Boiler replacement quote

diywhynot

Slothy: try to get someone in who is recommended by someone who has a clue. Being listed on a manufacturer's website is no guarantee of a quality job as it is just a marketing tool. Sample disclaimer from one manufacturer says Disclaimer: Remeha does not monitor the work carried out by these installers and is therefore unable to guarantee the quality of their workmanship'. similar can be found on other sites. Completing a manufacturer's course might allow an installer to offer a longer warranty or offer other financial benefits/incentives to the installer. Being on the GSR is also no guarantee of quality work. See this thread.:eek:
In regard to Remeha, perhaps the marketing in Scotland hasn't been successful with installers.

gas4you

Nothing wrong with a 4 pipe system on a Veissmann boiler. SIME do the same.

You need this if the installer is going to fit weather compensation to your boiler.

Other manufacturers, such as Vaillant, do the same thing but electronically using their ebus system.

southcoastrgi

gas4you wrote: »

You need this if the installer is going to fit weather compensation to your boiler.

no you don't that is complete rubbish, weather compensation works on the heating the only difference with the four pipes is two go to the cylinder & two to the heating, on a normal system only two would come from the boiler & then be split to the heating & hot water, you can still fit compensation if you want which will save money on your gas bill without going down this 4 pipe route, sime are you kidding unless you want it fixing every 6 months.

Popcorn_Pig

Hi! This is my first post and don't know how to start one off so please forgive me for interrupting with my query. I have a 9 yr old ICON 23T boiler which has recently had the diverter valve replaced. Does anyone know whether this will significantly extend the life of my boiler or should I be thinking of replacing it anyway?
Thank you

southcoastrgi

Popcorn_Pig wrote: »

Hi! This is my first post and don't know how to start one off so please forgive me for interrupting with my query. I have a 9 yr old ICON 23T boiler which has recently had the diverter valve replaced. Does anyone know whether this will significantly extend the life of my boiler or should I be thinking of replacing it anyway?
Thank you

no it won't it's just a part of it, the same way replacing a starter motor won't extend the life of your car engine, no need to replace unless it breaks down & is not cost effective to repair

Slothy

southcoastrgi wrote: »

you were going with a totally pointless "4 pipe" boiler thats not compatable with the OP's megaflow & possibly contravens G3 regs (i say possibly because i'm not certain but you would need to remove certain parts that are req to be fitted with an unvented cylinder, on at least every other make)

southcoastrgi, could you elaborate on the compatibility issue between megaflo and boiler?

This is another aspect of the install that I'm worried about. Viessmann (and Vaillant are the same with their VR65 control center) require a temperature sensor to be run from cylinder to the heating controls. I've read that because the megaflo is a sealed & insulated cylinder, adding such a sensor may not be possible. I've read posts that comment on replacing the cylinder stat with said sensor, but obviously that would remove one of the safety features of the cylinder and is not a positive thought. I've not seen conclusive information anywhere whether the megaflo can take another sensor (possibly in the same location as the existing boiler stat?).

Would Remeha control handle this situation more gracefully? I usually work with industrial-level electronic sensor systems, I don't see how boiler controls are this complicated. Boiler knows from the cylinder stat whether the cylinder is at temp or not, why does it need to know the actual cylinder temp (or an approximation thereof)?

I currently have my S-plan timer configured to heat the cylinder twice a day only - an hour at night and an hour during the day to make up any morning losses. But then I don't have kids who run the whole cylinder cold with a single shower either.

southcoastrgi

from what i can see you would have to remove the zone valve & cylinder stat & let the boiler do the controlling now while this maybe perfectly acceptable for it's own make of cylinder is prob isn't for megaflow, you can't just start taking things off & replacing them on someone elses product, plus why do you need four pipes coming out of the boiler when nearly everyone else uses two it's just pointless & more expensive,

weather compensation basicially means an outside sensor that records the temp so for example, it's 10 degrees outside you want your heating at 21 degrees to obtain that the rads need to be at 45 degrees, on a normal system the boiler will heat the rads to whatever temp you have set on the boiler stat lets say 65 degrees, the rads get to 65 degrees then turn off on the room stat, with compensation the boiler will know the rads only have to be at 45 degrees so it will only heat them to that so on some days if the temp outside is hotter then the rads will be cooler but the temp inside will still be 21 degrees, it can also learn how long it takes to heat the room to 21 degrees so on colder days it will switch the heating on earlier & on warmer days it switches on later, all this will help save money on your gas bill, most high end boilers can be used with compensation but they all use different controls, some do both as above & some are just room compensation which is the second part, the link below will give you some more info how Remeha do it.

http://www.remehaheating.co.uk/installer/products/gas-boiler-accessories/controls/

gas4you

Obviously you know F all about proper weather comp.

For weather comp to work properly, you need the boiler to be able to detect when there is a demand for HW from the hot water cylinder. The boiler will then boost the flow temperature to 65-70c to heat the hot water.

If as you think, the boiler is told to only fire to 45c, then you will never get any hot water above 45C either. What you state will only work properly when using a combi that is weather comped.

I suggest you look into things and only post what you actually know rather than just spout misinformed rubbish.

You also have obviously never seen the new SIME range, as they are technically from the 'new' SIME company and you appear to be stuck well and truly in the past.

As said, some manufacturers prefer a 4 pipe system, whilst others like Vaillant use electronic control via ebus and their latest equivalent of the VR65.

southcoastrgi

Oh dear oh dear someone has got their pants on fire haven't they ? Are you blind as well as stupid ? (no don't answer that I already know the answer), if you actually bothered to get your head out of your a** & read what I wrote then you would see I was talking about heating not hot water, the controllers surprisingly enough are intelligent enough (unlike some people on here) to know wether the boiler is feeding hot water or heating or did you not know that ? (these 6 wk change of career courses are a wonderful thing aren't they), so to answer your question yes I do know what I am talking about, oh & btw sime are still a pile of carp & if you think they are anything else then I guess that tells everyone what they need to know about you, I fit Remeha not because I get a kick back I fit them because I don't get any problems with them & that makes for a happy customer, so the way I look at it & just speaking for myself is quality product = quality installation, carp product eg sime (your fav) = ...... well you get my drift.

Slothy

Hi gas4you, that's a really good explanation, and is exactly why I'm so interested in having sensible dual-channel control for the boiler. In my current (old configuration) the boiler temp is set to the requirements of the DHW cylinder, and the rads just run really hot. If I were to do a straight swap without appropriate controls for a condensing boiler, the boiler would have to rely fully on modulating down in order to spend time condensing.

The Remeha controls look quite good, though it's unclear how their 2-channel timer would control the flow valves I have now.

I received a wiring diagram from Viessmann that does clearly state that for a 3rd party unvented DHW cylinder, a motorised cut-out valve should be fitted (not required for their own cylinders, however). The electrical wiring diagrams are more vague, but seem to imply the boiler is able work with just a temp stat in the cylinder rather than a full temperatur sensor.