Being the better and more professional man, I will leave you to flap around trying to make yourself look good to the unsuspecting public.

was it professional when an OP asked about a diaphram washer on a chaff water heater was it diy or did they need a reg engineer, you just said they are all difficult to change, when you should have said as a balanced flue heater the outer case & seal is really part of the flue system so seals have to be checked & therefore to remove the case you need a RGI how professional was that of you.so really is it me that the unsuspecting public have to be worried about i think not

you can reply if you want to or not i'm not bothered either way, but even if you do i'm not going to as it's quite pointless & to be honest i have better things to do than try & justify myself to you or anyone else.

lil_old_me

Well my husband used the stopcock thing and tested the water which had come from the boiler to the cylinder (just before cylinder). Water was 60 degrees (got new thermometer). So its losing heat in the cylinder, which my husband is going to change

T_T_2

How many people does it take to find a fault on a boiler? It would seem that you need at least three plumbers and a representative of the Oxford English Dictionary to define a term that has absolutely no bearing on the problem before the fault can even be considered.

To the OP, glad you have identified that the water is leaving the boiler at a sufficiently high temperature but arriving at a much lower temperature at the cylinder. Just be certain that the heat loss is occuring at the cylinder and not elsewhere before ripping it out.

If you do replace your cylinder remember that the old one has an inherent scrap value, so if someone offers to 'get rid of it' for a tenner then tell them to shove off.

keystone

lil_old_me wrote: »

Well my husband used the stopcock thing and tested the water which had come from the boiler to the cylinder (just before cylinder). Water was 60 degrees (got new thermometer). So its losing heat in the cylinder, which my husband is going to change

Illogical Captain. If the temperature of the flow from the boiler is 60 degrees C then the temperature in the cylinder will never reach 60 degrees and you will always get a far lower temperature at your taps.

To try and put this into context you know that you car will run at 30 mph in 4th gear with the accelerator pressed just so far down. Try as you like you cannot will it to go at 60 without pressing harder. You have to put more in to get more out.

This is not a replacement cylinder issue. Its an operate your system properly issue.

Cheers

mikey72

What's the stopcock?
Do you have a photo?

There's normally only a bleed valve in the heating side, and the drain is in the cyclinder side.

lil_old_me

Sorry yes it was an air vent not a stopcock. It's in airing cupboard.

The boiler control knob is on 3/4. Surely this it's enough to get more than 60 degrees. It's losing 15 degrees in the cylinder somehow. It's not keeping temperature the same as it goes in

keystone

lil_old_me wrote: »

The boiler control knob is on 3/4. Surely this it's enough to get more than 60 degrees. It's losing 15 degrees in the cylinder somehow. It's not keeping temperature the same as it goes in

I'm really not sure how much more we can help you as you don't seem to understand what you are being told. You thanked G4U for his post about adjusting it to suit and you thanked me for mine earlier today but it seems that you don't understand what is being said to you. Perhaps thats because we aren't explaining it well enough. Please say so if thats the case and we'll try a bit harder for you.

BTW What sort of thermometer have you bought and how are you using it?

Cheers

lil_old_me

I appreciate your help and I do understand what your saying. But what I'm confused about is why it loses so much heat immediately after entering the cylinder. I think having the knob on the boiler on 3/4 is enough. Surely it shouldn't need to be higher.

What I don't get therefore is why the knob on the boiler needs to be do high, higher really as it's only just 60. Is it faulty?

And why is so much heat lost as soon as it enters the cylinder?

I have purchased a thermometer which goes up to 125 degrees C

T_T_2

lil_old_me wrote: »

I have purchased a thermometer which goes up to 125 degrees C

I believe that what keystone means is what kind of thermometer is it? Is it a laser IR thermometer, a temperature strip, contact thermometer (with a probe) or a classic thermometer that my mother used to stick up my backside to see if I was telling porkies about being too ill for school?