Virgin Media router/modem/internet problem

spike7451

If the connection is dropping at the modem,then in all likelyhood it is a physical issue.However this isn't something the OP can check.A VM service tech would have to check the cable & fittings as well as the incoming signal strength & the forward/return path.If these are too high,then they can be adjusted by using attenuators or equalisers.One of the other things he'd have to check is for unterminated connections,these allow ingress & egress of noise onto the network which can affect connectivity as well.

jem16

Humphrey10 wrote: »

Nope just me. And there is rarely more than one thing connected to it at once, an iPad or an iPhone.

Have you ever considered it's the iPhone or iPad that's the problem? I have an iPhone that's losing the wireless connection for a bit but the iPad works when the iPhone loses it. All the wired connections also work.

I suppose the TV could be doing stuff, it can connect to the internet, but I don't think it does any downloading in the background - certainly to update the drivers/OS/software (not sure what it's called when it's for a TV) you have to tell it to manually check.

The TV is not connecting to the Internet unless you have physically wired it to your broadband connection. Firmware updates are sent Over The Air (OTA) to your TV.

jayme1

remember when you are changing settings on a router you are supposed to use an ethernet cable, as otherwise if you were using wireless you may be kicked of the router (eg while it is rebooting, or esp if you change any wireless settings) and if there were still instructions the computer should have sent to the router they then won't then get through, and you can end up corrupting/bricking the whole router.

also if you search the internet you will find loads of examples of where it is iDevices that cause the wireless problems on customised firmware versions of routers.

I use a VM D-Link router, when it was on the VM firmware it would 'stall' all the time (could still connect to the router aOK but no web pages could load (exactly like the OP)) I would then have to log into the router and reboot it,
I then flashed the official D-Link firmware and bingo zero issues.

OP I would definitely say the issue is with the router side of your modem, and because it is all built into one unit you cannot fix it by changing the firmware, I would say you have two options:
1. if your modem has a 'Modem Only' mode you can then use your own router which should be far more reliable than VMs
2. you can call up VM and ask for a superhub, because this would give you a new router this may solve your problems, then again it may not, if it doesn't then you will have to do option 1 and use Modem Only mode.

also the next time it happens (you are connected to the router but web pages won't load), log into the router (either on the iPad or a computer it doesn't matter), and if there is a 'reboot' button click it, give it a minuet and see if you can then load web pages.

CrashUK

Try using Wireless G.. Wireless N does not work that well over the same range as Wireless G. Your best bet is Network Cable.

New Router will not help. Network Cable is cheap.

custardy

CrashUK wrote: »

Try using Wireless G.. Wireless N does not work that well over the same range as Wireless G. Your best bet is Network Cable.

New Router will not help. Network Cable is cheap.

The OP has already stated that a cable is old fashioned.
as they say,a cable can't be a back up to a wireless connection
stop making quaint suggestions

gaming_guy

...........

aliEnRIK

stakker wrote: »

Sorry but that is waffle

Does the OP has a power saving mode on the superhub (sorry dont have one as I use my own netgear)

And have a look at your PCs network controller power save option, you can google for that as I cant post links

Perhaps the last 2 or 3 year generation ones are fine, but the netgears AND the Belkin I had were 50/50 touch and go when my traffic management kicked in. How is that 'waffle'?

aliEnRIK

stakker wrote: »

More waffle, how do you get away with it? I suspect you are on POTS and cant handle the the amount of downloads you were creating, so nothing to do with the router but your ISP managing your capping threshold.

I suspect your a regular poster whos too scared to show his real username

Ill explain. Traffic management kicks in. If (like my Draytek) this doesnt matter, then the net still works but slower (OBVIOUSLY). if (like the netgears) when traffic management kicks in it stops the routers (Not always, but around 50/50) from working then we get the 'exact' same symptom as the OP has posted. P2P has also confused virgins policy so people who were playing WOW for example used to get traffic managed.

I know just about everything there is to know about Virgin and what people can and cant get away with

Now - how is any of that waffle?

jayme1

cowat wrote: »

Now go to Wireless Settings

Channel 9

NO don't use channel 9, you are correct that manually selecting a WiFi channel improves performance but it is usually always better to use either channel 1, 6 or 11 because these are the only channels that don't interfere with each other at all, channel 9 steps on channel 6 and 11 and can reduce performance as demonstrated in this picture
Basically unless you live in a block of flats where WiFi networks are everywhere and everyone else is using 1, 6 and 11 it's best to stay away from middle channels.
If you live with no WiFi networks around use any channel you want but I would personally still choose 1, 6 or 11 as then if someone else one day can create two more WiFi networks without interfering with mine, some more info here.
It's like being on a 3 lane motorway and someone is straddling lanes 2 and 3 by choosing channel 9.
(first world problems I know )

roddydogs

? someone resurrects a 6 month old thread?