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New cat owners
Comments
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Thanks for the advise about your experience Rising - always good to hear people tell me how they dealt with their shy cats. We have decided the hall, stairs and landing will be the first place to start them off as there is very little place for them to hide and not be got and also its the only room that hasn't been decorated so we don't really care about the carpet or the walls. plus its central to the house (we are in a terraced house) so they will get use to the noises.
Sorry but that doesn't sound ideal at all.Your new cats will need places to hide, they need to feel secure in their territory, so they make their space as small as possible if frightened. You facilitate that by giving them free reign of a quiet and little used part of your home, initially their territory is just that room. A large cardboard box on it's side with their own bedding in and the opening almost closed is the classic first 'nest'. Some cats also like to retreat to high places, if practical a safe one should be provided.
What do you mean by "not be got"? Nervous cats need to be allowed to come to you not the other way around, don't pick up a new cat unless you absolutely have to (they are in danger). They should be able to explore their initial territory undisturbed, a room with doors leading off in every direction with giants coming and going does not facilitate that. Also they should be able to access their litter tray(s) undisturbed, as cats know toileting is a high risk activity for predators attacking. If they cannot use the litter tray in privacy and safety they will hold it and/ or toilet elsewhere.
Hall stairs and landing likely has an outside door onto it, that is a high risk for escapism. Let them get used to the household noises in their own time, don't force all the noises upon them at once. They will be freaked when they arrive, they would be best in a spare room or dining room, with you going in regularly to sit on the floor - make yourself seem small - and talk to them quietly. If you wish you can leave items of yours (e.g. worn t-shirt) in the room so they get used to your scent too. Don't look directly at them as staring is a threat in cat language, look away or look at them with your eyes almost closed/ slow blinks.
Once they start coming out for a sniff you can stroke if they will allow it, but some nervous cats take days even to emerge from under the bed. After several years my aunt's nervous cat still goes behind her bed whenever there are visitors, even her regular cleaner. With some cats hand feeding smelly treats speeds up matters, others can be tempted with a fishing rod toy, but some just need patience and a Feliway diffuser! Once they appear confident in that room you can leave the door open and let them explore another room or two. Hall and stairs, your bedroom or sitting room depending what is close to the safe room, all other doors should remain closed. Leave all the doors open to their safe room so they can retreat at any time. Eventually they will stop using it of their own accord, as you will be feeding them elsewhere and they will want to be where you are.
As you can see feline behaviour and body language is a whole other ball game! It can be heartbreaking in the first weeks when you desperately want them to love you, but so rewarding once a nervous one gets comfortable.Declutterbug-in-progress.⭐️⭐️⭐️ ⭐️⭐️0 -
We have decided the hall, stairs and landing will be the first place to start them off as there is very little place for them to hide and not be got and also its the only room that hasn't been decorated so we don't really care about the carpet or the walls. plus its central to the house (we are in a terraced house) so they will get use to the noises.
I absolutely 100% agree with everything Fire Fox has said (and we've been known to disagree on some things;)).
They need to be in the quietest room of the house - spare room (assuming you have one as you mentioned buying covers for the "beds"?) or dining room etc. If not, then probably your bedroom is the least inhabited and most quiet place (that's where Smudge had to go as only lived in a 1-bed at the time).
As Fire Fox has said, the hall/landing/stairs are probably the busiest areas of the house with little or no hiding places - which is what they will need to feel secure. They need to be able to get to places where they can "not be got".
Cardboard boxes are an excellent suggestion for hiding places/beds. Mine both have beds (which they do use, unlike some:)), however, I've got a cardboard box tucked behind the sofa with a blanket in and my wee girl can often be found in there. My boy's favourite place is in the wardrobe - so much so, that I've now put an old pillow with a fleecy blanket on top in there! (I leave the door propped open about a foot with a shoe wedged in it so he can easily get in and out).
Both these 2 were hand reared (long story), so even cats who've been used to handling/humans/dogs/noise etc their whole lives and are VERY confident, still often prefer being tucked up somewhere out of the way and where no-one can see them.It can be heartbreaking in the first weeks when you desperately want them to love you, but so rewarding once a nervous one gets comfortable.
Oh boy, is that not just the best feeling in the world!:D I still remember how delighted I was when Smudge eventually "stayed put" when I moved on the sofa and didn't go scurrying away to the security of under the bed!Grocery Challenge £211/£455 (01/01-31/03)
2016 Sell: £125/£250
£1,000 Emergency Fund Challenge #78 £3.96 / £1,000Vet Fund: £410.93 / £1,000
Debt free & determined to stay that way!0 -
Thanks guys, I really hadn't thought about it in that way. I spoke to my husband and we decided to start them in the spare bedroom upstairs and will convert the bed back to a sofa so we can go and sit in there and let them get use to us.
The only issue is that the door doesn't close (old house) - would that be a problem?
Also if we are starting them in just one room where should we feed them?
The plan was to feed them in the kitchen but we don't want to do that yet.
Also if we are staring them in one room where should we put the litter tray (planning on getting an enclosed litter tray).
Your advice and help is definitely appreciated0 -
Thanks guys, I really hadn't thought about it in that way. I spoke to my husband and we decided to start them in the spare bedroom upstairs and will convert the bed back to a sofa so we can go and sit in there and let them get use to us.
The only issue is that the door doesn't close (old house) - would that be a problem?
Also if we are starting them in just one room where should we feed them?
The plan was to feed them in the kitchen but we don't want to do that yet.
Also if we are staring them in one room where should we put the litter tray (planning on getting an enclosed litter tray).
Your advice and help is definitely appreciatedGlad to help as we all learned from others, no doubt you will 'pass it on' in time. Your idea sounds great - maybe use the throws you have bought on your downstairs sofa so that they smell of you, then transfer to the spare room for the cats to use? You need the door to close or you will have escapees and they won't feel safe. Does the door need some wood shaved off or the hinges adjusted or can you tie it shut temporarily? Do you know anyone with DIY skills who you could pay in beer and a homecooked meal? :money:
Everything in one room - bed, toys, litter tray, food and water. Litter tray must not be near food, and ideally water not near either but that may not be possible depending on size of the room. Are the cats used to a hooded litter tray? They may refuse to use it if they are not. You can still buy a hooded one, just leave the hood off until they are settled. If you buy hooded it must be a jumbo tray so have room to turn around whilst digging to Australia! Think about it from their perspective, would you stick your head inside a used covered tray? _pale_ It stinks worse to them than it does to us as they have more sensitive noses. If it has a catflap entrance it will stink even more inside, some cats will refuse to use it.
Longer term you will need two to three trays for two cats; leave the spare room one in situ for as long as possible as that will always be their safe space. Obviously you may need to use your spare room for guests eventually!If you are worried about poop smells a huge amount can be done with good litter and good diet, although don't change these things in the early days. PM me or pop over to Purrsinourhearts if I am not around when you need thoughts on that.
You will be fine, the homechecker should be impressed with all the research you are doing!Declutterbug-in-progress.⭐️⭐️⭐️ ⭐️⭐️0 -
Ok great thank you.
Do you know what in all the time we've lived the house (11 years) i've never looked into why the door doesn't shut!! Just tried it and it will pull close so nothing can get in or out, it just won't close enough for the door latch to meet - should be fine though. We are planning on clearing as much out of the room upstairs as possible as we have been hoarding so there should be lots of room. I love the idea about putting the throws on our sofa downstairs so they smell of us then moving them upstairs - never would have thought of that.
Guests aren't a problem as we have a holiday apartment in the town that every one uses. We have a 3 bed house and our small spare room is an office and the other one (a good size) is a dumping ground (although not for much longer) and my hubby sleeps in there when he is on lates so i don't wake him with the tv, hairdryer and general faffing in the morning
Right I'm off to do more cleaning but will be back later.
Thanks again guys - you're :A's0 -
Wrong place..........sorry0
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Thanks guys, I really hadn't thought about it in that way. I spoke to my husband and we decided to start them in the spare bedroom upstairs and will convert the bed back to a sofa so we can go and sit in there and let them get use to us.
The only issue is that the door doesn't close (old house) - would that be a problem?
Also if we are starting them in just one room where should we feed them?
The plan was to feed them in the kitchen but we don't want to do that yet.
Also if we are staring them in one room where should we put the litter tray (planning on getting an enclosed litter tray).
Your advice and help is definitely appreciated
That sounds absolutely ideal!:D
As Fire Fox suggests, spread out the food, water and litter tray so they're as far away as possible from each other (mine have their water and food together due to space and seem to get on OK although I do find them drinking out the dog's water bowl which is in the bathroom!)
Size of trays is very important - my boy always used to go outside (although I did have a tray indoors) and when the weather was really bad he got really constipated and I couldn't figure out why. It turned out that the tray wasn't big enough for him to get in and turn around:( (even though it was a fairly big one - he is a monster and at last a third bigger than my other cat). It'd obviously never been an issue before as he goes out every day - but wouldn't when there was a couple of feet of snow on the ground (don't blame him!).
I've still never bothered to put the flap on as I'm conscious that this will take up room inside the tray when he goes in.
Oh, boy, did I feel guilty - I went searching around online and got the biggest covered tray I could find http://www.zooplus.co.uk/shop/cats/cat_litter_litter_boxes/hooded_litter_box/132622 and he now happily uses it:D. (Can't believe there's £10 difference depending on what colour tray you want!)Grocery Challenge £211/£455 (01/01-31/03)
2016 Sell: £125/£250
£1,000 Emergency Fund Challenge #78 £3.96 / £1,000Vet Fund: £410.93 / £1,000
Debt free & determined to stay that way!0 -
Well I spoke to the lady from the rescue centre yesterday and they are coming to do the home check on Monday evening so fingers crossed everything goes well.
I will keep you updated and let you know we get on.0 -
Ok great thank you.
Do you know what in all the time we've lived the house (11 years) i've never looked into why the door doesn't shut!! Just tried it and it will pull close so nothing can get in or out, it just won't close enough for the door latch to meet - should be fine though. We are planning on clearing as much out of the room upstairs as possible as we have been hoarding so there should be lots of room. I love the idea about putting the throws on our sofa downstairs so they smell of us then moving them upstairs - never would have thought of that.
There are always a few DIY jobs that never get sorted!Cats can open almost closed doors with their paws (some can even use doorhandles) so it really would be good to get it to close properly. The wood might be warped, build up of layers of paint around the doorframe, the hinges too tight or loose so that the catch is not sitting in the recess. I bet you will feel wonderful when you have finished the clear out, it's so satisfying!
My fingers are crossed for the homecheck.Declutterbug-in-progress.⭐️⭐️⭐️ ⭐️⭐️0 -
Well the room for the cats has been completely cleared out and can't believe how much junk we have thrown out! Also the door now closes. Going to finish our bedroom tomorrow and also clear under the stairs. My hubby will have the job of doing the kitchen which doesn't need much doing as he is off all day and we should then be all ready for the house check. I was saying to my hubby I can't believe how nervous and anxious I am about the check!
One huge bonus of the clear out is that my hubby has finally put away all his light sabre and signed star trek figures which have been out on display for about 6 years and I hate them! Also our 8 years old niece is going to have our enormous keyboard so she can start learning to play it.0
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