Your Bangernomics successes

Farzackerly

I'd only buy an automatic banger if I could do things like fluid changes myself. However, I'm sympathetic if the owner has a bad back (which is why I paid to have my cambelt changed). Changing fluid is simple preventative maintenance on a slushbox and it might buy another 50K miles. Otoh, it might go pop next week - there's no telling with autos.

CKhalvashi

Farzackerly wrote: »

I'd only buy an automatic banger if I could do things like fluid changes myself. However, I'm sympathetic if the owner has a bad back (which is why I paid to have my cambelt changed). Changing fluid is simple preventative maintenance on a slushbox and it might buy another 50K miles. Otoh, it might go pop next week - there's no telling with autos.

I wouldn't have an auto banger for this reason.

gilbert_and_sullivan

rev_henry wrote: »

As some of you know from the thread I made I bought a Hyundai Sonata V6 a bit ago. Now, it is long overdue for an autobox fluid change, which I've booked in for on Monday. However is this essential given the age and value of the car? Current fluid seems ok, clean, reddish brown as its meant to be in this car (so I've read). I obviously don't want it to break and last a good while but if its an uneccessary expense...

I suspect this will be a doddle to diy, in the way a similar true Japanese car would be.

You should of course remove the sump and replace or clean out the filter, in practice resealing that sump can be a PITA, i don't bother unless the oil that comes out is discoloured or burnt, you'll smell the burning if that's the case.

Probably Dexron 3 but check that obviously, the more adventurous among us would cleverly pump the old out and the new in via the pipes where they enter and leave the bottom of the radiator, not a process for the faint hearted.

However, bought in bulk, i buy 4 x 5 litre cans at a time the oil is very cheap, if you drain the transmission sump exactly as you would the engine sump, and then refill the thing via the dipstick tube exactly the same amount (you can check correct level on dipstick via the correct method later)...then after about 10 minutes drive (or the following day/weekend if you prefer the vehicle cold, i do) do the same again, twice, you will have changed about 90% of the oil for a fraction of the garage price.

The reason for three drain refills is that, unless Hyundai have thought of this and conveniently provided a TC drain plug, its not usually possible to drain the torque converter unless the engine and therefore transmission oil pump are running, so you have to do the above driving between sump changes to gradually mix the oils, yes its a waste of good oil as some is being thrown away each time...still going to be cheaper than a garage, and you can't be sure that the garage won;t just do one single sumpfull change, at least if you do x3, you KNOW for sure its been done.

If you check on the Hyundai forums, some decent chap might already have posted details of how to pump and refil simultaneously, but as i said its not for the faint hearted.

Even cold the oil runs out quickly so be prepared, roughly a gallon will probably be in the sump alone.

mcjordi

ive never had an auto so not sure how hard a job is. However as for my cambelt by the time i buy the correct tools for the job its cheaper and easier to pay the garage. .
Oil brakes servicing etc i do myself

rev_henry

Ok thanks gents, I'll just take it in tomorrow. From what I've read it IS designed to have the fluid changed, not one of these sealed for life things, so is a fairly easy job. The filter is fixed in the bowels of the box and is not designed to be changed, its a solid metal one not a disposable one. And of course it doesn't take normal dexron fluid, something weird called Hyundai SPIII which costs about £60 for the right amount.

I can't do it myself unfortunately because I live in a small flat and simply do not have the space to keep ramps etc etc. Not massively bothered about the cost on this occasion, its not too expensive at the garage really. Sorry if I'm breaking the rules of bangernomics.

CKhalvashi

Just run into a verge with the brand new tire..........

Another £105 down the drain. Well done CK!

mcjordi

you're not having much luck are you CK

just think for 1 1/2 of your tyres i bought my whole car :P

id cry if my tyres cost me £100 a time

Alias_Omega

03 1.2 clio, £800 18months ago.

Now 22,000miles later. Just add oil as it leaks form the sump slowly. 5litres in 22,000miles. Kinda partial loss so does not need an oil change.

So far..

Sunroof - Silcone sealed
Dog Bone Changed - £17
Front Discs / Pads - £30
Rear Shoes - £20
Tyres...

That's about it, and its going strong....

The kids call it "dads crap work car.."

philgr

My latest "banger" 2 litre turbo diesel Rover 45. I paid £750 for it and have completed 7,000 trouble free miles since February

CKhalvashi

mcjordi wrote: »

you're not having much luck are you CK

just think for 1 1/2 of your tyres i bought my whole car :P

id cry if my tyres cost me £100 a time

If I did that with the other car it's just over £500.

That's the dreaded cost of low profile tires if you ask me, but I'd prefer to hit a 17in than a 20in......