Car been garaged for 7+ years. What's the liklihood it could be made a runner?

s_b

Delivery_Driver wrote: »

Aso, squirt some wd40 down the spark plug holes and leave it overnight before starting as all the oil will probably have drained down and you don't want the pistons/bores getting damaged.

see post 16;)

bungle4by4

im ready to pack the car with toys and come and play with this fiesta... i think i may have a problem

TrickyWicky

Strider590 wrote: »

The starter alone could be anything upto 200Amps (maybe more), but let's say 90Amp.
The discharged battery can draw as much current as you can supply.

Slight problem.. People jump start cars with discharged batteries every day. Even those that have been left standing.

I've jump started a 6L range rover from my little 2.5 with just 5L rated jump leads that are over 3m long. I didn't even accelerate my engine.

Now if you're trying to tell me those leads should of got so hot you could generate light then I'm afraid I have to disappoint you as they didn't.

Your theory being the case, everytime someone somewhere jump starts a dead car thats got a discharged battery, their engines earth lead should fry itself.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

ford fiesta rs turbo enthusiats are always on the hunt for a rolling chassis to keep alive their pride and joy especially one thats not been welded and dont need welding.

Strider590

TrickyWicky wrote: »

Your theory being the case, everytime someone somewhere jump starts a dead car thats got a discharged battery, their engines earth lead should fry itself.

No, because the current is flowing from battery to battery, the starter still only draws it's usual current.... Therefore the earth lead is subjected to nothing more than a normal start cycle.

Now the confusion here seems to stem from people not knowing the difference between a dead battery and a discharged battery.

I have a car battery in my garage that reads 12v, but it won't start a car. Most people call this "dead".
I have another car battery that reads around 1.5v, its properly dead.

If I connected a healthy battery to the later, it'd be like a virtual short circuit, it would supply so much current that it'd boil it's own electrolyte.

Jump starting a fully dead battery isn't clever.

Delivery_Driver

s_b wrote: »

see post 16;)

Do you mean in a later post as I didn't see anything about it, but I'd only read about half of the replies before I posted?

I had a similar problem, but on a fuel injteced car.Changed the battery, fuel, fuel filter, plugs and it started but only on 2 cylinders.
The 1st 2 cylinders weren't getting fuel, but I had some spare injectors so swapped them over and it was fine.This was on injectors that had been cleaned just before storage but since found out that you shouldn't let freshly cleaned injectors stand for long periods of time as they can gum up.

wealdroam

Notmyrealname wrote: »

NOT ONE PERSON HAS MENTIONED THE FUEL.

Well if you ignore post #3, where we are told...

Invalidation wrote: »

...try draining ALL the petrol out before putting new in.

...then perhaps you are right.

mikey72

Strider590 wrote: »

No, because the current is flowing from battery to battery, the starter still only draws it's usual current.... Therefore the earth lead is subjected to nothing more than a normal start cycle.

Now the confusion here seems to stem from people not knowing the difference between a dead battery and a discharged battery.

I have a car battery in my garage that reads 12v, but it won't start a car. Most people call this "dead".
I have another car battery that reads around 1.5v, its properly dead.

If I connected a healthy battery to the later, it'd be like a virtual short circuit, it would supply so much current that it'd boil it's own electrolyte.

Jump starting a fully dead battery isn't clever.

You need to understand how a battery works, start with internal resistance, and sulfation.

fatbelly

Invalidation wrote: »

...try giving it a belt of easy start into the air intake. It WILL fire then and may help to clean the muck out.
Should be OK.

or my favourite motoring product...

worried_jim

property.advert wrote: »

If you have to spend £500 on it but could perhaps get £250 in parts, then see what you can get for £750.

Any £750 banger is likely to have short or no test, no tax and need a service and some new tyres so replacing those on this model would not be an extra expense.

Just paid £495 for a Rover 620sli with 53 weeks MOT. Tyres are alomost brand new and has loads of service history including cambelt change. For £750 you would be spoilt for choice.