Problem after having central heating powerflushed

Canucklehead

3rdy wrote: »

He used powerflush FX2 professional then added fernox inhibitor?

If you are sure he used FX2 as above then you might want to read how it's used........

Are you saying he was unaware of a radiator?

You give the impression that the boiler was still in the circuit when it was flushed and it is a combi.

I would never leave a combi in circuit unless it was going to be ripped out after flushing.

GSR

southcoastrgi

Canucklehead wrote: »

If you are sure he used FX2 as above then you might want to read how it's used........

i would never use an acid based cleaner did he use the neutralising crystals afterwards ?

Are you saying he was unaware of a radiator?

that's what he said

You give the impression that the boiler was still in the circuit when it was flushed and it is a combi.

I would never leave a combi in circuit unless it was going to be ripped out after flushing.

give me a break, while that would be the correct way to do it in an ideal world we both know that doesn't happen, so are you saying that if you powerflush you isolate the boiler from the system & connect the f & r pipes together on every job if the boiler isn't gonna be replaced cause if the answer is yes i don't believe you, how then are you flushing the crap out of the heat exchanger or are you only doing half a job ???

ps before you say anything yes i have done hundreds of powerflushes with my own norstrum equipment.

GSR

......................................

3rdy

yes he did put crystals in afterwoods

tigeress289

It sounds like an air lock. Not the easiest to get rid of sometimes but there are ways. Simple first try is to turn off all rad valves (both sides of the radiator). If you have the simple plastic caps one side,take them off and use an adjustable spanner to turn the valve off. You will see the brass turn off has a square edge for the spanner. One radiator should be left on, normally top of house (bathroom). Run the boiler on constant. Bleed the radiator thats open . Once water flows,shut off. Now let the system run and take your time going round turning each radiator on ,one at a time and bleeding as you go. You mentioned your pressure was OK. Keep checking this and keep it at around 2 bar whilst doing this. Your aim is to clear any air lock. The radiator that was luke warm, should be left to last or first, your choice, as this is the one that is more than likely air locked. Take your time and if need be repeat process, if still same. Personally, I find power flushing can cause more problems than it solves. The old way of flushing is safer. Best of luck

southcoastrgi

tigeress289 wrote: »

It sounds like an air lock. Not the easiest to get rid of sometimes but there are ways. Simple first try is to turn off all rad valves (both sides of the radiator). If you have the simple plastic caps one side,take them off and use an adjustable spanner to turn the valve off. You will see the brass turn off has a square edge for the spanner. One radiator should be left on, normally top of house (bathroom). Run the boiler on constant. Bleed the radiator thats open . Once water flows,shut off. Now let the system run and take your time going round turning each radiator on ,one at a time and bleeding as you go. You mentioned your pressure was OK. Keep checking this and keep it at around 2 bar whilst doing this. Your aim is to clear any air lock. The radiator that was luke warm, should be left to last or first, your choice, as this is the one that is more than likely air locked. Take your time and if need be repeat process, if still same. Personally, I find power flushing can cause more problems than it solves. The old way of flushing is safer. Best of luck

here we go again a little bit of knowledge is a dangerious thing, the old way of powerflushing you mean by putting chemicals in leaving them for a week then draining & re-filling with clean water, that is a way of doing it (although you won't get anywhere near as good a result as from a PROPER powerflush), or do you mean taking one rad off at a time & flushing with a hose pipe, what about the pipework, boiler etc, if you are talking about the former what's the diff between that & connecting a seperate pump ??????? except a powerflush will get rid of more of the crap. if you are going to diy do it which ever way you want but if you are employing someone to do it then the two above suggestions would cost more than a new heating system due to the time involved. do you go to the garage & say i'm not using the air commpressor to pump my tires up i'm gonna use the pump off of my pushbike cause that's the way i've always done it.

you should never bleed rads with the boiler & pump running as it can draw in air rather than get rid of it which will make the situation worse, boiler off pump off bleed rads, so much bad advice on this forum

3rdy

Well the engineer came round fixed the radiator, the TRV was stuck, free'd it up there was the sound of running water which he said was air...checked the boiler out and said there was nothing to cause concern

Told me it can take a while to get rid of air in the system...

bled the rads and the crackling noise stopped


told me to call him if i get anymore problems....

just got to wait and see what happens

Canucklehead

Hi.

In light of the visit I think he's not done a very good job of this.

Why would you still have a sticky TRV and why so much 'air'. All this should have been addressed before he left the first time.

I asked if he missed the rad because it might have had chemical in it and not been fully flushed leading to the problems you describe.

I would not flush a system with a combi boiler (you do have a combi don't you?) as all the dirt from the system will try and circulate through it. Most boilers will have a filter in there somewhere to protect it from this same dirt.

The system water needs testing to see how clean it is. You might need a further flush.

F.A.O. keithgillyon

So yes, I would flush the system from under the boiler using the 22mm f&r . Much less restriction, and then flush the boiler separately,

I am not interested in the slightest in you or what you may or may not do in your job.
Your opinion of me and whatever I might do in my job does not interest me, and will not change my life in any way, shape or form.
I an not interested in a point scoring contest or any other discussion.


Feel free to move on.

GSR.

3rdy

I'm starting to think that too!

shone a bright light in the wifes face and asked her did he ask where all the rads where?

she said no

he missed the radiator because the wife forgot to tell him it was there....it's behind a little cupboard we keep the towels in.


getting concerned now...getting a bit of hydrogen..must be it pops when you light it

he opened up the radiators upstairs and the crackling/popping stopped in the radiator in the back room but then after he'd gone i noticed the radiator in the front room was warm at the top but cold at the bottom...the rad in the hallway was only warm and the pipe leading up into the ceiling was cold again...

got home from work and bled the rads

the one in the shower room had a little bit in
the radiator in the utility room had a tiny amount
nothing from the rad in the front room now it doesn't work properly again
nothing from the hallway rad which only gets hot
nothing from the rad in the back room

upstairs in the back bedroom which is above the boiler had quite a bit
the one in the bathroom had a tiny amount mainly bubbles
same in the middle bedroom and front bedroom
the one on the landing he sorted today had quite a bit in

do you know what might be causing the hydrogen?






i'll call him and ask if he would do it again...

if not i'll just have to keep bleeding until i can afford to get someone else in

3rdy

further up i said i thought he used a fernox inhibitor...he's stuck a sticker on the side of the boiler saying it contains sentinal 100 inhibitor



i've bled some water out of the rads and it is clear..although it does have a slight brown tint to it...has an odour to it that i can only describe as peppery?


someone at work said drain some out into a jar and put a nail in it..if it rusts after a few days then there isn't enough in there/none in?

need to get some litmus paper and test the acidity...where can i buy it from?

wickes...B&Q? places like that?

3rdy

i've bled the rads now that the system has cooled down...some are still giving off bubbles

i've turned the boiler off and will check again in a a while.... would i be right in thinking that with the boiler off the pump won't circulate?

if i get hydrogen from the radiators they either need flushing again or changing?