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Problem with Valliant Combi Boiler

124

Comments

  • ahll
    ahll Posts: 1,508 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    whereishergar it sounds like you have an electrical fault with the boiler that when you turn it on it causes the fuses to trip in the fuse box. Sorry cant be of more help
    "The time is always right to do what is right"
  • Hi Ahll
    How did you get on or have you not attempted it yet?
  • ahll
    ahll Posts: 1,508 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Hi Susieb1967
    No I havent changed it yet as decided to wait until after the holidays in case I needed a plumber. Thven I came down with a cold n chest infection so waiting until I feel up to it...

    Will keep you posted. Do I take it yours is still working wonderfully ?
    "The time is always right to do what is right"
  • ahll
    ahll Posts: 1,508 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Hi Susieb1967
    I have finally got around to changing the diverta valve in the boiler. I know its been along time but the weather hasnt exactly been good and I needed to do it before the winter arrives(not that we would notice). I didnt it mayself and it was quite easy really. All seems to be working ok I can have the central heating on and the hot water at the sametime....Happy Days
    "The time is always right to do what is right"
  • susieb1967
    susieb1967 Posts: 214 Forumite
    Hi Ahll!!!
    long time no hear!:rotfl:made up that you got it sorted before winter set in-couldn't stand going through all that again come xmas!! me and OH were wondering how you had got in only a couple of weeks ago!did you feel your ears burning?! So glad you sorted it- hope it didnt cost too much and thanks for letting us know:beer:. BTW ours has been super dooper since changing valve ( whispered
    so the boiler doesn't hear me!!!);)
  • I’ve just changed the diverter valve on my Vaillant turbomax combi boiler, it took less than an hour, and shouldn’t be a problem for the average diyer.
    Order yourself a new diverter valve, part no 252457. I got mine from ebay for £38.50 + p&p.
    You must isolate the boiler from the mains before commencing any work.
    Turn off the main cold feed by turning the inline valve on the middle of the five pipes under the boiler, a quarter turn.
    Remove the plug from the top of the diverter valve.
    Drain the water from the boiler by opening the grey pressure release knob, located on the right under the boiler, you should see the pressure guage needle dropping, and probably hear water dripping outside.
    Have a bucket under the boiler for this stage.
    Gently undo the two nuts on the diverter valve, until they move away from the body of the valve, this is where a little bit of water will probably run out of the valve. (and into your bucket!)
    Remove the spring clip from the diverter valve and keep safe. Using a slight twisting motion, gently pull the diverter valve away from the heat exchanger, (the sardine can thing).
    Remove the o-rings from either the ends of the pipes or the valve, they can stick to either. Gently clean the ends of the pipes with a scourer or similar being careful not to get any debris in the pipes.
    Fitting the new valve
    Push the new valve onto the heat exchanger and line up the valve with the pipes.
    Carefully insert the o-rings over the ends of the pipes and turn the nuts to catch the thread, this may take a couple of goes. Replace the spring clip and nip up the nuts.
    Open the cold feed inline valve and re-pressurise the boiler. It will make a bit of a gurgling noise, let the system settle for a few minutes.
    Power up the boiler , and let it settle.
    Check the central heating and hot water.
    The wife should be off your back at this point!!
    Hope this helps someone……
    If you need pictures let me know and I'll email them
    Dave
  • ahll wrote: »
    I think I might have a problem with my 4yr old Valliant combi boiler. The hotwater seems to be hot one minute and cold the next ! It seems if you reset the boiler (turn it off then on) then the water seems to be hot until the next time.

    Can anyone tell my what the possible problem is and/or how I may sort it out ?

    Its the same problem I had four years ago. Its called the divertor valve in the boiler. A little rubber ball sticks in the valve, thats what causes the problem. cost me about £50 to get fixed by Homeserve at the time. My vaillaint is now 10 years old and not had it serviced for three years now, scary eh? I think I will find a boilerman to service it.
    Mortgage Free 2016Work Part Time:DHouse Hunting In France 2023
  • Hi Guys,

    Sorry to digg up an old thread, but I have a similar problem. My Boiler is a vaillant 828e tubomax.

    It was first installed December 2000. After 5 years of service in October 2005 (as the heating went back on) we started getting no hot water but our radiators would heat up instead. Called out our installer 30 minutes later £120 lighter I had a new diverter valve. All has been good since.

    However this week October 2009 as the heating went back on again, we are having similar problems. This time we will sometimes get hot water after the CH has been on and on other occasions we wouldn't (the rads heat up). This can be resolved by resetting the boiler (by pressing the flame button or by turning it on and off). It appears to be if we dont request hot water for a little while after the CH has gone off it tends to work, and as far as I have noticed we get hot water from the taps when the CH is on most of the time. Could this be a diverter valve on its way out again? I have read around via google and it appears to be a common problem with this particular series of Vaillant boilers. One individual was onto his 4th diverter in 9-10 years.

    I would appreciate any guidance from any plumbers and the like on this fabulous site.

    Many Thanks,
    Proff.
    Show me the money
  • Have had problems with my Turbomax 828E - no hot water or heating. BG engineer came out today and replaced the pump and cleaned the 'cold water pressure switch'. All this is covered by insurance.
    He then advised me that the 'cold water pressure switch' would only last 6 months unless I had a Magnaclean fitted at a cost of £250.55!
    I bled the radiators myself and the water discharged was very clean.
    2 questions I need answering:
    Shouldn't the engineer have replaced this pressure switch instead of just cleaning it if it was going to cause problems again?
    Is he or BG using scare tactics to get their hands on my money?

    Many thanks.
    II
  • If the switch just needed cleaning then no he should not of changed it. How he would Know it will only last 6 months? The answer to that is yes he is using scare tactics as he gets a bonus from British gas for extra work done like magna cleans and powerflushes.
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