Problem after having central heating powerflushed

3rdy

unclebulgaria wrote: »

3rdy, from everything you have listed here it sounds like a system full of air locks. If its popping when you light it then you have a corrosion problem, either he hasn't carried out the flush correctly and cleaned out all of the cleaner or he didn't use any and hasn't treated the system with inhibitor either. A sticker doesn't prove anything, I know an RGI who got caught using dirty water in a labelled container to fool the customer.
If you give the IPHE a ring and ask for their advice they'll give you some good advice as well as info that may make your flush guy sit up and listen.
As for some of the advice on this forum, some is great advice, some is complete cobblers.

CH you do enough point scoring with others, or did, so stop complaining when you get it back! Remember "some people like the sound of their own keyboard!" "Knowledge is power!" payback smart Alice!

was going to phone british gas and ask them to test the water...but they might be bigger pirates than the guy i used..they charged me £189 just to repressure the expansion vessel and change the PRV...i swore he took his time :rotfl::rotfl::T

guy at work told me to take some water out of the rads and put a nail in it...if it starts to rust after a few days then there is no/ not enough inhibitor in it

he said tonight he got it wrong ..take a sample from the rads and a sample from the tap... put a nail in and see what happens..the nail i put in the tap water already has oxy bubbles forming on it..the sample from the rads hasn't after 2 days..maybe the rads are beyond help?




he also said there are different kinds of inhibitor, could it be i need a stronger kind for older system?



have to look it up when i sober up:D



come on guys...stop with the arguing...we're trying to help each other...spread the love :beer:

if canuckle said stick a rose up your bum..dance naked in a circle three times on a main road whilst chanting "hey nonny nonny and a fiddle diddle dee" will solve the problem..i'd tell him to seek help..

trying to get some help to tell a heating 'Engineer' what could be the problem...he seems to need all the help he can get..

i'll see if it can get me through the winter then see about changing the rads..

one at a time might not be economical but it should help my wallet...

3rdy

well...checked the rads just now got nothing out of some and a tiny amount out of others...

the pressure has returned to the level it was last night...maybe he put a bit more in?

strange....

laid in bed listening at the time the boiler fires up..never heard any horrendous noises like the last time he balanced the system..

3rdy

tigeress289 wrote: »

Dont panic, the system has been flushed and setting itself right. Just make sure the pressure on the boiler stays constant when running and when cold check how much it drops(which it will). When bleeding,that is just the pressure, normal so again dont worry. Canuckledhead was right in that this forum is not a point scoring contest. It is to help people with problems they normally could not do. The system sounds fine now. Just let it run for a time now. At least the valve was sorted.

when it's running the pressure stays constant and when it cools the needle on the gauge rises slightly then after a couple of days you have to bleed system then the pressure returns to normal

should it take time to settle or should it stop after powerflush?

the hydrogen is worst in the landing and front bedroom...not getting any in the others..

given up with the plumber..looks like i hired a cowboy

the father in law is coming to help me take off the rads and flush them out manually...if that don't work then new rads



one of lifes lessons i suppose

3rdy

a thought...could it be sucking air in somewhere which is allowing hydrogen to form in the air pocket?:eek: :eek:


is there any way to test?

i hope it's not under the floorboards :eek:

southcoastrgi

3rdy, you are getting some good advice & some not so good,

if your rads aren't leaking or you want to change them cause they look knackered or rusty then don't there is no point unless you are going to change them all at the same time,

powerflushing is done when a system has circulation problems or a new boiler is fitted, with the best will in the world a powerflush will NOT get rid of all the sludge in a heating system there will still be some left however small normally this is solid at the bott of the rads & because it is solid it's not circulating around the system (think of a river water runs clear but the bott is mud),

unless the pump is blocked or has crap in it you don't need to change it they either work or they don't try turning the speed up if you can if the heat isn't getting away from the boiler,

yes you may have a microleak which may or may not have been present before the flush but if you have then it can draw in air not hydrogen, i'll normally find if air is being drawn in then it is a prob with the vent pipe being installed in the wrong place or not being high enough over the roof tank,

inhibitor is inhibitor lots of different makes out there but really they are all the same none stronger than the others,

i do agree that you prob have air in the system which is starting to filter out & this can take time but as you say it is getting less,

i think you are being abit paranoid now thinking everything is gonna go wrong & cost a fortune you need to stop worring about a bit of air in the rads as long as the boiler is happy & the rads heat up then stop panicing,

if you take the rads off & empty the system don't forget to put more inhibitor back in.

Canucklehead

HI.

I guess nobody clicked on the link at the bottom of my link in post #12

Here it is.

GSR

PS It sounds like your filling loop (or whatever it is that you use) is letting by. It needs changing, disconnect after use.

southcoastrgi

Canucklehead wrote: »

HI.

I guess nobody clicked on the link at the bottom of my link in post #12

Here it is.

GSR

PS It sounds like your filling loop (or whatever it is that you use) is letting by. It needs changing, disconnect after use.

very interesting thanks, i've never read that from kamco, but that is one reason i never use FX2 or any acidic based cleaner to powerflush.

3rdy

he's coming tomorrow to test the water after being asked

"why? that will only tell you how clean the water is..."

read out about the levels of the ph test...between 6-6.5 will probably be the cause of gassing...add crystals let run for 10 minutes then test for gas..if air then it's pulling it in somewhere...

reckons the pressure build up when cold is due to the expansion vessel...he thinks there is a problem with it..i wonder if when he turned the CH temp right up to max he may have somehow damaged the vessel?

had it pumped up a couple of months ago...


says that if the filling loop was passing the pressure would rise even when cold... the pressure only rises slightly once the boiler has cooled down, then stays constant once gas bled out


all shall be revealed tomorrow...i hope!